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Old 09-01-2016, 05:47 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by Bobbie Mayer View Post
Does anyone use this type lift/drop?
[url]https://www.amazon.com/Towing-Hitch-Rise-Adapter-Extension/dp/B00EF3SOT2[/url
They come in all kinds of rise/drop amounts (price goes up with distance).
I think there are two concerns with this type of device. One, as said, you have two connections to add looseness. Two, it puts the ball several inches further back from the bumper. That increases the lever effect of tongue weight on the rear suspension. It also increases the lever effect of side-to-side movements, which could contribute to sway.
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Old 09-01-2016, 06:16 AM   #30
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Trailer: 2013 Casita Spirit Deluxe 17, purchased from original owners May, 2016
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Originally Posted by Civilguy View Post
Jon,

Regarding Casitas tongue weight, mine was 450 lbs coming home last week; it's listed as 365 lbs on the Casita web site (for the 17' Deluxe). Although my tow vehicle is handling it very well, I clearly have more work to do on adjusting the loading. . .
Cg, how did you weigh your (trailer) tongue?

/Mr Lynn
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Old 09-01-2016, 09:52 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by Mr Lynn View Post
Cg, how did you weight your (trailer) tongue?

/Mr Lynn
I have attached a little sketch. Hopefully the sketch will be as effective as it is crude.

Take the observed weight on the scale (90 lbs) and multiply by the total length from the pivot point (3/8" breaker bar at left). This total distance is 1 + 4 = 5 feet.

Then divide the result by the distance from the pivot point to the tongue jack which is 1 foot in this case; (90 lbs X 5 ft) / 1 ft = 450 lbs.

I used a 1 foot distance from the pivot point to the tongue jack in order to simplify the math; 450 ft-lbs / 1 ft = 450 lbs.

This same thing can be done with different board lengths or other dimensions. I used a six foot piece of 2x4 because it was handy and more importantly because I knew it would result in a weight that would not break the wife's bathroom scale.

I also used a scrap of soft terry towel cloth between the 2x6 and the scale to protect it from scratches. These are possibly the most important points to the success of this approach!

Regards,
Mike
Attached Thumbnails
Weigh Tongue.jpg  
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Old 09-01-2016, 10:28 AM   #32
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Name: dave
Trailer: looking at Parkliner,04 Honda Odyssey
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Odyssey brake controller and air springs

I have longer legs so I had to tell the installer 3 times to NOT mount the brake controller where my right knee would hit it. I had it mounted on the drawer front at the bottom of the center console on my 04 Odyssey. Also best to have it done by someone who knows camper wiring not a trailer store. I had to take mine back to the trailer store to rewire it correctly as the interior lights did not work when the van was hooked to my Coleman popup camper with which I use no camper battery. I did have them install an air bag system inside the rear springs which is way lighter than a typical anti sway bar system. I am currently looking at a Parkliner. You may want to check out Parkliner and Scamp 16 as the Casita may be too heavy for the Odyssey. Happy Camping! And see you on the road!
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Old 09-01-2016, 03:04 PM   #33
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Civilguy: Thanks for the diagram and explanation!

/Mr Lynn
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Old 09-01-2016, 04:04 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by Mr Lynn View Post
Civilguy: Thanks for the diagram and explanation!

/Mr Lynn
Lynn,

Thinking about this, I forgot to factor in the distance between the coupler and the tongue jack.

I measure about 135" from the center of the wheels to the center of the coupler, and 10 inches back from there to the center of the tongue jack.

So, 450 lbs x 135 inches / 125 inches = about 417 lbs tongue weight.

Unless I forgot something else.
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Old 09-01-2016, 04:32 PM   #35
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...Unless I forgot something else.
Did you zero out the scale after you put all the boards in place?
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Old 09-01-2016, 04:37 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by Jon in AZ View Post
Did you zero out the scale after you put all the boards in place?
Man, that's harsh!

OK, 417 lbs - 4 lbs = 413 lbs.

Going once, going twice, do I hear 410?
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Old 09-01-2016, 04:48 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by Shelia View Post
I have a 2013 Honda Odyssey. I'm planning on buying a 16' Liberty (Casita) . I'm trying to understand the hardware aspect of what I will need.

As far as upgrading my Odyssey, I'll need a transmission cooler, a power steering cooler, wiring harness, hitch and "brackets" as the parts person called them.

For the camper I want to get the high lift axle, the better tires, the friction anti-sway control.

Do I need something for the radiator? I'll get the weight distribution hitch - does that go on the camper or on the tow vehicle?

Not being a mechanical person, I'm really confused by all the hitch-this and hitch-that language. I want to understand and be safe.

Could someone please explain to me the different parts of the hitch, tongue, etc? Pictures are even better.

And I have a jack and spare for my Odyssey but I'll also need a different size jack, won't I, for the Casita? And my understanding is that a full size spare is included with the Casita.

I appreciate your help and advice.
Shelia,

I'll second Bruce on questioning the need for a power steering cooler. The Honda eStore says:

The following list of accessories are required for installation but not included:
Trailer Hitch Harness
Trailer Hitch ATF Cooler

https://estore.honda.com/honda/accessories/view-honda-accessory-detail.asp?m=2013-odyssey-lx-5-speed-automatic&ec=&oc=ODYSS13018&dl=

This site does not mention the radiator needing any accessory. Radiators have come a long ways since we used to sling canvas bags across them in the 60's. I have towed up grades at 103 degrees and watched the needle remain glued to the center of the dial in my vehicle.

The ATF cooler refers to your automatic transmission fluid so it looks to be necessary.

I had a dealer install my hitch because I had read how the electronics in the Audi defeated many aftermarket wiring installers. Hopefully the Honda wiring harness they mention above plugs right in and you can buy one for installation by others but dodge the extra expense of going to the dealer for your installation.

(I strongly advise against the little "clamshell" wiring connectors that are often used by aftermarket installers. UHaul offers a lifetime hitch warranty for $5, but only offers two years of extended protection for wiring. I think that tells us something about clamshell connectors.)

I did enjoy a much better fit with my factory hitch. I won't say that this always holds true for other vehicles, but the aftermarket ones for our vehicle did hang lower and inspire a bit less confidence due to the way they were attached.

And yes, a brake controller is entirely necessary.

I'd also suggest that perfection is sometimes the enemy of good. Weight distribution is a sometimes controversial topic. You may find that you don't need it.

I don't have any direct experience with the Odyssey, but Norm and Ginny have towed their Scamp precisely one bazillion and 12.62 miles as of the last official accounting, so they are a great resource here.

I also recommend the Casita A-Z book. I am impressed with how comprehensive it is. It also neatly sidesteps some of the "controversial subjects" that regularly crop up, simply noting that different opinions do exist. It makes good reading even before you purchase. I still go back and refer to it after a year of ownership.

Sorry we got so side tracked on the weighing the hitch thing. Forums...
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Old 09-01-2016, 05:17 PM   #38
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We do not have a power steering cooler. I can't imagine any reason why one would be necessary. Honda does not suggest it. We do have the transmission cooler and the Honda hitch. They will only install the 4 pin connector which is foolish on their part.

Sent from my SM-N920T using Fiberglass RV mobile app
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Old 09-01-2016, 05:29 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by honda03842 View Post
We do not have a power steering cooler. I can't imagine any reason why one would be necessary. Honda does not suggest it. We do have the transmission cooler and the Honda hitch. They will only install the 4 pin connector which is foolish on their part.

Sent from my SM-N920T using Fiberglass RV mobile app
Thanks Norm!

Shelia,

A 4-pin adaptor is not enough. Be sure that any wiring you have done is for a 7-pin adaptor.

#5 is necessary to operate electric trailer brakes. #6 will charge your battery while you tow. #7 will either power backup lights, or won't do anything additional.

M
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Old 09-01-2016, 06:19 PM   #40
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Absolutely correct a 7 pin is needed. I wired the 7 pin in, they provided the 4 pin.

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