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06-28-2012, 03:36 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Name: Duke
Trailer: '95 Scamp 16
Arkansas
Posts: 15
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Sway Bar Bent Plate
While backing my Scamp '16 into its spot next to our house. I turned too sharply and bent the "plate" that attaches the mini bar where the sway bar attaches. It bent so much that it sheered one of the connection bolts.
After getting the Scamp in, I was able to disconnect and bend the plate enough to get the sway bar back on if I wanted to. My question is: Is it safe to keep towing? The main ball doesn't appear to be damaged.
I'm supposed to head out tomorrow to KC (about a 4-hour trip for us). I guess I could buy another hitch and go without the sway bar this trip. But I've liked having the sway bar back there, it makes me a feeling of added security to be hitched up in more than one place. Any advice would be appreciated.
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06-28-2012, 04:25 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Name: jim
Trailer: 2022 Escape19 pulled by 2014 Dodge Ram Hemi Sport
Pennsylvania
Posts: 6,710
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I'd get a new one, another model that will not hit. Once metal is bent, I feel it has been compromised.
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06-28-2012, 05:34 PM
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#3
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Moderator
Name: RogerDat
Trailer: 2010 Scamp 16
Michigan
Posts: 3,744
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008
I'd get a new one, another model that will not hit. Once metal is bent, I feel it has been compromised.
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Plus one on that.
If it happened once it's probably going to happen again unless you get a different plate/equipment.
When that plate is taking strain it's to keep your trailer from getting out of control, not something you really want to do with compromised metal.
I thought I read someplace that you generally had to take most of these anti-sway bars off to back up? Think it might have been this forum but not sure.
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06-28-2012, 06:06 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Trailer: 92 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 11,756
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I agree with the others once bent its probable going to bend again.
Duke have no idea what you are towing the trailer with but if the tow and trailer are correctly matched you really shouldnt need the sway bar for a 16' or smaller trailer if the trailer is loaded correctly. I have towed a 16' thousands of miles without one with no sway issues. So I would just go without it.
Roger I seem to recall it mentioned that the sway control needs to be removed prior to back up here as well..... suspect the OP just found out why that is. :-)
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06-28-2012, 06:24 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Name: jim
Trailer: 2022 Escape19 pulled by 2014 Dodge Ram Hemi Sport
Pennsylvania
Posts: 6,710
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I had assumed the op had taken the sway off and it was the plate that hit the frame?
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06-28-2012, 06:27 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Trailer: Toyota Sunrader and 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 975
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I also towed a 16" Scamp for many miles without a sway bar.
If you NEED a sway control you have a serious problem that needs to be corrected immediately.
Sway bars are a band aid for a problem.
I've been towing all sorts of trailers for close to 50 years and have never needed a sway control.
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06-28-2012, 09:04 PM
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#7
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Junior Member
Name: Duke
Trailer: '95 Scamp 16
Arkansas
Posts: 15
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Thanks to all for the replies.
Just to provide more info, my tow is a Honda Ridgeline. We got the Scamp in March and the previous owner gave me the sway bar with the camper. He said he never used it, and he was getting the Scamp 13 and didn't feel like it was necessary. Not wanting a nice piece of equipment to go to waste, I had the mini ball installed when I had some other work done.
I've towed it without the sway bar before that, and didn't notice it swaying any. I just went and picked up another hitch tonight. I'm gonna go without the sway bar tomorrow, and it it does alright, I don't think I'll put the sway bar back on.
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06-28-2012, 09:46 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Trailer: Casita
Posts: 145
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swaybar plate
see attached
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06-28-2012, 11:19 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Name: Russ
Trailer: Scamp 16' side dinette, Airstream Safari 19'
California
Posts: 588
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Mild steel is pretty forgiving for being able to be bent back into it's original position if not bent too far. Your bend looks like a candidate for straightening to me. As another poster commented, sway bars are a bandaid covering for another issue with the dynamics of the rig. Most likely covering up for not enough forward weight bias, or a tow rig with out good lateral suspension control. Your Ridgline probably is well controlled, and if your trailer is loaded properly you won't need the swaybar. It wouldn't hurt to run it since you own it, so pound it flat and use it. The forces required to bend it were caused by abuse, and much higher than the metal would see in normal use. It likely won't bend again unless you can't achive enough flatness after straightening. The flatness gives it the strength to work. An anvil and 8 lb. hammer will do the job. Disassemble the hitch before beating. A big hammer can give a man a lot of satisfaction.
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06-28-2012, 11:45 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Name: Russ
Trailer: Scamp 16' side dinette, Airstream Safari 19'
California
Posts: 588
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Also, I noticed the lower diagram is for another bolt on stabilizer mount that is different than the one in your photo above. The bolt on design is really not the greatest in function. It is required to pinch against the sides of your ball mount. If the slot is slightly loose in fit the plate could rotate back and forth which would create some clunkiing noises as the trailer swayed. It could also possibly unscrew the trailer ball nut. A weld on mount would be much better, and could be made of 1/2" thick steel. No worries then, unless jacknifed. As I remember the pivot point of the forward stabilizer mount should be mounted in front of the trailer ball. Yours appears to be behind the ball a little. Perhaps the plate is mounted up side down?
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06-29-2012, 09:07 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2004 13 ft Scamp Custom Deluxe
Posts: 8,520
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I have a welded tab on one ball mount and another with the bolt on adapter like shown in LKGRay's photo. Both are excellent and rock stable.
Friction anti-sway is a great addition to a properly prepared towing set-up on these small fiberglass trailers. "Need" (in this case) is purely subjective, but a friction anti-sway certainly is not a band-aid and is not intended as such.
Properly used it is an effective and pleasant accessory which enhances overall towing performance.
I have never seen anything like the bent one in Duke's post, but I can recommend the one in LKGray's post which is clearly a better design.
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06-29-2012, 12:35 PM
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#12
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Moderator
Name: RogerDat
Trailer: 2010 Scamp 16
Michigan
Posts: 3,744
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Sway control always struck me as cheap insurance, not a band aid for bad load/configuration. Same with trailer brakes, even if not "required" both provide an extra measure of safety when towing.
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06-29-2012, 01:43 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Name: jim
Trailer: 2022 Escape19 pulled by 2014 Dodge Ram Hemi Sport
Pennsylvania
Posts: 6,710
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How about "cheap bandaid insurance"!! Some trailers are prone to sway regardless of load and sway control may make the towing more enjoyable. Other trailers, not prone to sway, can be improperly loaded, thereby causing sway.
I think the issue should be addressed by eliminating the need for sway by proper loading and then install sway control for those "on the road" incidents that may arise causing sway.
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06-29-2012, 02:18 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Trailer: 92 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 11,756
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RogerDat
Sway control always struck me as cheap insurance, not a band aid for bad load/configuration. Same with trailer brakes, even if not "required" both provide an extra measure of safety when towing.
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As Joy pointed out sway can happen on any trailer under the right conditions and Roger your probable correct that the use of one on a trailer that does not normally have a sway issue is just as you say added insurance &/or perhaps peace of mind for that one time when all the stars are aligned and it happens. But as others have said if its being used because the trailer does have a sway issue without it on, then I have to agree with others its nothing more than a band aid to a much bigger problem.
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06-29-2012, 04:24 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2004 13 ft Scamp Custom Deluxe
Posts: 8,520
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008
How about "cheap bandaid insurance"!! Some trailers are prone to sway regardless of load and sway control may make the towing more enjoyable. Other trailers, not prone to sway, can be improperly loaded, thereby causing sway.
I think the issue should be addressed by eliminating the need for sway by proper loading and then install sway control for those "on the road" incidents that may arise causing sway.
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Mine is installed because it simply tightens the handling of the trailer, I'm sure we would be fine without it, just as we could tow without upgraded tires or suspension mods on the Tow Vehicle, but why?
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06-29-2012, 05:19 PM
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#16
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Moderator
Name: RogerDat
Trailer: 2010 Scamp 16
Michigan
Posts: 3,744
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008
....I think the issue should be addressed by eliminating the need for sway by proper loading and then install sway control for those "on the road" incidents that may arise causing sway.
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Exactly the approach I would suggest. And in line with Carols comments.
Load then road test to get a known good baseline first. So it really is "extra" insurance. I have nothing against duct tape and bailing wire fixes... just not for the parachute.
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07-01-2012, 02:26 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Name: Russ
Trailer: Scamp 16' side dinette, Airstream Safari 19'
California
Posts: 588
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Ok I was wrong callling the sway control bar a "bandaid", as a baindaid would generally mean a temporary fix, or quick repair. You could use the sway bar to permanently slow down the effects of a badly loaded trailer. It would be a poor solution though. My trailer came with a sway control bar, so I welded the mount to the draw bar and use it when I tow. I have towed with and without it and have to say the trailer is less busy with the bar attached. The slight inconvenience of hooking it up is minimal. If I didn't own it I would not run out and buy one, as the rig behaves well without it when loaded properly. Do I like it? Yes. Do I need it? No. I find that if I make an abrupt lane change the trailer will wag a little after finishing the lane change when not using the bar. With the bar the trailer settles in faster. The wag could be caused by tire sidewall roll on the trailer and tow vehicle and self corrects itself after two or three cycles.
Russ
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