Tow Vehicle - Equipment

[Tom Trostel]

2011 Toyota Sienna jack collapses to 3 3/4" and extends to 18".

[Wayne Collins]

We had 3 different Odyssey's for towing our 16 ft Scamp.
Because the rear bumper is low, the receiver hitch requires a drawbar with extra high rise to get the ball up to the right level.
There was no way to install booster shocks or airbags at the rear axle, to keep the van from sagging with trailer connected, so we compensated by putting on tires with a higher radius, inflated them to 40 - 45 psi. and keeping heavy items out of the rear of the van.

[Carol H]

Originally Posted by Wayne Collins

We had 3 different Odyssey's for towing our 16 ft Scamp.
Because the rear bumper is low, the receiver hitch requires a drawbar with extra high rise to get the ball up to the right level.
There was no way to install booster shocks or airbags at the rear axle, to keep the van from sagging with trailer connected, so we compensated by putting on tires with a higher radius, inflated them to 40 - 45 psi. and keeping heavy items out of the rear of the van.

Does Honda offer a factory installed hitch? If so would it not sit a bit higher than an after market hitch?

[Wayne Collins]

Originally Posted by Carol H

Does Honda offer a factory installed hitch? If so would it not sit a bit higher than an after market hitch?

Only if it is built in to the rear bumper. Check their web site.

[Tom Cantrell]

Originally Posted by Jon in AZ

One additional piece of hardware I highly recommend is an anti-rattle device. Most draw bars have some slop in the receiver tube, which makes a lot annoying noises and can damage the receiver tube.

Here is a popular solution, but there are a lot of other ways to accomplish the same thing, off-the-shelf and homemade.
https://www.etrailer.com/Hitch-Acces...er/RM-061.html
Attachment 99217
Attachment 99218

A cheaper effective solution to the rattle is to super glue two used hack saw blades (cut to length) to the tongue.

[Captleemo]

Here is a jack that you might consider. It is a combination hydraulic bottle jack, jack-stand combination. The convenience of a hydraulic jack and the safety of a jack-stand all in one. Powerbuilt 3 Ton All-in-One Jack - For Life Out Here

[Carol H]

Originally Posted by Wayne Collins

Only if it is built in to the rear bumper. Check their web site.

Did and it appears the factory installed hitch receiver does come up and out a cut out in rear bumper putting it a bit higher than an after market hitch would sit. Which is worth getting if clearance is a concern.

[honda03842]

We tow a 1991 Scamp 16 with a 2014 Honda Odyssey. Our hitch was a factory option. It requires approximately 2.5 inch step up to mount the trailer level. The step up does not interfer with anything.

We have the standard 16 inch tires and do not use airbags or other suspension add ons.

The Scamp weighs 2600 lbs and has a tongue weight of about 200 lbs.

For the NL Caravan we carried a Honda Generator behind the third row along with a bottle jack, small compressor and assorted automobile fluids.

The Odyssey had no issues with this load. Bothe the Scam and Odyssey are pretty level on the road. We do use an anti sway bar and a anti 'rattle device.

[Civilguy]

Originally Posted by Jon in AZ

One additional piece of hardware I highly recommend is an anti-rattle device. Most draw bars have some slop in the receiver tube, which makes a lot annoying noises and can damage the receiver tube.

Jon,

That was a very nice post (#2).

I have always been bothered by the apparent slop in my hitches, from towing about 1,500 lbs of loaded teardrop trailer, to perhaps twice that weight with our Casita.

There has always been some push / pull sensation from the trailer on local roads, accompanied by a bit of banging noises. This would improve when I got a steady pull on the trailer at higher speeds and on smoother roads, such as on arterials and the freeway. However, it bothered me enough that I bought a similar hitch tightener, a StowAway brand; it appears to be very substantially built.

However, before I installed the hitch tightener, I realized that there is an adjustment nut underneath the coupler. It was not very loose, but I went ahead and snugged it up to perhaps about 25 ft/lbs, then backed off a trifle so it would not bind or gall.

Surprisingly, to me at least, this minor adjustment took out the vast majority of the slop and banging around that I had previously experienced.

There is definitely some slop between the drawbar and the receiver tube, and there is some additional play between the drawbar and the locking hitch pin too. I can feel this when I am assembling things.

However, apparently the majority of what I could feel from the driver's seat was eliminated by the coupler adjustment. This was so effective that I just towed 800 miles and did not install the tightener; it remains in the trailer in it's original packaging.

Not to hijack the thread here, this was news to me. As so much about trailers and towing still are.

Regarding Casitas tongue weight, mine was 450 lbs coming home last week; it's listed as 365 lbs on the Casita web site (for the 17' Deluxe). Although my tow vehicle is handling it very well, I clearly have more work to do on adjusting the loading.

Regarding jacks, I carry a bottle jack along with an Andersen leveler and some wood blocks. I figure I can drive the flat tire up onto the Andersen to attain enough clearance for the jack if need arises. The Casita (apparently) came from the factory with a small cross-style lug wrench; or perhaps it was left by the previous owner. Regardless, I carry a good quality 1/2"-drive breaker bar, a six-inch extension and sockets. I figure that changing a tire by the roadside is no time to be messing around with marginal tools.

[Bobbie Mayer]

Does anyone use this type lift/drop?

https://www.amazon.com/Towing-Hitch-.../dp/B00EF3SOT2

They come in all kinds of rise/drop amounts (price goes up with distance).

[Civilguy]

Originally Posted by Bobbie Mayer

Does anyone use this type lift/drop?

https://www.amazon.com/Towing-Hitch-.../dp/B00EF3SOT2

They come in all kinds of rise/drop amounts (price goes up with distance).

I've never actually seen one in use. I think it would double your play between the drawbar and the two receiver tubes.

It looks like it might have application for raising the mounting height of a cargo or accessory rack.

[Shelia]

I hesitated to post my question because I didn't want to sound stupid. But I knew there were lots of nice people here, willing to help a newbie. I've learned so much already, and still reading.

I'm paying through the nose for the 2013 Honda. Can't afford to order a new one with a factory hitch, so I will talk to Casita, Honda and whoever else I need to and make sure I get the right equipment for my particular situation.

My Odyssey is rated for 3500 pounds. That's why I'm looking at the 16' instead of the 17'. Would love the extra space and storage but don't want to over do it.

[Jon in AZ]

You don't have to change the vehicle to get the hitch. Honda's OEM hitch is a bolt-on accessory. You can purchase it through a dealer and have them install it, have someone else do it, or do it yourself.

It will be pricier than non-Honda aftermarket hitches. You can decide if the better fit and clearance is worth it.

Pretty sure you want the Honda tranny cooler. Did you check your owner's manual? You might check with Norm (honda03842, post #22 above)- I believe he installed it on his Odyssey.

[Borrego Dave]

Originally Posted by Shelia

I hesitated to post my question because I didn't want to sound stupid. But I knew there were lots of nice people here, willing to help a newbie. I've learned so much already, and still reading.
My Odyssey is rated for 3500 pounds. That's why I'm looking at the 16' instead of the 17'. Would love the extra space and storage but don't want to over do it.

In reality, I'm not sure you would notice the difference in the space and storage going with the 16'er and the 17. The big tongue weight and flat door stand out with the 17 over the 16. Might save you having to buy a new tug also .