Tow safety chains on Scamp

[Carol H]

Originally Posted by mary and bob

I used a bungee to hold up excess chain. Probably not an acceptable method to some, but worked for me. Like Carol says, more than one tow vehicle, 4 actually and 7 trailers.

Have a hunch what holds up the excess is a none issue.... just as long as its not dragging and causing sparks.

[mary and bob]

Originally Posted by Carol H

... just as long as its not dragging and causing sparks.

I've seen that more than once!!

[floyd]

Originally Posted by mary and bob

I used a bungee to hold up excess chain. Probably not an acceptable method to some, but worked for me. Like Carol says, more than one tow vehicle, 4 actually and 7 trailers.

I have replaced my chains with larger than stock chains equipped with better "clevis" clips. I too use a small bungee to support the chain in transit.
The new chain is attached separately to the frame on each side and not to a single point on the coupler. This allows the chains to be truly crossed under the drawbar. I don't twist my chains but I seriously doubt that the weight of a 13 Scamp could even come close to stressing my chains even if they had a couple of twists.

[Carol H]

Originally Posted by mary and bob

I've seen that more than once!!

LOL not going there Bob as I don't wish to see sparks fly should another interesting discussion break out on the physics of the cause of that.

[Carol H]

Originally Posted by floyd

The new chain is attached separately to the frame on each side and not to a single point on the coupler. This allows the chains to be truly crossed under the drawbar. .

Floyd how did you achieve that? been considering it myself as the single point attachment does present a problem with getting a correct chain crossing .

[floyd]

Originally Posted by Carol H

Floyd how did you achieve that? been considering it myself as the single point attachment does present a problem with getting a correct chain crossing .

A single hole drilled through the frame just below the rear of the coupler on each side,close enough to the bottom of the tube to allow the bolted link to lay flat, then bolted a chain to each side using grade eight bolts and washers.

[Glenn Baglo]

Originally Posted by mary and bob

I used a bungee to hold up excess chain. Probably not an acceptable method to some, but worked for me. Like Carol says, more than one tow vehicle, 4 actually and 7 trailers.

My understanding is that the reason for crossing the chains and having them at the proper length is so that they cradle the hitch above the pavement in the event of a failure.

Using a bungee may keep them from dragging on the pavement, but only disguises that the chains are not properly installed.

[floyd]

Originally Posted by Glenn Baglo

My understanding is that the reason for crossing the chains and having them at the proper length is so that they cradle the hitch above the pavement in the event of a failure.

Using a bungee may keep them from dragging on the pavement, but only disguises that the chains are not properly installed.

A couple of points...
My chains are in fact properly installed and the proper length for the application. A 13Scamp coupler is pretty close to the ground and I like the look of keeping the chains elevated fairly close to the coupler. The small bungee has no effect whatsoever on the effectiveness of the safety chains which would not drag the ground on level pavement without it.
Keeping the chain at a height even with the bottom of the trailer jack prevents scuffing the chain when crossing the curb line at such things as fuel stops.

[Darwin Maring]

Floyd, You R in a no win situation. No solution mentioned has been acceptable to the experts.

[Glenn Baglo]

And Darwin, well what can I say?
Perhaps Floyd you could post a picture, because I am trying to understand how the chains work properly, if a bungee is needed to keep them off the pavement.

[floyd]

Originally Posted by Glenn Baglo

And Darwin, well what can I say?
Perhaps Floyd you could post a picture, because I am trying to understand how the chains work properly, if a bungee is needed to keep them off the pavement.

You are apparently trying to understand something which was not stated. Reread my post and you will discover the following quote...
"The small bungee has no effect whatsoever on the effectiveness of the safety chains which would not drag the ground on level pavement without it."

[Darwin Maring]

Floyd: I rest my case.

[mary and bob]

Originally Posted by Carol H

Floyd how did you achieve that? been considering it myself as the single point attachment does present a problem with getting a correct chain crossing .

Carol, see the photo in my post #13. A tab or "ear" welded on each side with a hole in it to attach the chain to. This method will be acceptable to those who have faith in Uhaul's policies. but not to those who dislike Uhaul. But this method may start a spinoff discussion of welding, such as length required, penetration, shear strength, etc.
Edit: sharp eyed viewers will comment on the merits of the connecting link. It was this way when we bought the trailer

[Darwin Maring]

Which Would you recommend: arc, mig, tig or gas welding?

[mary and bob]

Darwin; I have no choice as I only own 2 arc welders, but one of them has a reverse polarity option, SO??????? which is better.

[Carol H]

Originally Posted by floyd

A single hole drilled through the frame just below the rear of the coupler on each side,close enough to the bottom of the tube to allow the bolted link to lay flat, then bolted a chain to each side using grade eight bolts and washers.

thanks Floyd, been thinking about doing this for awhile... I may change out my coupler this year so perhaps will that being done it would be a good time to have the chains set up a little better at the same time.

Glenn, I think you are perhaps misunderstanding what Bob is using the bungie cord for. Believe they are doing as I was taught and suggested earlier as a way of shorting chains without impacting their load rating & keeping the length so they can be used with more than one vehicle. Which is to attach a turnbuckle or such onto the chain at the point you might otherwise have cut them off and use that to attach the chains to the vehicle. The bungie (or as I have used a carabiner) is just used on the end of the extra chain that is hanging down to pin it back to keep it from dragging.

[Darwin Maring]

Mary or Bob: R U Positive about that?

[Carol H]

Originally Posted by mary and bob

Carol, see the photo in my post #13. A tab or "ear" welded on each side with a hole in it to attach the chain to. This method will be acceptable to those who have faith in Uhaul's policies. but not to those who dislike Uhaul. But this method may start a spinoff discussion of welding, such as length required, penetration, shear strength, etc.
Edit: sharp eyed viewers will comment on the merits of the connecting link. It was this way when we bought the trailer

ROFL well I did read someplace not so long ago that some states- maybe Texas or? or perhaps it was an SAE someplace that the chains shouldn't be welded but bolted and that two bolts was the new standard not one. And nope I am not going to go digging up where I read that!

[Carol H]

Originally Posted by Darwin Maring

Mary or Bob: R U Positive about that?

humm see post #40 but of course only Bob can confirm if I am correct in my understanding of what they wrote.

Darwin, one of the great things about this list is that people get to share what they have learned over the years, some it through the school of hard knocks or perhaps some of us actually had to learn some of it through our professional work. No one says you have to agree with it or follow the same practises but some of us do find hearing how others do things of interest and do more often than not learn something new through such discussions.

So how about sharing with us how you came to use the practises you use to shorten the chains and the rational behind it or perhaps why you believe the suggestions made by others are in someway incorrect in doing it the way they do.

[Darwin Maring]

The following sites give pictures of the chains and the bottom site gives state regulations. Should you purchase chains at Lowes / Home Depot, ETrailer or some other supplier, they should have the strength identified on the tag where they are located.

https://www.google.com/search?q=dot+...w=1680&bih=917

http://webspace.webring.com/people/j...yChainLaws.pdf