sway bars, equalizer hitch - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 11-09-2008, 09:46 PM   #15
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Francine, I merged your two threads since they are so similar.
thanks Roger - I think it will benefit her and the rest of us interested in this topic for it to be one thread...

as an EDIT to my post above (couldn't see how to actually edit it?) I wanted to add that although I referenced a couple of 3rd party links to encourage research regarding sway, ALWAYS read such info with care and be sure to compare what you know and what your vehicle/trailer manufacturers say to do against any suggestions/definitions offered anywhere else. A member with a keen eye noted that a few of the definitions in the ProPride page aren't quite completely accurate and a couple others are plain mis-leading, perhaps un-intentionally, but still so.

Continue your quest for safety, safely.
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Old 11-12-2008, 11:15 AM   #16
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thanks Roger - I think it will benefit her and the rest of us interested in this topic for it to be one thread...

as an EDIT to my post above (couldn't see how to actually edit it?) I wanted to add that although I referenced a couple of 3rd party links to encourage research regarding sway, ALWAYS read such info with care and be sure to compare what you know and what your vehicle/trailer manufacturers say to do against any suggestions/definitions offered anywhere else. A member with a keen eye noted that a few of the definitions in the ProPride page aren't quite completely accurate and a couple others are plain mis-leading, perhaps un-intentionally, but still so.

Continue your quest for safety, safely.

Thanks everyone, turns out the guys that sold me the trailer had an equilizer hitch and one anti sway bar, I towed it home and it worked perfectly. I really think putting a brake controller on this car made a HUGE difference. Anyway, it felt very comfortable and less bouncy than my old set up. The trailer is now at a tow hitch place where they are making sure everything works perfectly together and doing some other work on the trailer. Ah, my second home is back.
Francine
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Old 11-12-2008, 12:48 PM   #17
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Keep in mind that one weakness in having an RV shop or hitch place do the set-up is that they are usually working with the trailer empty, rather than loaded for the road.

I suggest that you ask about taking it by one time with everything packed in and the various tanks full (LP, water heater, fresh water) because that's how it will be driven most of the time.

Or, better, you can download the Owner's Manual for the WDH and learn how to do it yourself -- It is not rocket science and the directions are pretty clear -- Just takes some time.

Also, when you have it loaded for the road, take it to a scale and weigh it (with WDH disconnected) and the TV to ensure that the tongue weight is correct -- If the TW is too light, you will have problems getting the WDH right.

If I were doing what you are doing, I would do the following:

1. Load TV and Egg as if for a typical trip, with food, clothing, etc., water and LP, plus passengers.

2. Take it to a commercial scale, disconnect WDH and weigh each axle. If you have the time at the scale, it's a good idea to weigh each WHEEL of the Egg to ensure the side-to-side distribution is roughly even.

3. Pull trailer onto one platform of the scale (they are often multi-platform) with the TV off the platform but the tongue jack over the platform. Open the coupler and jack the tongue until the ball is loose in the coupler -- The weight obtained is the total weight of Egg and subtracting the axle weight of Egg will yield the TW.

4. Do the math to see that the TW is about 10-12% of total Egg. Move stuf around inside to get proper TW -- Remember that keeping stuf vertically and horizontally as close as possible to the axle will help greatly in reducing trailer sway -- This means canned goods, for example, do NOT go in overhead cabinets.

5. Once everything is in balance, follow the instructions to adjust the WDH so the TV sinks evenly and the trailer is nose level or slightly nose down (NOT nose up).

6. Being a curious & cautious person, I would then reweigh each axle with the WDH connected to ensure I didn't exceed the limits for any axle (GAWR on TV door jamb and Egg tongue sticker). This would be more important with a BulgeMobile trailer than our relatively small ones, of course.

I know this all sounds very tedious, but you really only have to do it the one time, then you mark the WDH's chain links and just hook it up after that.

Commercial scales at truck stops are busy places, so for this multiple weighing stuf, I would seek out a scale at town garbage, rock & gravel store, bulk feed store, etc.
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Old 11-13-2008, 01:32 AM   #18
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Hi Francine - and thank goodness your Guardian Angel was on duty in August!

Here's a link to an RV driving school - they also teach at the Life On Wheels seminars (well, taught, since LOW is said to be closing after the passing of it's founder). Anyway, we've always thought this would be a good investment if we got a new RV:

http://www.rvschool.com/index.htm

Hope you find the info useful, and congrats on getting our 'new' Bigfoot safely home. Take care, L 'n D
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Old 11-14-2008, 12:10 PM   #19
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Hi Francine - and thank goodness your Guardian Angel was on duty in August!

Here's a link to an RV driving school - they also teach at the Life On Wheels seminars (well, taught, since LOW is said to be closing after the passing of it's founder). Anyway, we've always thought this would be a good investment if we got a new RV:

http://www.rvschool.com/index.htm

Hope you find the info useful, and congrats on getting our 'new' Bigfoot safely home. Take care, L 'n D
H.,

That link is to an RV driving school and RV in this case means motor home. I doubt this would do much good for someone towing a travel trailer.


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