Tow safety chains on Scamp - Page 4 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 02-23-2014, 10:37 AM   #43
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I used a bungee to hold up excess chain. Probably not an acceptable method to some, but worked for me. Like Carol says, more than one tow vehicle, 4 actually and 7 trailers.
I have replaced my chains with larger than stock chains equipped with better "clevis" clips. I too use a small bungee to support the chain in transit.
The new chain is attached separately to the frame on each side and not to a single point on the coupler. This allows the chains to be truly crossed under the drawbar. I don't twist my chains but I seriously doubt that the weight of a 13 Scamp could even come close to stressing my chains even if they had a couple of twists.
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Old 02-23-2014, 10:42 AM   #44
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I've seen that more than once!!
LOL not going there Bob as I don't wish to see sparks fly should another interesting discussion break out on the physics of the cause of that.
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Old 02-23-2014, 10:44 AM   #45
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The new chain is attached separately to the frame on each side and not to a single point on the coupler. This allows the chains to be truly crossed under the drawbar. .
Floyd how did you achieve that? been considering it myself as the single point attachment does present a problem with getting a correct chain crossing .
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Old 02-23-2014, 11:33 AM   #46
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Floyd how did you achieve that? been considering it myself as the single point attachment does present a problem with getting a correct chain crossing .
A single hole drilled through the frame just below the rear of the coupler on each side,close enough to the bottom of the tube to allow the bolted link to lay flat, then bolted a chain to each side using grade eight bolts and washers.
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Old 02-23-2014, 11:43 AM   #47
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I used a bungee to hold up excess chain. Probably not an acceptable method to some, but worked for me. Like Carol says, more than one tow vehicle, 4 actually and 7 trailers.
My understanding is that the reason for crossing the chains and having them at the proper length is so that they cradle the hitch above the pavement in the event of a failure.

Using a bungee may keep them from dragging on the pavement, but only disguises that the chains are not properly installed.
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Old 02-23-2014, 12:08 PM   #48
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My understanding is that the reason for crossing the chains and having them at the proper length is so that they cradle the hitch above the pavement in the event of a failure.

Using a bungee may keep them from dragging on the pavement, but only disguises that the chains are not properly installed.
A couple of points...
My chains are in fact properly installed and the proper length for the application. A 13Scamp coupler is pretty close to the ground and I like the look of keeping the chains elevated fairly close to the coupler. The small bungee has no effect whatsoever on the effectiveness of the safety chains which would not drag the ground on level pavement without it.
Keeping the chain at a height even with the bottom of the trailer jack prevents scuffing the chain when crossing the curb line at such things as fuel stops.
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Old 02-23-2014, 12:17 PM   #49
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Floyd, You R in a no win situation. No solution mentioned has been acceptable to the experts.
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Old 02-23-2014, 12:25 PM   #50
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And Darwin, well what can I say?
Perhaps Floyd you could post a picture, because I am trying to understand how the chains work properly, if a bungee is needed to keep them off the pavement.
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Old 02-23-2014, 12:33 PM   #51
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And Darwin, well what can I say?
Perhaps Floyd you could post a picture, because I am trying to understand how the chains work properly, if a bungee is needed to keep them off the pavement.
You are apparently trying to understand something which was not stated. Reread my post and you will discover the following quote...
"The small bungee has no effect whatsoever on the effectiveness of the safety chains which would not drag the ground on level pavement without it."
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Old 02-23-2014, 12:48 PM   #52
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Floyd: I rest my case.
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Old 02-23-2014, 02:30 PM   #53
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Floyd how did you achieve that? been considering it myself as the single point attachment does present a problem with getting a correct chain crossing .
Carol, see the photo in my post #13. A tab or "ear" welded on each side with a hole in it to attach the chain to. This method will be acceptable to those who have faith in Uhaul's policies. but not to those who dislike Uhaul. But this method may start a spinoff discussion of welding, such as length required, penetration, shear strength, etc.
Edit: sharp eyed viewers will comment on the merits of the connecting link. It was this way when we bought the trailer
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Old 02-23-2014, 02:44 PM   #54
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Which Would you recommend: arc, mig, tig or gas welding?
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Old 02-23-2014, 02:58 PM   #55
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Darwin; I have no choice as I only own 2 arc welders, but one of them has a reverse polarity option, SO??????? which is better.
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Old 02-23-2014, 03:21 PM   #56
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A single hole drilled through the frame just below the rear of the coupler on each side,close enough to the bottom of the tube to allow the bolted link to lay flat, then bolted a chain to each side using grade eight bolts and washers.

thanks Floyd, been thinking about doing this for awhile... I may change out my coupler this year so perhaps will that being done it would be a good time to have the chains set up a little better at the same time.

Glenn, I think you are perhaps misunderstanding what Bob is using the bungie cord for. Believe they are doing as I was taught and suggested earlier as a way of shorting chains without impacting their load rating & keeping the length so they can be used with more than one vehicle. Which is to attach a turnbuckle or such onto the chain at the point you might otherwise have cut them off and use that to attach the chains to the vehicle. The bungie (or as I have used a carabiner) is just used on the end of the extra chain that is hanging down to pin it back to keep it from dragging.
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