Tongue Weight - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 07-02-2007, 10:10 PM   #15
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I guess if you want to know some details one should read manual for what ever you doing.
Chester Taje..

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read the manual.. well, I Never.....

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Old 07-02-2007, 10:39 PM   #16
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Chester Taje..

"Man" License..REVOKED!!!

read the manual.. well, I Never.....

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Old 07-02-2007, 11:14 PM   #17
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This unit ready for road including water tank [b]full.
15 gallons of water weigh 125 pounds. That would explain your tongue weight. My fresh tank is also near the front; but I travel with it empty.
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Old 07-02-2007, 11:41 PM   #18
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I possibly missed this in this thread but I have seen it mentioned elsewhere. Remember that putting on a large class 111 hitch doesn't necessarily mean your vehicle can tow something that heavy. I hear people saying oh I have a class 111 hitch on my van. The hitch is not the only deciding factor. The first thing you must know is the capacity of your vehicle.This can be found as said in the manual or by contacting the vehicle manufacturer. Then you can decide the suitable size of hitch to install on your vehicle.

Class 1 - up to 2000 lbs.
Class 2 - up to 3500 lbs.
Class 3 - up to 5000 lbs.
Class 4 - 5000 to 10000 lbs.

It is useless to install a class 3 hitch on a vehicle that has a capacity of say 3000 lbs. It does not increase the capacity. In fact if you buy a used vehicle don't necessarily assume that because it has a certain class of hitch on it it can tow that much. Always know the towing capacity of your vehicle.

Here is an information site:
http://www.mto.gov.on.ca/english/saf...cs/trailer.htm
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Old 07-03-2007, 12:14 AM   #19
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15 gallons of water weigh 125 pounds. That would explain your tongue weight. My fresh tank is also near the front; but I travel with it empty.
If i camp within 135 km from my house you need to pack water.No campgrounds with water supply that i know off.
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Old 07-03-2007, 01:58 PM   #20
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Sorry Gina, but eventually I always read the manual, but then I LIKE reading the technical stuf and it gives me warm fuzzies!

But to keep things in perspective, it's rare that I read the instructions before I start...
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Old 07-03-2007, 02:27 PM   #21
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Sorry Gina, but eventually I always read the manual, but then I LIKE reading the technical stuf and it gives me warm fuzzies!

But to keep things in perspective, it's rare that I read the instructions before I start...
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Old 07-03-2007, 02:32 PM   #22
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It is useless to install a class 3 hitch on a vehicle that has a capacity of say 3000 lbs.
Other than the fact there are A LOT more accessories for the Class 3 hitch than for the one and two. All kinds of bike racks come to mind....
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Old 07-03-2007, 03:43 PM   #23
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(It is useless to install a class 3 hitch on a vehicle that has a capacity of say 3000 lbs.)

My 2004 Trillium is way under 3000lbs.The recommented hitch from Team Trillium is a class 3 hitch.

I guess if your tow vehicle can only tow 3000lbs and you buy a Trill,do you follow manufacters recommendation or not?
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Old 07-03-2007, 05:13 PM   #24
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As Donna points out, lots of stuf is made for the larger receivers, and Trill may be concerned that the **hardware accessories** for the smaller receivers may also have less desirable capacity limitations.

I would be inclined to put on the larger hitch receiver because it is stronger, it's accessories are stronger and there are more of them. In fact, I did just that with my old D150 even though it had a tow capacity of only 2000 lbs.
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Old 07-03-2007, 05:47 PM   #25
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There are lots of reasons besides the vehicle's capacity to use a class III. I had 5,000 lb class IIIs on my Toyota compact trucks that had tow ratings of 3,500 lbs.

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Old 07-03-2007, 07:13 PM   #26
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The availability of accessories is a valid advantage of a hitch with a 2" receiver box (of any class). Ability to handle a WD system, which requires both a 2" box and the manufacturer's design and rating, is an advantage if you want WD... again, regardless of hitch class. Finally, a Class 3 hitch is necessarily stronger than a Class 1 or Class 2 hitch needs to be, so it's likely stronger and stiffer... but the Class 2 (with 1.25" box) OEM receiver on my Sienna is as substantially constructed as the available "Class 3" units (no hitch is appropriate for use over 3500 lb on this vehicle).

So Class 3 is pointless for a vehicle with 3000 lb of towing capacity, but some features typical of Class 3 hitches might be good to have.

On the other hand, if the big hitch hangs lower and causes ground clearance problems (a minivan issue due to the lower floor than an SUV), weighs more, interferes with spare tire mounting, or just looks ugly, then maybe it's not the hot setup for towing a Class 1 trailer.

With no offense intended to our valued members who manufacture trailers - factory recommendations (for any product) are often driven by something other than the ideal solution for your situation. If in doubt, recommend excessively large...

To directly answer Chester's question: I would buy the right hitch. For a RAV4, that's something with at least 3500 lb capacity which fits well and is well-constructed, and for which appropriate ball mounts are available... and whether that turns out to be rated Class 3 or just Class2, or whether it has a 2" or 1.25" box, are secondary to me.
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Old 07-03-2007, 11:59 PM   #27
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I agree with the answers to my posting on hitch clasifications especially Brian's. I only wanted to point out to anyone who's not sure that putting a 5000
lb hitch on your vehicle does not mean your vehicle can tow that much. Also if you buy a vehicle with a hitch already installed don't assume it is the right size for the vehicle.
As far as manufacturers recommendations in our lawsuit happy society most if not all manufacturers are sure to error on the side of caution and I really do not have a problem with that as long as the consumer has a good understanding of what they are doing.
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