Tower novice - Car badly affected - help please... - Page 5 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 06-27-2013, 03:50 PM   #57
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Originally Posted by David Tilston View Post
It sounds like the axle is failed in a way that I was not aware that they could fail, (too stiff? seized?).
I've always thought that was the prime reason affecting the lifespan of a torsion axle. Too stiff and siezed. If you think about it both the spring and damping rely on the rubber. When rubber gets old, it gets stiff. If the trailer is not stored properly, i.e. weight supported off the axle, the stiffness results in a permanent distorion of the rubber. When things get too stiff it is like having no suspension at all. The forces then get transfered to both the trailer and the tow vehicle.
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Old 06-27-2013, 04:16 PM   #58
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Get the wheels balanced.

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Old 06-27-2013, 04:43 PM   #59
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This got me wondering if it might be possible that the given combination of factors might just be helping to swing the pendulum further. Much like the Tacoma Narrows Bridge many of us learned in high school. Or when we tow on the highways that are essentially a series of flat concrete slabs. Hit the right speed and the trailer really rocks the tow vehicle.
Good thinking, Roy.

I have heard of some air suspension systems "fighting" trailers, because their response time is not well suited to the frequency of load changes by the trailer.

The way to test this would be to hook up the trailer, let the suspension auto-level, and then disable further changes. How to disable the suspension auto-leveling will depend on the details of the design, but some Mercedes expert probably may have quick, easy, and completely reversible way to do that.


I suspect that this is likely still a matter of how the car is handling a fundamentally rough trailer, but improving any component of the system will help.
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Old 06-27-2013, 09:48 PM   #60
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Get the wheels balanced.

jack
...Much too simple, Jack!

What ever are you thinking?

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Old 06-28-2013, 02:37 AM   #61
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Maybe replace the passenger car tires and then balance? But really, from an ill-fitting stinger to a convocation of synergistic phenomena in five pages? What a ride!

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Old 06-28-2013, 02:44 AM   #62
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I agree with Jack, with all these suggestions made in 5 pages, there are too many variables involved. So you start with the basic and go from there.
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Old 06-28-2013, 11:22 AM   #63
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Get the wheels balanced.
Certainly couldn't hurt, and if there is an imbalance fixing it might make the real problem more clearly apparent.

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Much too simple, Jack!
I agree
Tire imbalance would explain nothing about how the trailer goes over bumps.
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Old 06-28-2013, 11:33 AM   #64
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Tire imbalance would explain nothing about how the trailer goes over bumps.
It also would not explain the 1/2" deflection between loaded and completely unloaded.
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Old 06-28-2013, 11:40 AM   #65
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You can replace the P tires with new ST tires but I would bet dollars to doughnuts you would find it has nothing to do with your problem.

There is a growing trend to get away from using ST tires on trailers because of the negative/quality issues.

It would really be nice to isolate the problem. Someone suggested hitching up the trailer to another vehicle to see if the problem stays with the trailer. I like that idea.
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Old 06-28-2013, 11:57 AM   #66
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It would really be nice to isolate the problem. Someone suggested hitching up the trailer to another vehicle to see if the problem stays with the trailer. I like that idea.
I like that idea, too.

How about the converse as well: borrow or rent a comparably sized trailer, and see if the car has the same problem with it.
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Old 06-28-2013, 12:51 PM   #67
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It would really be nice to isolate the problem. Someone suggested hitching up the trailer to another vehicle to see if the problem stays with the trailer. I like that idea.
LOL So Happy to hear you & Brian finally agree with something I said! Who would of thought that could ever happen!
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Old 06-28-2013, 01:38 PM   #68
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Oh my..... 5 pages already!! .... and I was hoping for a couple of tips!!

I too like the idea of towing with a different car. I could try with my girlfriend's Subaru Legacy I suppose. It's not wired, but it driving to the end of the street and back would be enough to feel the difference if any.
I can't think of anyone close by who owns a Hitch fitted vehicle!

Towing an other trailer (similar size & weight) could be an option too.
Anybody on this forum close to where we live: J4M1P6 ?

Propane cover: Got one! I didn't bother just to go round the block

Hydropneumatic: In Europe, often associated with Citroen, this set-up is considered to be the best thing to have when towing. I clearly don't see why this would be a problem on our side of the pond.
That made me think.... The engine was not running when I shot the pictures. The rear end had probably sag by an inch then.

Tomorrow, I'm going to take both car and Trillium to an RV specialist a few miles from us to hear what he has to say. Before so, I will take a picture of the axle with the wheel off (as suggested earlier). and proceed with the Subaru test!

Should I need to replace the axle, I'll grab the opportunity to fit electric brakes as well. ..... a few weeks ago, before buying our Trillium, I opened a debate on the 'Timbren' alternative. I still like the idea very much!

Have a great week end
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Old 06-28-2013, 02:49 PM   #69
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Man that is a nice looking set up!
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Old 06-28-2013, 03:11 PM   #70
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Hydropneumatic: In Europe, often associated with Citroen, this set-up is considered to be the best thing to have when towing. I clearly don't see why this would be a problem on our side of the pond.
Perhaps due to relatively high hitch load, rapidly changing due to the relatively short trailer. I agree that the car's auto-levelling suspension is not the most likely source of the reported problem.

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Should I need to replace the axle, I'll grab the opportunity to fit electric brakes as well.
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