Take Off Shell for Axle Replace't ? - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 03-02-2007, 03:56 PM   #15
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Name: Joe
Trailer: 1989 17 ft Bigfoot Deluxe / 2004 Ford Ranger
Ontario
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Brian, right now any improvement would be good enough...with the suspension "frozen" on the road side of the Trillium,it was always a contest when we first opened the door at the campsite after a long drive, to see whch item had "travelled" the farthest, from where it was stowed on board when leaving home !!!

Joe
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Old 03-02-2007, 08:05 PM   #16
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Trailer: 92 Bigfoot 13.5 ft / 05 Freestar
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Our '73 Trillium is up for an axle replacement this Spring. Apparently, the axle was welded to the frame at the factory.Is it common practice to remove the shell from the frame, to prevent damaging it from cutting off/welding- back -on operations?
I'm looking at a #9 Torflex axle from Dexter, with NO Brakes, but with flanges installed, for potential future brake installation.
Does a new Torflex axle give adequate damping of bouncing, without shocks?

Joe/Peterborough/Ontario
I had two 75 13' Trilliums last summer, one with and one without brakes. The one that had brakes had a furnace wich may have made the total weight high enough to require brakes. When I sold the one with brakes a guy drove 3 hours to buy mine(he could've bought one with no brakes 5 minutes from home). He wanted reserve braking for a trip through the Rockies. I made one panic stop while towing the one with brakes and that was enough to convince me they were a great investment. I was surprised no one mentioned brake size to you. You will likely find you have a choice between 7'" and 10". I strongly suggest you choose 10", because I've found the 7" aren't very effective.
Bill
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Old 03-02-2007, 08:45 PM   #17
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Name: Joe
Trailer: 1989 17 ft Bigfoot Deluxe / 2004 Ford Ranger
Ontario
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You're right, Bill, the one time you make that panic stop...you are greatfull for having installed brakes on the trailer.
...also, good advice on going to the 10" brakes, over 7 inchers. I had not heard that the 7" brakes are not very effective.
Thanx,
Joe
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Old 03-03-2007, 12:39 PM   #18
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Name: Brian
Trailer: Boler (B1700RGH) 1979
Alberta
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I have my brake controller adjusted so the trailer brakes in proper proportion to the tug, so they normally work well and are valuable in any stop. At the hard-braking extreme, I know they just won't apply enough force, because during brake setup I tried applying full power to them and they didn't lock the tires (on dry pavement). Since the tires are far from racing specials, I'm sure it's not a matter of too much traction... it's too little brake (drums, shoes, or magnet mechanism).

My Boler has the 10"x2.25" drums typical of 3500 lb axles (it's twice the weight of a typical 13' egg), so the upgrade would be to 12" drums... but I think it's essentially the same situation as having the 7" drums on a 1500 lb trailer and wanting the 10" drums.

For perspective, a car with a rear axle carrying 1500 lb would not have anything as small as 7" drums. I assume that current trailer brake sizing is just the sizing of the 1960's, when performance standards were lower and brake controllers were crude (so lock-up was a potential problem).
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Old 03-03-2007, 04:50 PM   #19
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Name: Joe
Trailer: 1989 17 ft Bigfoot Deluxe / 2004 Ford Ranger
Ontario
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Brian:
What do you mean by"proper proportion to tug" when adjusting the trailer braking ?
We've towed the Trillium with both our Silverado pickup, as well as our Subaru Forester; the latter has no brake controller, the pickup does, for when we tow our 22'Terry Resort fifth wheel. If I understand you correctly, and presuming I install brakes on the Trill, then the same controller setting I have just used for the Fiver,coming off a trip, will not be correct for the Trill, if I hooked up to it, right after having unhooked from the Fiver?

Question:While towing your Boler, do you notice any significant brake drag from the trailer brakes if you manually apply them with the lever on the controller?

Joe
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Old 03-04-2007, 12:07 PM   #20
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Joseph You don't need to remove the shell to install a new axel. I removed the axel from my 19 ft fifth wheel, added 2 inches to the frame, and reinstalled the axel, without even unloading the trailer. I did this so I could pull it with a bigger, taller truck, got the idea form Scamp.

I put a cut off wheel in a disc grinder and cut out the welds, very simple. The tricky part is the vertical and over head welds. I found 6011 rods work best for these applications. I am a amature at this and it worked great, a comercial weld shop would be no problem at all. The hard part is making sure your axel is square to your frame so it doesn't dog track.

As for the torsion axel, it is the easiest way to go. The ride (bounce) isn't quite as smooth, but longevity is better and is much easier to install. I believe all the new Scamps come with these axels.

Mr. Renee
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Old 03-04-2007, 01:21 PM   #21
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Trailer: Boler (B1700RGH) 1979
Alberta
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What do you mean by"proper proportion to tug" when adjusting the trailer braking ?
I mean that the trailer does a share of the braking work roughly in proportion to the load on its axle, so braking with the trailer is about like braking with no trailer, but while carrying cargo in the tug similar in weight to the trailer's tongue weight. You'll never determine that exactly, but the general idea is the tug isn't being pushed significantly by the trailer, and on the other hand the trailer isn't acting like an anchor to slow the tug.

This assumes a proportional controller. With a timer-based controller, the amount of trailer braking has nothing to do with how quickly you are losing speed, so there is no hope of well-proportioned braking.

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If I understand you correctly, and presuming I install brakes on the Trill, then the same controller setting I have just used for the Fiver,coming off a trip, will not be correct for the Trill, if I hooked up to it, right after having unhooked from the Fiver?
If the two settings were the same, it would just be by coincidence. The setting is determined by the effectiveness of the brakes (how hard they brake for a given voltage) and the mass of the trailer. Even the same trailer will need different settings with different amounts of cargo, but in a travel trailer that's probably not a big deal. It has nothing to do with the tug.

I only have one trailer with brakes, so I can't provide my own experience with this type of change.

Quote:
Question:While towing your Boler, do you notice any significant brake drag from the trailer brakes if you manually apply them with the lever on the controller?
Absolutely. The details depend on the controller, but usually moving the manual lever all the way applies the brakes as hard as in whatever the controller maker considers a "maximum effort" stop. Applying the trailer brakes that hard on a trailer half the weight of the tug should stop the whole rig at about one-third of deceleration of a panic stop - I'd call that significant. Mine don't work quite that well, because the 10" brakes just can't do it.
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Old 03-04-2007, 03:42 PM   #22
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Name: Joe
Trailer: 1989 17 ft Bigfoot Deluxe / 2004 Ford Ranger
Ontario
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Renee and Brian

Thanx for the responses...
Brian, I think the "fog"is starting to clear,on the brakes issue, and I may just go for brakes after all...10 inchers, that is. Can't hurt the resale value down the road, eh ?
C'mon Spring!!! This Ontario Winter is beginning to wear on me !!!
G'bye fer now,
Joe
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Old 03-04-2007, 06:52 PM   #23
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Here's a link to a graph comparing leaf to torsion damping:

Al-Ko PDF

Frederick,

Most places don't write tickets to out of towners whose automotive stuf meets the requirements of their home place of registration, so if you were to expect a problem, get something from home that says your system is OK, like a print of the pertinent law.
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Old 03-05-2007, 01:32 PM   #24
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Trailer: Boler (B1700RGH) 1979
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...Most places don't write tickets to out of towners whose automotive stuf meets the requirements of their home place of registration, so if you were to expect a problem, get something from home that says your system is OK, like a print of the pertinent law.
While reciprocity is great for things like lights and licenses, it doesn't always apply. BC has signs that the border specifically stating that recreational double trailers (e.g. boat behind fifth-wheel) are not allowed, because they are in Alberta - no exceptions for visitors.

I still don't think the Fiber Stream brakes are an issue at all, both because they are not obviously visible (like a double trailer rig), and because the trailer is probably light enough to avoid a legal requirement anyway.
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