torsion arm angle on 1984 Scamp

[CantankerousCarl]

Does anyone know what the starting angle for the torsion axle arm was on a 1984 13' Scamp?

Having just joined the ranks of Scamp owners, I'm trying to get mine roadworthy for a cross-country trip this summer. While the tires don't appear to be hitting the wheel wells, I don't seem to have any give left in the torsion axle (not surprising, given that it's nearly 30 years old, and the previous owner hadn't jacked it in 8 years). My Scamp has the leading arm formation, and it's angled up. When I called Scamp to ask about what kind of axle to order, I was told a 22.5 down, which seems odd for a leading arm.

I'd like to make the switch to a trailing arm with a downward angle (to gain some lift and get a smoother ride), but am a little intimidated by the amount of modification required to mount under the dropped kitchen floor.

If I move to a 0 or down angle on a leading arm, would my suspension suffer? And if I have Dexter make me a leading arm, will they still warranty it?

[floyd]

Originally Posted by CantankerousCarl

Does anyone know what the starting angle for the torsion axle arm was on a 1984 13' Scamp?

Having just joined the ranks of Scamp owners, I'm trying to get mine roadworthy for a cross-country trip this summer. While the tires don't appear to be hitting the wheel wells, I don't seem to have any give left in the torsion axle (not surprising, given that it's nearly 30 years old, and the previous owner hadn't jacked it in 8 years). My Scamp has the leading arm formation, and it's angled up. When I called Scamp to ask about what kind of axle to order, I was told a 22.5 down, which seems odd for a leading arm.

I'd like to make the switch to a trailing arm with a downward angle (to gain some lift and get a smoother ride), but am a little intimidated by the amount of modification required to mount under the dropped kitchen floor.

If I move to a 0 or down angle on a leading arm, would my suspension suffer? And if I have Dexter make me a leading arm, will they still warranty it?

here's what it looked like new...

[Kevin K]

Trailing arm 22 1/2 degrees down.

[CantankerousCarl]

Nice trailer, Kevin. Did you have to make modifications to the frame to trade your leading arm axle for a trailing arm? I'd like to get that kind of lift, but don't want to have to mess around with a lot of mods around the kitchen drop floor.

[Greg H]

I think you can call Scamp and give them the serial # and they can look it up. " I think ".

[Kevin K]

Have to add some rectangle steel to kitchen side of trailer. Mine is a little high, but it tows level with my truck.
Before and after shots.





You could get by with a 12 degree down trailing arm.

[LukeP]

@kevin, don't want to change this subject too much - but did you paint the red moons? or where did you find them?

[Kevin K]

They were rusty chrome. I painted them.

[CantankerousCarl]

So, I called Dexter to ask about special ordering a leading arm 22.5 angle axle, and I was told by an engineer that they don't make them anymore. I remember reading a thread where a poster said that you could still special order them. He told me there was no way to get one.

I asked if I could just flip a trailing arm axle the other way and swap the brake shoes, as several posters in another thread mentioned, and he told me that their axles are designed to toe in, and that flipping it would cause alignment problems and wear the tires unevenly. Have others been told this, too? Anybody know about this? How bad off would I be if my axle was toe out instead of in?

[Peter Hansen]

That is funny, because you can still order the leading axle new directly from Scamp and they had to get them from somewhere.

[Bill K]

Scamp put an AL-KO axle on my 16' 2009, so that maybe where they are getting them.

Bill K

Originally Posted by Peter Hansen

That is funny, because you can still order the leading axle new directly from Scamp and they had to get them from somewhere.

[DannyH]

I put on a new leading arm axle on my scamp a year ago. I got it from Dexter (22.5 degrees down). I talked to the engineer directly and he said that they would only guarantee and build a trailing arm axle, but I could get a trialing edge one and reverse it and then re-install the brakes on opposite sides (there is a left and right brake). He said that they used to do leading edge axles but some were installed incorrectly at the higher degrees, over 45, and didn't perform correctly. He said reversing them at 22.5 should not be a problem, but company policy was not to warrantee it that way. I didn't have any problem having it installed and it seems to be working fine.

[Peter Hansen]

So, does anyone know who the manufacturer of the new leading axles that Scamp sells is? It would be great to find out for the few between us who don't know nothing of welding. If it is Dexter why do they give us the run around and don't they sell directly to us?

[Peter Hansen]

Dan,
Do you still have the specifications for the axle that your ordered? Also, did you use brackets (and if, what kind) or did you weld the axle on directly? I am getting ready to order a new axle but I can't decide if I should order directly from Scamp ($310 + $100 shipping) or just go with the Dexter 22.5 ($225 no shipping) installed leading. I don't want to end up with a setup where I have to change tires all the time due to bad alignment.
Thank you for your input.

[DannyH]

The axle specs - Dexter #9 Torflex rated 2200# / 7" electric brakes - 5 on 4.5 hub with EX lube / 22.5 deg down/ 49.5" to outside brackets, 63.5" to hub face / low profile bracket / leading arm - purchased at Potter Webster. The welders I used were next to Potter Webster, picked it up there, and welded it. They welded both the bracket and axle on. I was also worried about alignment, but the welding shop assured me they had done axles on scamp trailers before and did not have any problems. They had put on both Dexter and axles from scamp in the past. I just don't have enough miles on the trailer to verify that the tires do not wear oddly, so take everything with a grain of salt.

[Peter Hansen]

Thank you very much for the detailed info. I hope that this also addresses the issue that Carl has.

[LukeP]

Carl & Peter,
You've maybe read thru this detailed write-up of dropping the axle under the kitchen http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...arm-37248.html to allow a trailing axle that Dexter will cover. I found it very helpful in getting my head around what it would take.

When I took my Boler to a weld shop that was willing to do a project like this (tonight, actually. Tho it took me more tries than I care to relay, of axle shops being uninterested in helping over the last month - before I was referred to this fella) - it took him about 5 minutes to figure out how to measure the new position. Thanks to Roy's great details of which I read about 10 times, I was comfortable with everything he came up with.

My point is, axle guys who do this for a living quickly figure out what needs done, so it's not as cumbersome to them as it may be to us! So in the end, I ordered the same #9 Dexter as Danny, except trailing arm and slightly different measurements/angle. Axle will be $350, ordered thru the welder.

[Peter Hansen]

Luke,
Thanks for the link. I also reviewed Roy's installation many times and with his and the help of many others including Kevin’s I've got to the point that I had a fair understanding on what was needed. Thank you all. But just like you having an idea on what it would take, welding a Dexter leading or making the mod to trailing, the most frustrating part was to find somebody to do the work. And to do it right, including all the correct measurements and alignments that are needed.
At the end, I went a completely different route. I finally found a shop in Sacramento that is willing to do the work. However, Elton the owner suggested a conversion to springs with straight axle. He explained that there will be some additional welding needed to create the support at the kitchen drop and that at the end the trailer will ride quite a bit higher. Fortunately, this will eliminate the guesswork on switching to a larger tire size and also make future tire changing much easier. The cost will be about the same but future repairs and changes will be way easier. We also agreed on a more substantial 3500 pound axle since it will smooth the ride a bit. Scamp is in the shop right now and I can’t wait to see the outcome and share what and how it was all done.

Originally Posted by LukeP

Carl & Peter,
You've maybe read thru this detailed write-up of dropping the axle under the kitchen http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...arm-37248.html to allow a trailing axle that Dexter will cover. I found it very helpful in getting my head around what it would take.

When I took my Boler to a weld shop that was willing to do a project like this (tonight, actually. Tho it took me more tries than I care to relay, of axle shops being uninterested in helping over the last month - before I was referred to this fella) - it took him about 5 minutes to figure out how to measure the new position. Thanks to Roy's great details of which I read about 10 times, I was comfortable with everything he came up with.

My point is, axle guys who do this for a living quickly figure out what needs done, so it's not as cumbersome to them as it may be to us! So in the end, I ordered the same #9 Dexter as Danny, except trailing arm and slightly different measurements/angle. Axle will be $350, ordered thru the welder.