Tow Vehicle - Equipment

[Carol H]

Originally Posted by Wayne Collins

Only if it is built in to the rear bumper. Check their web site.

Did and it appears the factory installed hitch receiver does come up and out a cut out in rear bumper putting it a bit higher than an after market hitch would sit. Which is worth getting if clearance is a concern.

[honda03842]

We tow a 1991 Scamp 16 with a 2014 Honda Odyssey. Our hitch was a factory option. It requires approximately 2.5 inch step up to mount the trailer level. The step up does not interfer with anything.

We have the standard 16 inch tires and do not use airbags or other suspension add ons.

The Scamp weighs 2600 lbs and has a tongue weight of about 200 lbs.

For the NL Caravan we carried a Honda Generator behind the third row along with a bottle jack, small compressor and assorted automobile fluids.

The Odyssey had no issues with this load. Bothe the Scam and Odyssey are pretty level on the road. We do use an anti sway bar and a anti 'rattle device.

[Civilguy]

Originally Posted by Jon in AZ

One additional piece of hardware I highly recommend is an anti-rattle device. Most draw bars have some slop in the receiver tube, which makes a lot annoying noises and can damage the receiver tube.

Jon,

That was a very nice post (#2).

I have always been bothered by the apparent slop in my hitches, from towing about 1,500 lbs of loaded teardrop trailer, to perhaps twice that weight with our Casita.

There has always been some push / pull sensation from the trailer on local roads, accompanied by a bit of banging noises. This would improve when I got a steady pull on the trailer at higher speeds and on smoother roads, such as on arterials and the freeway. However, it bothered me enough that I bought a similar hitch tightener, a StowAway brand; it appears to be very substantially built.

However, before I installed the hitch tightener, I realized that there is an adjustment nut underneath the coupler. It was not very loose, but I went ahead and snugged it up to perhaps about 25 ft/lbs, then backed off a trifle so it would not bind or gall.

Surprisingly, to me at least, this minor adjustment took out the vast majority of the slop and banging around that I had previously experienced.

There is definitely some slop between the drawbar and the receiver tube, and there is some additional play between the drawbar and the locking hitch pin too. I can feel this when I am assembling things.

However, apparently the majority of what I could feel from the driver's seat was eliminated by the coupler adjustment. This was so effective that I just towed 800 miles and did not install the tightener; it remains in the trailer in it's original packaging.

Not to hijack the thread here, this was news to me. As so much about trailers and towing still are.

Regarding Casitas tongue weight, mine was 450 lbs coming home last week; it's listed as 365 lbs on the Casita web site (for the 17' Deluxe). Although my tow vehicle is handling it very well, I clearly have more work to do on adjusting the loading.

Regarding jacks, I carry a bottle jack along with an Andersen leveler and some wood blocks. I figure I can drive the flat tire up onto the Andersen to attain enough clearance for the jack if need arises. The Casita (apparently) came from the factory with a small cross-style lug wrench; or perhaps it was left by the previous owner. Regardless, I carry a good quality 1/2"-drive breaker bar, a six-inch extension and sockets. I figure that changing a tire by the roadside is no time to be messing around with marginal tools.

[Bobbie Mayer]

Does anyone use this type lift/drop?

https://www.amazon.com/Towing-Hitch-.../dp/B00EF3SOT2

They come in all kinds of rise/drop amounts (price goes up with distance).

[Civilguy]

Originally Posted by Bobbie Mayer

Does anyone use this type lift/drop?

https://www.amazon.com/Towing-Hitch-.../dp/B00EF3SOT2

They come in all kinds of rise/drop amounts (price goes up with distance).

I've never actually seen one in use. I think it would double your play between the drawbar and the two receiver tubes.

It looks like it might have application for raising the mounting height of a cargo or accessory rack.

[Shelia]

I hesitated to post my question because I didn't want to sound stupid. But I knew there were lots of nice people here, willing to help a newbie. I've learned so much already, and still reading.

I'm paying through the nose for the 2013 Honda. Can't afford to order a new one with a factory hitch, so I will talk to Casita, Honda and whoever else I need to and make sure I get the right equipment for my particular situation.

My Odyssey is rated for 3500 pounds. That's why I'm looking at the 16' instead of the 17'. Would love the extra space and storage but don't want to over do it.

[Jon in AZ]

You don't have to change the vehicle to get the hitch. Honda's OEM hitch is a bolt-on accessory. You can purchase it through a dealer and have them install it, have someone else do it, or do it yourself.

It will be pricier than non-Honda aftermarket hitches. You can decide if the better fit and clearance is worth it.

Pretty sure you want the Honda tranny cooler. Did you check your owner's manual? You might check with Norm (honda03842, post #22 above)- I believe he installed it on his Odyssey.

[Borrego Dave]

Originally Posted by Shelia

I hesitated to post my question because I didn't want to sound stupid. But I knew there were lots of nice people here, willing to help a newbie. I've learned so much already, and still reading.
My Odyssey is rated for 3500 pounds. That's why I'm looking at the 16' instead of the 17'. Would love the extra space and storage but don't want to over do it.

In reality, I'm not sure you would notice the difference in the space and storage going with the 16'er and the 17. The big tongue weight and flat door stand out with the 17 over the 16. Might save you having to buy a new tug also .

[Jon in AZ]

Originally Posted by Bobbie Mayer

Does anyone use this type lift/drop?
[url]https://www.amazon.com/Towing-Hitch-Rise-Adapter-Extension/dp/B00EF3SOT2[/url
They come in all kinds of rise/drop amounts (price goes up with distance).

I think there are two concerns with this type of device. One, as said, you have two connections to add looseness. Two, it puts the ball several inches further back from the bumper. That increases the lever effect of tongue weight on the rear suspension. It also increases the lever effect of side-to-side movements, which could contribute to sway.

[Mr Lynn]

Originally Posted by Civilguy

Jon,

Regarding Casitas tongue weight, mine was 450 lbs coming home last week; it's listed as 365 lbs on the Casita web site (for the 17' Deluxe). Although my tow vehicle is handling it very well, I clearly have more work to do on adjusting the loading. . .

Cg, how did you weigh your (trailer) tongue?

/Mr Lynn

[Civilguy]

Originally Posted by Mr Lynn

Cg, how did you weight your (trailer) tongue?

/Mr Lynn

I have attached a little sketch. Hopefully the sketch will be as effective as it is crude.

Take the observed weight on the scale (90 lbs) and multiply by the total length from the pivot point (3/8" breaker bar at left). This total distance is 1 + 4 = 5 feet.

Then divide the result by the distance from the pivot point to the tongue jack which is 1 foot in this case; (90 lbs X 5 ft) / 1 ft = 450 lbs.

I used a 1 foot distance from the pivot point to the tongue jack in order to simplify the math; 450 ft-lbs / 1 ft = 450 lbs.

This same thing can be done with different board lengths or other dimensions. I used a six foot piece of 2x4 because it was handy and more importantly because I knew it would result in a weight that would not break the wife's bathroom scale.

I also used a scrap of soft terry towel cloth between the 2x6 and the scale to protect it from scratches. These are possibly the most important points to the success of this approach!

Regards,
Mike

[flaco]

I have longer legs so I had to tell the installer 3 times to NOT mount the brake controller where my right knee would hit it. I had it mounted on the drawer front at the bottom of the center console on my 04 Odyssey. Also best to have it done by someone who knows camper wiring not a trailer store. I had to take mine back to the trailer store to rewire it correctly as the interior lights did not work when the van was hooked to my Coleman popup camper with which I use no camper battery. I did have them install an air bag system inside the rear springs which is way lighter than a typical anti sway bar system. I am currently looking at a Parkliner. You may want to check out Parkliner and Scamp 16 as the Casita may be too heavy for the Odyssey. Happy Camping! And see you on the road!

[Mr Lynn]

Civilguy: Thanks for the diagram and explanation!

/Mr Lynn

[Civilguy]

Originally Posted by Mr Lynn

Civilguy: Thanks for the diagram and explanation!

/Mr Lynn

Lynn,

Thinking about this, I forgot to factor in the distance between the coupler and the tongue jack.

I measure about 135" from the center of the wheels to the center of the coupler, and 10 inches back from there to the center of the tongue jack.

So, 450 lbs x 135 inches / 125 inches = about 417 lbs tongue weight.

Unless I forgot something else.

[Jon in AZ]

Originally Posted by Civilguy

...Unless I forgot something else.

Did you zero out the scale after you put all the boards in place?

[Civilguy]

Originally Posted by Jon in AZ

Did you zero out the scale after you put all the boards in place?

Man, that's harsh!

OK, 417 lbs - 4 lbs = 413 lbs.

Going once, going twice, do I hear 410?

[Civilguy]

Originally Posted by Shelia

I have a 2013 Honda Odyssey. I'm planning on buying a 16' Liberty (Casita) . I'm trying to understand the hardware aspect of what I will need.

As far as upgrading my Odyssey, I'll need a transmission cooler, a power steering cooler, wiring harness, hitch and "brackets" as the parts person called them.

For the camper I want to get the high lift axle, the better tires, the friction anti-sway control.

Do I need something for the radiator? I'll get the weight distribution hitch - does that go on the camper or on the tow vehicle?

Not being a mechanical person, I'm really confused by all the hitch-this and hitch-that language. I want to understand and be safe.

Could someone please explain to me the different parts of the hitch, tongue, etc? Pictures are even better.

And I have a jack and spare for my Odyssey but I'll also need a different size jack, won't I, for the Casita? And my understanding is that a full size spare is included with the Casita.

I appreciate your help and advice.

Shelia,

I'll second Bruce on questioning the need for a power steering cooler. The Honda eStore says:

The following list of accessories are required for installation but not included:

Trailer Hitch Harness

Trailer Hitch ATF Cooler

https://estore.honda.com/honda/accessories/view-honda-accessory-detail.asp?m=2013-odyssey-lx-5-speed-automatic&ec=&oc=ODYSS13018&dl=

This site does not mention the radiator needing any accessory. Radiators have come a long ways since we used to sling canvas bags across them in the 60's. I have towed up grades at 103 degrees and watched the needle remain glued to the center of the dial in my vehicle.

The ATF cooler refers to your automatic transmission fluid so it looks to be necessary.

I had a dealer install my hitch because I had read how the electronics in the Audi defeated many aftermarket wiring installers. Hopefully the Honda wiring harness they mention above plugs right in and you can buy one for installation by others but dodge the extra expense of going to the dealer for your installation.

(I strongly advise against the little "clamshell" wiring connectors that are often used by aftermarket installers. UHaul offers a lifetime hitch warranty for $5, but only offers two years of extended protection for wiring. I think that tells us something about clamshell connectors.)

I did enjoy a much better fit with my factory hitch. I won't say that this always holds true for other vehicles, but the aftermarket ones for our vehicle did hang lower and inspire a bit less confidence due to the way they were attached.

And yes, a brake controller is entirely necessary.

I'd also suggest that perfection is sometimes the enemy of good. Weight distribution is a sometimes controversial topic. You may find that you don't need it.

I don't have any direct experience with the Odyssey, but Norm and Ginny have towed their Scamp precisely one bazillion and 12.62 miles as of the last official accounting, so they are a great resource here.

I also recommend the Casita A-Z book. I am impressed with how comprehensive it is. It also neatly sidesteps some of the "controversial subjects" that regularly crop up, simply noting that different opinions do exist. It makes good reading even before you purchase. I still go back and refer to it after a year of ownership.

Sorry we got so side tracked on the weighing the hitch thing. Forums...

[honda03842]

We do not have a power steering cooler. I can't imagine any reason why one would be necessary. Honda does not suggest it. We do have the transmission cooler and the Honda hitch. They will only install the 4 pin connector which is foolish on their part.

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[Civilguy]

Originally Posted by honda03842

We do not have a power steering cooler. I can't imagine any reason why one would be necessary. Honda does not suggest it. We do have the transmission cooler and the Honda hitch. They will only install the 4 pin connector which is foolish on their part.

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Thanks Norm!

Shelia,

A 4-pin adaptor is not enough. Be sure that any wiring you have done is for a 7-pin adaptor.

#5 is necessary to operate electric trailer brakes. #6 will charge your battery while you tow. #7 will either power backup lights, or won't do anything additional.

M

[honda03842]

Absolutely correct a 7 pin is needed. I wired the 7 pin in, they provided the 4 pin.

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