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Old 06-25-2016, 06:11 PM   #21
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Name: Steve
Trailer: 2018, 21ft escape— 2019 Ram 1500 Laramie
NW Wisconsin
Posts: 4,500
[QUOTE=Mike Magee;594984]
Do you see anything wrong with towing a 1500-1800 lb. Scamp 13' with a 2000 lb rated vehicle?


As my Father used to day " Just because something isn't wrong doesn't make it right" .
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Old 06-25-2016, 08:15 PM   #22
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Trailer: 2004 13 ft Scamp Custom Deluxe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steve dunham View Post
It's the same thing everytime this subject comes up on any FG forum. Some choose to follow the engineering / towing specs supplied by the vehicle manufacturerer and other choose to totally ignore them for whatever reason. That's why no matter what trailer and tow vehicle you ask about someone will claim it's NO problem.
I am sure if you ask about towing a 28 ft Airstream with a Mini Cooper ,you will get a positive response from someone.
.Evidently the laws of physics don't apply to FG trailer ,never understood why. I towed my Scamp 16 with a 1/2 ton Dodge truck V6 and my towing experience was exactly the same as yours.
Maybe I needed to tow with a 4 cylinder to solve the problem ?
Problem is some refuse to believe the ratings and insist on gross overkill, which in effect denies the very purpose of lightweight fiberglass RVs.
I often wonder ... If a 3/4T diesel or big block V8 is needed to tow a small fiberglass trailer at 60MPH , just what is needed to tow the typical 30ft toyhauler at 75?
A one pound fudge on a 1500 pound tow rating strictly due to engine displacement, is often seen as an existential threat to civilization, with no credit given to good driving habits and no credit given to common sense.
As a counterpoint to your Mini Cooper comment...
If you dared to tow a teardrop with a Freightliner someone would surely accuse you of attempted genocide or abject irresponsibility for not have a large enough TV to be safe.

So why is it that those who preach the most about following the manufacturer's tow ratings also insist that the manufacturer's ratings are not valid?

A little common sense will tell you that these are both a little ridiculous...
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Old 06-25-2016, 08:43 PM   #23
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Name: Beverly
Trailer: Scamp
Ohio
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Thank you all for the advise on the towing capacity of our cars. We have a lot of info now and are thankful for your knowledge.

Jeff & Bev

P.s. Jeff likes the pictures and says that the only thing missing is an Amish buggy.
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Old 06-25-2016, 10:41 PM   #24
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Name: Mike
Trailer: 2012 Escape 19
Oklahoma
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Indeed, the horse-drawn buggy is inherently dangerous due to the tug's short hoofbase and the trailer's lack of a break-away switch!

(and a mere 1 HP engine, too!)
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Old 06-26-2016, 04:24 AM   #25
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Name: Henry
Trailer: BigFoot
Tennessee
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Buy the trailer you want, otherwise you will not be satisfied, and will want to upgrade. Hook it to your TV. Take it for a drive to the nearest big hill and interstate for a test drive. Will it go up hill at a speed you want without overheating, does it go down hill without overtaxing your brakes?

I lent my Casita 17' to a friend to test his Tacoma out, and he found it to be just right.

I have a Tundra 5.7L. Having been through the Rockies and the Appalachians, and encountered unpaved steep mountain roads, I prefer my rig.

Be careful and be safe.

The life you save may be mine.
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Old 06-26-2016, 04:49 AM   #26
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Name: Norm and Ginny
Trailer: Scamp 16
Florida
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beverly Korn View Post
Just retired and we are planning a trip out West and are looking for a small camper. We own a 4 cylinder Jeep Patriot (4x4) and a 4 cylinder Nissan Rogue SL AWD.
Would we be able to tow a 13' Scamp? (adding transmission cooler of course)

There are small pop-ups that will work but a self-contained unit would be far better if we can find one that can be safely towed.

Thanks
Jeff and Bev
If I had a choice of a single factor it would be brakes on the Scamp 13. Brakes are not standard on the 13 but always a good investment. Secondarily though you may be towing with your 'everyday vehicle' when towing drive conscious of the fact that you have the extra weight behind.

For example with a big downgrade slow down at the top of the hill, if there are anxious people behind you pull over and let them pass. Drive like you were a passenger with your kids driving, whispering in their ear conscious thoughts. Nothing beats a conscious driver.

Though we towed with what many consider a lightweight tow vehicle, we did many little things to insure a successful tow. There are many little things you can do that make a successful tow no matter the tow vehicle.
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2014 Honda Odyssey
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Old 06-26-2016, 10:35 AM   #27
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Name: Ellpea
Trailer: 1989 Lil Bigfoot
CA
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Just to clarify, the Lil Bigfoot does not exceed the Volvo's recommended tow or tongue weight, although brakes are recommended for trailers over 1300 lbs, which ours is (and we now have 10" brakes on the new axle).

We (I) researched this issue (should we tow with the Volvo) carefully before buying a trailer, but were really uncertain about how well it would perform in the mountains until we actually towed through them.


I'm kind of surprised that others have felt lugged down in mountain terrain while towing with what should be heftier vehicles than mine, but again, everyone's experience is different. Maybe our turbo makes a difference?
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Old 06-26-2016, 04:48 PM   #28
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Name: Mike
Trailer: 2012 Escape 19
Oklahoma
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Ellpea, I think part of it is psychological. When people hear the engine turning at higher RPMs than normal, they think they are straining the engine. In reality, engines are fine at 4000 RPM or even higher (up to redline, which varies) and the faster revs are what generate the torque needed to climb grades with the extra weight in tow. But a turbo causes an engine to generate the higher torque without revving so fast, plus it doesn't lose power due to thin air like a normally aspirated engine will (2-3% per 1000 feet of altitude); so the turbo owner feels amazed at how easily their vehicle went up the mountain. The non-turbo engine isn't necessarily struggling (although at high altitude maybe it is), but it sounds as though it is working its tail off.
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Old 06-27-2016, 07:45 AM   #29
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Name: Jon
Trailer: 2008 Scamp 13 S1
Arizona
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The transmission is often the weak link, not the engine. I note both Floyd and Norm tow(ed) their Scamps (13D and 16, respectively) with 4 cylinders and manual transmissions. They are not subject to the same overheating issues as automatics when climbing long grades at higher RPMs. I believe the Jeep has a CVT automatic.

Another factor that hasn't been mentioned is frontal area. A 1600 pound Scamp is not the same as a 1600 pound tent trailer. Not sure, but I recall someone reporting that tow ratings under the new SAE standards assume 30 sq. ft. frontal area*. A Scamp 13 is more like 45 sq. ft.

A 4 cylinder automatic with a 2000 pound tow rating would probably pull a lightly optioned and loaded Scamp 13 satisfactorily in low elevation, relatively flat terrain at conservative speeds. If it doesn't already have one, an auxiliary transmission fluid cooler would be worth discussing with your mechanic along with the general durability and reliability of the transmission in this vehicle. I would want something more robust for mountain and high elevation towing. I would also want something more robust if I planned to check every option box on the build sheet.

As to attitudes and expectations, I take the position that towing a trailer requires accepting a slower pace of travel (regardless of cylinder count, transmission type, tow rating, vehicle brand or nation of origin, gender or eye color,... ). Even on flat, rural interstates in ideal conditions, towing speeds should be limited to 65 mph, and on long and/or steep grades trailers belong with the trucks in the right lane. Some states mandate slower speeds when towing.

*EDIT- Did some checking. Looks like the SAE J2807 towing standard for trailers in the 2000 pound class only assumes 20 sq. ft. frontal area. Here's an excerpt and a link to my source:
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SAE J2807 Towing Standard
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