Tow safety chains on Scamp - Page 5 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 02-23-2014, 03:24 PM   #57
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Mary or Bob: R U Positive about that?
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Old 02-23-2014, 03:27 PM   #58
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Originally Posted by mary and bob View Post
Carol, see the photo in my post #13. A tab or "ear" welded on each side with a hole in it to attach the chain to. This method will be acceptable to those who have faith in Uhaul's policies. but not to those who dislike Uhaul. But this method may start a spinoff discussion of welding, such as length required, penetration, shear strength, etc.
Edit: sharp eyed viewers will comment on the merits of the connecting link. It was this way when we bought the trailer
ROFL well I did read someplace not so long ago that some states- maybe Texas or? or perhaps it was an SAE someplace that the chains shouldn't be welded but bolted and that two bolts was the new standard not one. And nope I am not going to go digging up where I read that!
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Old 02-23-2014, 03:47 PM   #59
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Originally Posted by Darwin Maring View Post
Mary or Bob: R U Positive about that?
humm see post #40 but of course only Bob can confirm if I am correct in my understanding of what they wrote.

Darwin, one of the great things about this list is that people get to share what they have learned over the years, some it through the school of hard knocks or perhaps some of us actually had to learn some of it through our professional work. No one says you have to agree with it or follow the same practises but some of us do find hearing how others do things of interest and do more often than not learn something new through such discussions.

So how about sharing with us how you came to use the practises you use to shorten the chains and the rational behind it or perhaps why you believe the suggestions made by others are in someway incorrect in doing it the way they do.
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Old 02-23-2014, 03:52 PM   #60
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The following sites give pictures of the chains and the bottom site gives state regulations. Should you purchase chains at Lowes / Home Depot, ETrailer or some other supplier, they should have the strength identified on the tag where they are located.

https://www.google.com/search?q=dot+...w=1680&bih=917

http://webspace.webring.com/people/j...yChainLaws.pdf
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Old 02-23-2014, 03:58 PM   #61
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Floyd, You R in a no win situation. No solution mentioned has been acceptable to the experts.
That since we're dealing with "experts" who are willing to believe in the possibility of truly crossing the chains at all using a single point of attachment because that's how Scamp puts the trailer out.

And Scamp knows everything there is to know about towing, so...Until we hear from Scamp itself, we can't know anything. About anything. Period.

What shall we talk about while we wait?
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Old 02-23-2014, 04:01 PM   #62
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Check the following publication where you will find a Twist on the discussion.:

http://www.generatorjoe.net/html/trailersafety.pdf

It States: SAFETY CHAINS CAN PREVENT RUNAWAY
TRAILER in case hitch/coupler fails.
1. Always use safety chains when towing.
2. Cross safety chains under coupling to prevent tongue from
dropping to ground.
3. Allow only enough slack for tight turns.
4. Do not let safety chains drag on ground.
5. Twist safety chains equally from hook ends to take up slack.
6. Use safety chains rated equal to or greater than twice the
maximum gross trailer weight rating.
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Old 02-23-2014, 04:07 PM   #63
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I'm lost on what we're discussing now, and just what I'm supposed to be positive about LOL. But Carol, note my chains aren't welded on, it's the tabs they attach to that are welded. Is there a one only 100% correct answer here, I don't know. I'm just throwing out some ideas, and with what I hope others recognize as some humor added in. I'll make no further comments on this topic so as not to annoy anyone more than I already have. Lot of good points though in this thread, thanks all.
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Old 02-23-2014, 04:14 PM   #64
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Originally Posted by Francesca Knowles View Post
That since we're dealing with "experts" who are willing to believe in the possibility of truly crossing the chains at all using a single point of attachment because that's how Scamp puts the trailer out.

And Scamp knows everything there is to know about towing, so...Until we hear from Scamp itself, we can't know anything. About anything. Period.

What shall we talk about while we wait?
What "expert" here suggested that you can truly cross the chains using just one single point attachment? What post number did you read that? As I clearly missed that.

Looks to me as if we have at least one party who has acknoledged already having changed there Scamp set up to using two bolts and another such as myself is considering doing the same as I don't actually like having to wrap my chains over the side of the tongue to get a true cross.
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Old 02-23-2014, 04:43 PM   #65
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What "expert" here suggested that you can truly cross the chains using just one single point attachment? What post number did you read that? As I clearly missed that.
Will it do for an answer if I simply quote your repetition (?) just now?
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Originally Posted by Carol H View Post
I don't actually like having to wrap my chains over the side of the tongue to get a true cross .
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Old 02-23-2014, 04:44 PM   #66
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I'm lost on what we're discussing now,
Me too! LOL time to bail as well.
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Old 02-23-2014, 05:40 PM   #67
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Thank you Carol for a civil explanation.
I appreciate that.

baglo
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Old 02-23-2014, 10:06 PM   #68
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Risking being accused of beating a dead horse, I want to ask: has anybody actually tested the length of the chains on his/her rig? I mean *statically* of course, NOT on the highway! (No, I have not.)
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Old 02-24-2014, 01:05 AM   #69
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I have to admit, I've not. The connection to the hitch receiver is on the third link from the end of the chain and was determined at Escape when they set up the weight distribution hitch.
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Old 02-24-2014, 08:23 AM   #70
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As I have towed mine with more than one tug mine have been checked. I actually need to sort it out again with my new tug. Not hard to check them in the driveway. Just hook up the chains to the tug, not the ball and pull the tug forward until the chains are straight out from the coupler. Then crank the tongue wheel down and you should get a pretty good indication as to whether or not the chains are actually going to catch the tongue as it goes down.
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