Thank God for safety chains! - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-27-2012, 11:49 PM   #29
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Name: Mike
Trailer: Scamp 13
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New Scamp 13s have 2". And yes, the online manual for the Scamp site is outdated. I had to verify before I went to pick ours up in early July. Was also told manual and website for Scamp are currently being updated. Honestly, doing business with Scamp is a step back in time ... mostly refreshing, but sometimes a bit frustrating and quirky. Kind of like Hare's Country Store was in my old home town. No complaints about their product though; simple, functional, practical, time-tested.
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Old 08-28-2012, 02:06 AM   #30
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Does anyone here know if there is even a 1-7/8" coupler on the market designed to accept a vertical jack?
Don't think so, Floyd.

But I have one as I had mine modified to accept a vertical jack.
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Old 08-28-2012, 09:06 AM   #31
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whew

I'm glad your chains held. I've seen chains on some trailers that are so thin they would have failed/broken under this kind of force/pressure. Slightly heavier chain then you think you need is good insurance.
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Old 08-28-2012, 11:16 AM   #32
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Would I be right to assume that using both safety chains and Equalizing Bars that my risk is not as high.
Yes, if you examine the WDH and observe how it applies weight/tensions you can see how it (as a result of design) tends to hold the tongue/ball together.
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Old 08-28-2012, 11:18 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by Joy A View Post
Don't think so, Floyd.

But I have one as I had mine modified to accept a vertical jack.
Like this?...
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Old 08-28-2012, 11:51 AM   #34
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I just talked with Scamp a few minutes ago.
I can confirm what I said earlier. Scamp 13's are built with 2" couplers.
Any Scamp 13 with a factory built vertical tongue jack is in fact a 2" coupler.
If you have any doubt, please check your ball and coupler before your next hook-up to see that they match.
If you look at mine you can see that the jack is behind the coupler and not through the flange of the coupler it'self. This is a modification which I did aftermarket. Mine is prefire and has a 1-7/8" coupler with a smaller flange.

Joy has a similar mod which, like mine, is not to be construed as implying a 2" coupler.

The brochure, website, and manuals are under review and new versions are expected to come with the new year.
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Old 08-28-2012, 01:04 PM   #35
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Additional tips

Besides jacking the tongue up to test the coupler/ball locking, we also install a lock in the locking lever. This insures one of us has actually locked it down and that no one can fool with it when we're stopped.

Ginny and I each have responsibility for all parts of the tongue/coupler/lock/chains/break-away switch/anti-sway bar.

We used to grease the ball/coupler interface but now we give it a spray with silicon. It seems to work fine and keeps the grease off us and our clothes.

I also occasionally coat the contacts of the 7 pin plug with contact grease to insure continual good contact.
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Old 08-30-2012, 12:41 PM   #36
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Correct ball size like Floyd mentioned is always a first check with a new trailer. I have seen a couple instances where the wrong size was used.

When hooking up you can have the ball slightly to one side, or slightly ahead of the hitch, and give the tongue a slight shove once you have weight on the ball to set it in place. You should never have the ball back at all from its final resting spot as you lower the tongue, or you risk it not connecting properly when you drop the weight on the closing mechanism in the coupler.

Adjusting is really easy the way I do it. Pull the hitch from the vehicle receiver and close the greased ball into the hitch, and feel for any play. It should move freely, but have no play at all. To adjust, leave the ball closed in the hitch and tighten the nut on the coupler just until the ball tightens up in the coupler, but it is still able to move freely in its full range. If it binds at all, just back off on the nut a bit. Open and close the hitch a few times to confirm adjustment. This is an easy 10 minute adjustment that should be done at a minimum of once a year, dependent upon towing mileage.

Keeping the ball lightly greased will limit the wear, and make the towing easier. I just keep the hitch locked in coupler when not towing.
Went and checked my coupler today. It is not adjustable. Raz
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Old 08-30-2012, 12:52 PM   #37
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Went and checked my coupler today. It is not adjustable. Raz
Thanks interesting! Would it be possible to post a photo of your coupler?
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Old 08-30-2012, 01:12 PM   #38
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My coupler does not adjust either.
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Old 08-30-2012, 03:37 PM   #39
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Thanks interesting! Would it be possible to post a photo of your coupler?
This is a typical kit which includes the internal parts of the coupler.
The nut on the bottom is the adjustment.
Look Here...

Compare Coupler Repair vs Coupler Latch Repair | etrailer.com
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Old 08-30-2012, 03:59 PM   #40
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Some are adjustable and some are not depends on what the manufacture used mine is an Atwood wrap around.
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Old 08-30-2012, 04:00 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by floyd View Post
This is a typical kit which includes the internal parts of the coupler.
The nut on the bottom is the adjustment.
Look Here...

Compare Coupler Repair vs Coupler Latch Repair | etrailer.com
Yup Floyd thats the type I am use to but we have two people saying they cant adjust theirs...... how is that?
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Old 08-30-2012, 05:06 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carol H

Thanks interesting! Would it be possible to post a photo of your coupler?
Yup
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