Tower novice - Car badly affected - help please... - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 06-25-2013, 01:38 PM   #15
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Name: george
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The reason I ask about the age of the axle is, if it's original, it's in need of replacement.
When diagnosing and fixing problems it's always best to get all known normal consumable items up to snuff first, and then fine tune out any remaining issues. To do so otherwise is simply covering up one problem with a "solution" that may be less than ideal.
Get the basic foundation right, then build from there.
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Old 06-25-2013, 03:04 PM   #16
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I disagree that the axle should automatically be replaced.

The original Rub-R-Ride on my 1978 4500 is in very good shape, and I myself have put over forty thousand miles on it-some of that over rough roads- since I got the trailer in 2005. Who knows how many miles it had up to that point...

I think the problems described in the opening post are likely ALL due to the too-high ball. Get that puppy level, take it out for a spin, and report back.

Francesca
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Old 06-25-2013, 03:08 PM   #17
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I replaced the axle on my 1978 4500, based on exactly the same, "it is over 30 years old" rational. In retrospect, it did not need to be replaced, but I needed more capacity then the stock 2000 lbs. anyway.
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Old 06-25-2013, 04:32 PM   #18
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Well obviously, the axle replacement will be considered if required.
But for now, I'm going to do my homework & follow Roy's recipe.
More soon..... I'm recruiting heavy friends!! lol

Franck
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Old 06-25-2013, 04:58 PM   #19
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Just hum the Hollies tune: He ain't heavy - he's my brother ... as you do it
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Old 06-25-2013, 04:59 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by franck2cv View Post
Well obviously, the axle replacement will be considered if required.
But for now, I'm going to do my homework & follow Roy's recipe.
More soon..... I'm recruiting heavy friends!! lol

Franck
Buy some beer, they'll show up. Raz
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Old 06-25-2013, 05:14 PM   #21
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Name: Ron
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Originally Posted by Francesca Knowles View Post
I disagree that the axle should automatically be replaced.


I think the problems described in the opening post are likely ALL due to the too-high ball. Get that puppy level, take it out for a spin, and report back.

Francesca
Well I agree with you on the first point, automatic replacement without establishing the cause of the current situation, isn't the way to go.

I disagree with you on the second point. My monies on too little tongue weight.

A really quick, not scientific at all, way of seeing if the tongue weight is even in the ball park is to try and lift it up by hand. Within reason of course. If you can lift it easily then my monies really on too little tongue weight.
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Old 06-25-2013, 05:42 PM   #22
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We're sorta saying the same thing, Ron: towing tongue-high has the effect of lowering tongue weight, changing as it does the center of gravity.

Francesca
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Old 06-26-2013, 04:40 PM   #23
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OK... thank you again for both : opinion and good humour

Here's a bunch of pictures that speak for themselves.
I now have the straight ball mount (no more rise). I test driven the lot this am and..... well: Disappointing. I notice a difference in the intensity of the shake but not much really.

Those bits of metal sticking out of the hitch are just cheap kitchen knives I wedged in to stop the knocks! Also note that I'm planning to change those chain and hooks!!.... they don't exactly look safe to me!

I still have to measure the road clearance with fully compressed suspension. Should the wheel be balanced? I can't see any lead on mine!

Tire pressure: 32 psi

Tongue weight: Measured with a body scale. Jockey wheel resting on it.
Seems very heavy to me!.... The scale displayed 105 kg (231 lbs)
which exceeds the max tongue weight of my hitch!

I now leave it to your expertise!
Attached Thumbnails
axle_1.jpg   axle_2.jpg  

connection_1.jpg   connection_2.jpg  

ground_clearance_stabilizer_front.jpg   ground_clearance.jpg  

tires.jpg   w124_trillium_1.jpg  

w124_trillium_2.jpg   w124_trillium_3.jpg  

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Old 06-26-2013, 05:01 PM   #24
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Just for kicks why don't you take the wheels down and have them high speed balanced? If there is an issue with tire shape, seating, rim geometry, lug nuts tight or not, wheels mounting correctly on the trailer, etc, it should be apparent. At least you will know the wheels are not contributing to the problem.
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Old 06-26-2013, 05:09 PM   #25
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Good grief- passenger car tires!




I can tell you from my own experience that those have got to go....my Trillium had brand new such tires when I got it and handling was a nightmare. In fact changing those to ST's solved the only handling problems I've ever had with the Trillium other than those self-inflicted by improper loading.

Per checking the axle- I recommend steps described beginning in post number 55 in this thread. Pretty straightforward...

Per tongue weight- that IS high for a 1300, though its impact on handling would tend toward the good side except that it might be lifting your tug's front end.

I will say that the A-frame add-on jack probably adds at least ten pounds at exactly the wrong place weight-wise. Looks like the trailer also has front stabilizers, not stock and good for another twenty pounds or so.

Francesca
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Old 06-26-2013, 05:10 PM   #26
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OK, so I get some egg on my face this time, I was sure that the tongue weight was going to be on the low side

I re-read your original post. I took the term "badly shaken" to mean that when you went over some bumps it was as though a giant hand reached down, grabbed your rear bumper, and bounced the rear of your tug up and down. Is that what you meant by "badly shaken"?

Also, a tire pressure of 32psi seems low to me. Mine are inflated to 50psi which is the manufacturers recommendation.
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Old 06-26-2013, 05:37 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron in BC View Post

Also, a tire pressure of 32psi seems low to me. Mine are inflated to 50psi which is the manufacturers recommendation.
He's got P-metrics on the darn thing- and radials to boot. Way too flabby for this trailer....and 50 psi might blow those puppies off the rims; 32's probably their limit.

ST's would dramatically improve handling, as noted in my earlier post.

Side note:

It looks to me like there are no brakes on the trailer- in my opinion, that's too much trailer for that particular car to be towing without them. Pulling is one thing- stopping is something different, especially with such a light tug.


Francesca
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Old 06-26-2013, 05:57 PM   #28
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First off, remove the knives, not only for your tire safety but as well as for anyone behind you. Take wooden shims or use tape, but a knife blade on the highway becomes a dangerous projectile. Here is a linkk for the proper tool etrailer.com - Hitch Accessories Products hitch rattle
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