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Old 11-13-2012, 08:37 PM   #1
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Tongue jack modification

With the front storage box and dual propane set up, there is little room on the Escape 19' tongue for the jack to be moved. The jack handle catches my tow tailgate and keeps me from completely opening the back of the truck. I thought of 6" hitch extender but that can create unsafe towing. I thought of a top mount jack handle but the propane tanks too high. Side swing will not work either.
If I can remove the handle then all is good. Has anyone modified their jack handle to allow more clearance. I have searched for custom jacks but can not find any. Thanks for any help
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Old 11-13-2012, 08:43 PM   #2
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I've seen pictures of a mod where the handle was cut off and a small piece was welded on, which accepted a socket powered by a cordless drill. Maybe something like that?
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Old 11-13-2012, 08:44 PM   #3
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I'd prefer a supplier as I do not have welding skills, but that is on the board.
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Old 11-13-2012, 09:55 PM   #4
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I was able to rotate my side mount to clear my new tongue box. I only had to modify one hole.

If that's not possible then have a look at winch handles for sailboat winches. All that would be needed to make it work is a socket to be welded onto the short shaft left after cutting off the existing handle.

It's a very simple welding job and would only take a few minutes. It wouldn't be a big buck job to have a welding shop do it.

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Old 11-13-2012, 10:06 PM   #5
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Jim, I would go for an extension maybe 6" extension or less. With the suspension bags you installed in you TV you should be fine. Adding a little air will also raise your rear end a little creating more gate clearance. My Pilot clears my 19' with a really tall electric tongue jack but is set up differently...explained on the other forum..
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Old 11-14-2012, 04:16 PM   #6
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With out seeing the set up I can't give you firm ideas, but there are a couple of options I can think of. If your jack has a folding handle you could drill out the pivot point and replace it with a nut and bolt or hitch pin used on tractors and such for attaching implements.

The other option would be to look for a folding jack the folds fore and aft with a folding handle. You can get them with or with out feet/wheel and the fold along the frame axis. They can be mounted in board or out board of the frame rails.

This may work for you Bulldog Topwind Weld-On Swivel Jack 5000 lb the handle swivels and you can still us the jack with handle perfectly up right, though you do loose some leverage and the jack folds up out of the way when in tow.
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Old 11-14-2012, 04:41 PM   #7
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With the Escape 19' there is no room for a bolt on jack, it has to be an A frame tongue jack with either a top or front handle set up. the issue with top are the propane tanks limit you to only 1/2 turns, this gets old real fast. The bolt head replacement I think is the best option right now. I have called several jack manufacturers and question their inability to make a product that works when you are hitched up to your tow vehicle. Either a taller top wind that misses the propane or a removable handle like what they use on cargo trailers. Again it is the engineers that design but not use the product issue.
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Old 11-14-2012, 05:08 PM   #8
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I think you my have just solved your problem, I bet you could order one of the utility trailer jacks and have it installed, if that is the route you want to go, provided it will let you do what you would like. I hear you on the engineers though. Some times they give you real head scratchers.
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Old 11-14-2012, 10:22 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
With the front storage box and dual propane set up, there is little room on the Escape 19' tongue for the jack to be moved. The jack handle catches my tow tailgate and keeps me from completely opening the back of the truck. I thought of 6" hitch extender but that can create unsafe towing. I thought of a top mount jack handle but the propane tanks too high. Side swing will not work either.
If I can remove the handle then all is good. Has anyone modified their jack handle to allow more clearance. I have searched for custom jacks but can not find any. Thanks for any help
Look here...
This simple mod can be operated with the handle shown, a battery drill, or even a rachet.
Notice that the jack is a side crank,type, which is as readily available as a front crank. The handle was simply removed(not cut) and replaced with a piece of drillrod and a nut(could use a shoulder bolt). This can be done with a hacksaw and a hand drill.
Another choice would be to switch to an electric tongue jack.
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June 2009 112.jpg   DSCF0225.JPG  

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Old 11-14-2012, 11:06 PM   #10
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where does one obtain a drill rod and a nut, isn't there a gear inside the little gear box?
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Old 11-14-2012, 11:41 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
where does one obtain a drill rod and a nut, isn't there a gear inside the little gear box?
Jim, I don't have the problem you have with tailgate interference and installed an electric jack but it is really tall. I wanted it for the Equal-I-Zer WDH so it has a 19" stroke. If you are going to consider an electric jack remember that although the handle goes away the motor drive sits on top and raises the overall height quite a bit. You may trade one interference problem for another. I will take a picture of my setup for you tomorrow evening. It may help. ...Steve
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Old 11-30-2012, 03:38 PM   #12
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I finally got my new jack with a removable handle.
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Old 11-30-2012, 10:47 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
I finally got my new jack with a removable handle.
Now, remove the nut, drill a small hole in the handle where the nut was, install a flat washer and a hairpin clip...Viola! instant R&R for the handle! Whaddaya think?
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Old 12-01-2012, 08:02 AM   #14
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Exactly what I was planning, surprised that more companies do not offer this.
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Old 12-01-2012, 04:06 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by floyd View Post
Look here...
This simple mod can be operated with the handle shown, a battery drill, or even a rachet.
Notice that the jack is a side crank,type, which is as readily available as a front crank. The handle was simply removed(not cut) and replaced with a piece of drillrod and a nut(could use a shoulder bolt). This can be done with a hacksaw and a hand drill.
Another choice would be to switch to an electric tongue jack.

Floyd,
Do you have any pictures as to how it is attached to the inside of the jack? I would love to change mine to this type to use with a battery drill.
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Old 12-01-2012, 06:19 PM   #16
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Floyd,
Do you have any pictures as to how it is attached to the inside of the jack? I would love to change mine to this type to use with a battery drill.
Below is a photo which I just took showing the jack head with the cover removed.
You can see the ring gear in the base of the gearbox with the pinion gear to the right. On the shoulder of the pinion gear (just to the right of the teeth) is a role-pin. (the little brown thing at the bottom).
You knock out the role-pin, which allows the crankshaft to be extracted. Then you can insert the new shaft, align and drive in the role-pin, add a dab of grease,and reinstall the cover.
Be sure to drill the hole in the new shaft the same size as the original and at the same distance from the tip.
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Old 04-22-2018, 06:10 AM   #17
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Tongue Jack Crank Modification

Here's what I did...

There's no welding but only drilling. Precise drilling and patience is mandatory.
If you're mechanically incline, you'll find this modification easy-peasy-lemon-squeezy...
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Old 04-22-2018, 06:26 AM   #18
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I simply welded a 3/4 bolt on the end of the handle shaft. I can use my cordless drill with a 3/4 socket (my stabilizers jacks use the same) or crank it manually.
Just gotta watch for the spinning crank handle when using the drill ;-)
(and yes, I did spray some paint on it once the rain stopped!)
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Old 04-22-2018, 06:49 AM   #19
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Floyd thanks for this posing I like it!!


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