Tongue weight problem - Page 4 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-02-2015, 01:52 PM   #43
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Unibody

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Originally Posted by Mike Magee View Post
Unibody or not unibody is not determinative of towing capability. My unibody Highlander is rated for 5000 lbs with 500 hitch weight. Different unibodies have different hitch receiver attachment strength, different suspensions, different brake sizes and different drive trains and cooling systems; these are more determinative.
Which is why the manuals for these vehicles list their different and varying abilities and limitations.

But the reference to unibody discussed above related to the RV service manager's reference to "frame," which the Volvo does not have.

And yes, we understand there is a "body" unit which holds the entire car together (and also makes it stronger and safer in accidents), but this is different from a metal frame with a body sitting on it.


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Old 08-02-2015, 02:15 PM   #44
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Towing Weight vs. Towing Speed

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Originally Posted by Ellpea in CA View Post
John, thanks for posting this link. The more I read and explore, the more it seems there is NO agreement on this issue anywhere.
So this means that the max towing capacity is about 3960 lbs and the recommended ball load is about 187 lbs. *I guess the cars in UK are built stronger


LP


Did you read down a bit further for the maximum towing speed for that vehicle in that county, as well as Volvo's listed max towing speed? Those will both will effect the maximum weight a vehicle can safely tow.

If you could put a sticker on the back of your vehicle limiting your max speed to 50 MPH in exchange for a higher tow rating would you be willing to do that?

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Old 08-02-2015, 02:17 PM   #45
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Did you read down a bit further for the maximum towing speed for that vehicle in that county, as well as Volvo's listed max towing speed? Those will both will effect the maximum weight a vehicle can safely tow.

If you could put a sticker on the back of your vehicle limiting your max speed to 50 MPH in exchange for a higher tow rating would you be willing to do that?

[/INDENT]
YES
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Old 08-02-2015, 02:25 PM   #46
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Originally Posted by Bob Miller View Post
Did you read down a bit further for the maximum towing speed for that vehicle in that county, as well as Volvo's listed max towing speed? Those will both will effect the maximum weight a vehicle can safely tow.

If you could put a sticker on the back of your vehicle limiting your max speed to 50 MPH in exchange for a higher tow rating would you be willing to do that?

[/INDENT]
Yes, I read through the entire thread... I would be willing to drive that slow, but would hope there is a way to gain a little more speed when it is completely safe to do so.

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Old 08-02-2015, 02:41 PM   #47
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Driving Sloooooow

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Yes, I read through the entire thread... I would be willing to drive that slow, but would hope there is a way to gain a little more speed when it is completely safe to do so.

LP
In several European countries it's common to have KPH stickers either on the vehicle or on the trailer being towed to let other drivers know that you may have a lower speed limit that that posted.

In Germany, commercial vehicles can elect to have a lower, self imposed, max speed in exchange for lower registration costs. BUT.... It's a ticketable violation if you exceed the speed on your sticker. So, if you are on the Autobahn, and cars are flying by you at 150 kph, if you exceed your 80 KPH sticker speed, there can be a ticket in your near future.

The thinking on the Caravan speed limit is that there isn't a time or place when it's safe to exceed that speed if you wish to use that tow weight limit.

Can you imaging trying to exist on the interstates at 48-50 MPH? (80 KPH)

BTW: The reason the Germany has reduced the number of unlimited speeds zone on many autobahns is because of "Closing speed accidents". That's what happens when say, a VW at 120 KPH, pulls out to pass a 80 KPH truck and gets run into by a Mercedes at 240 KPH.

And in Germany, everyone drives in the right lane except when passing, otherwise a Mercedes/BMW/Audi etc, with headlights blinking, will be up your tail pipe in a Berlin minute.
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Old 08-02-2015, 03:33 PM   #48
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The farther back from the axle the more of a difference it will make. If you I'll it and make a test, if it is not enough you can move more stuff to the back. The camper was designed to travel with a full tank of water so I have never worried about that. We always take a cooler along files with ice and water, soda, etc and you could put one back there on the other side if you thought a balance was appropriate.

If you try it and it does not work, just drain the water. Better than moving a battery back and forth.
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Old 08-02-2015, 03:36 PM   #49
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Tongue weight problem

Returning to balancing tongue weight on the Lil Bigfoot...

If you move the battery you may not have to fill the water tank. Moving 40-50 pounds from the tongue to behind the axle should by itself get this trailer in the right ballpark without increasing total weight one ounce.

Adding water (to the rear-mounted tank) will decrease tongue weight, but it will also increase total weight significantly. With a tongue weight limit of 165 pounds, the total weight should end up around 1600 pounds, which means there is only about 300 pounds to work with. You need to leave room for food, clothes, cooking gear, folding chairs, etc. Unless you're headed to a dry camp far from potable water, there's no reason to fill the tank.
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Old 08-02-2015, 03:40 PM   #50
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And not only that, the battery's weight, once moved stays moved. Not so when you are using water along the way.
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Old 08-02-2015, 03:40 PM   #51
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And in Germany, everyone drives in the right lane except when passing, otherwise a Mercedes/BMW/Audi etc, with headlights blinking, will be up your tail pipe in a Berlin minute.
How true. And he rarely knows how to slow down safely. Especially in the old days (several decades ago), the left lane was the death lane. Those 240kph drivers thought they had the right to hit the slower ones. In general, the drivers in the US are so much more defensive and safer; when I visit in Europe, my brother admires how calmly I drive, letting people pass, etc. Many drivers in Europe still think it is a sport and all want to coach the others, who know nothing.
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Old 08-02-2015, 05:14 PM   #52
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dry camp and battery

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Originally Posted by Jon in AZ View Post
Returning to balancing tongue weight on the Lil Bigfoot...

If you move the battery you may not have to fill the water tank. Moving 40-50 pounds from the tongue to behind the axle should by itself get this trailer in the right ballpark without increasing total weight one ounce.

Adding water (to the rear-mounted tank) will decrease tongue weight, but it will also increase total weight significantly. With a tongue weight limit of 165 pounds, the total weight should end up around 1600 pounds, which means there is only about 300 pounds to work with. You need to leave room for food, clothes, cooking gear, folding chairs, etc. Unless you're headed to a dry camp far from potable water, there's no reason to fill the tank.
Ron doesn't think the battery weighs that much, he's estimating 25 pounds or so. We'll find out when we take it out for recharge (it has been sitting a while).

Actually, we are headed for a dry camp on Labor day. And we have 4 major mountain passes to cross to get there, so I hate to lug water all that way. But we can fill up in some handy place once we get close, so that's not a problem.

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Old 08-02-2015, 05:50 PM   #53
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An Interstate Group 24 RV Battery weighs between 41 & 46 lbs.
https://www.interstatebatteries.com/...o/marine_f.asp


If you have smaller than a group 24 battery you need a larger battery, 24 is minimum, Group 27 is preferred.


But it should have been charging in place when the shore cable was connected.
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Old 08-02-2015, 05:53 PM   #54
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Originally Posted by Mike Magee View Post
Unibody or not unibody is not determinative of towing capability. My unibody Highlander is rated for 5000 lbs with 500 hitch weight. Different unibodies have different hitch receiver attachment strength, different suspensions, different brake sizes and different drive trains and cooling systems; these are more determinative.
True that... like a late nineties 3/4 ton Chevy Cargo Van
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Old 08-02-2015, 08:37 PM   #55
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No. of occupants 1 2 3 4 5 6 7
Seating position Front seat Front seat 2nd row of seats 2nd row of seats 2nd row of seats Optional 3rd row of seats Optional 3rd row of seats
All Wheel Drive 5,000 lbs (2250 kg) 5,000 lbs (2250 kg) 4,500 lbs (2050 kg) 3,700 lbs (1700 kg) 2,900 lbs (1350 kg) 1,800 lbs (800 kg) Trailer towing not recommended
Max. trailer hitch tongue load 500 lbs (225 kg) 500 lbs (225 kg) 450 lbs (205 kg) 370 lbs (170 kg) 290 lbs (135 kg) 180 lbs (80 kg) -
Front Wheel Drive 4,000 lbs (1800 kg) 4,000 lbs (1800 kg) 4,000 lbs (1800 kg) 4,000 lbs (1800 kg) 3,700 lbs (1650 kg) 2,500 lbs (1150 kg) 1,400 lbs (650 kg)
Max. trailer hitch tongue load 400 lbs (180 kg) 400 lbs (180 kg) 400 lbs (180 kg) 400 lbs (180 kg) 370 lbs (165 kg) 250 lbs (115 kg) 140 lbs (65 kg)
This mess above indicated how the tobar loads are calculated. The limit is for the car loaded to its maximun recommended amount.
With the rear loading at basically Zero ( no rear seat passengers or load in the cargo area the limit is 500 lbs.
The low rating seems to be basically worst case.
In the case of the VW towbar the bar itself is rated 300 KG , but the installation is rated 100 KG or 220 lbs.
The owners manual suggests towing with 200 lbs on the hitch.
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Old 08-03-2015, 07:14 AM   #56
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In the case of the VW towbar the bar itself is rated 300 KG , but the installation is rated 100 KG or 220 lbs.
The owners manual suggests towing with 200 lbs on the hitch.
Without the use of a modern WDH the limitations are glaring/disappointing for sure. Will the day ever come when the off shore thinking will advance to where we are over here with connection technology???
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