Towing a Scamp 13 with a 4cyl Subaru - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 10-05-2011, 05:10 PM   #29
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Neutral?

I know nothing about the CVT. Is there a neutral that you shift into at lights and the like?

Thank you
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Old 10-05-2011, 06:45 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by honda03842
I know nothing about the CVT. Is there a neutral that you shift into at lights and the like?

Thank you
There is a neutral, but it has a torque converter like a traditional auto, so no need to do anything special when stopped. Power is transmitted via a beefy steel belt. Both pulleys can change diameter to create any gear ratio.
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Old 10-05-2011, 07:01 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by mcbrew View Post
There is a neutral, but it has a torque converter like a traditional auto, so no need to do anything special when stopped. Power is transmitted via a beefy steel belt. Both pulleys can change diameter to create any gear ratio.


I guess I don't understand what happens when you take your foot off the gas at speed; I guess it just slides down to a lower gear some how seeking an efficient engine operating point though with no gas being fed above idle flow it must gradually slip to idle speed, not stoping until you step on the brake. It seems this would effectively brake the vehicle.

I also read about people causing neutral to occur as they are driving down hills, virtually stopping gas delivery to the engine and coasting.

It's been a decade since I've driven an automatic car. I guess I'll have to go to the Suburau dealer and drive a CVT.
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Old 10-05-2011, 07:40 PM   #32
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This is great to know about the Outback! We are figuring on putting another year or two on our 03 Forester, and an Outback is the next likely car candidate.
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Old 10-05-2011, 08:31 PM   #33
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The Subaru CVT trans does a better job of engine braking than any automatic I have owned. No fuel is delivered when the engine is being over-run by the wheels. You can manually shift with paddle shifters, but they are "virtual" gears with pre-determined pulley ratios. Works very well for more aggressive engine braking.

Let me just say that I am also very impressed with their AWD system. There is always power to all four wheels, and the system predicts where power should be distributed [I]before[I] there is a loss of traction. Unlike many other systems where traction loss must first occur before any torque is sent to the other (usually rear) wheels. Check out some of Subaru's comparison testing of their cars and other brands of AWD cars/small SUVs on an inclined treadmill. Subaru All Wheel Drive Traction Testing - YouTube
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Old 10-05-2011, 10:47 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by Ken in SW VA View Post
Hi, are you still towing your '16 with your Outback? We are considering a loaded '13 to tow with our 4 cylinder '09 Outback. Does your '16 have a shower and/or A/C?

Thanks,
Ken
Ken,
I frequently tow my 16 Scamp with my 2.5 Subaru automatic in GA (rolling hills), AL, and FL. My Scamp has the side dinette and front shower/toilet, plus A/C. It handles well and I feel secure driving it. I'll actually be using my truck this next trip though, only because I need to carry more weight than normal and may need to carry more in the black and gray tanks than normal, which increases the total weight and is likely to cause my tongue weight to greatly exceed the 200 lb Subaru limit.
As long as I can keep my loaded weight under 2500 lbs and my tongue weight at about 200 lbs (Outback limits are 2700/200) then I'm fine towing with my Subaru. It's a good stable and sure-footed tow vehicle.
I have electric brakes (Tekonsha Prodigy) and added a trans cooler. The cooling system must work well, since the temp gauge stays in the same area whether towing or solo.
The Subaru (as does most vehicles) does require more frequent oil changes when towing, and mine also requires running a heavier weight oil than standard, per the manual.
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Old 10-05-2011, 11:46 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by mcbrew View Post
There is always power to all four wheels, and the system predicts where power should be distributed [I]before[I] there is a loss of traction. Unlike many other systems where traction loss must first occur before any torque is sent to the other (usually rear) wheels. Check out some of Subaru's comparison testing of their cars and other brands of AWD cars/small SUVs on an inclined treadmill. Subaru All Wheel Drive Traction Testing - YouTube

I'm on my 3rd Outback and the traction system is the #1 reason!
I have never felt unsafe driving up a mountain on a road covered with lots of snow. I also live on the side of a mountain where when it snows it is very common to see other SUV, trucks and cars that due to their price tags one would think they should be having little to know problems on our street. Wrong. I love my Subaru as it has never let me down.

Its due to the amazing job it does in the snow that I am really struggling with what to replace it with in order to get a bit more tow cap so it can tow a slightly heavier trailer I have my eye one. Hate the thought of having to give up the great traction of the Outback.
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Old 10-06-2011, 08:19 PM   #36
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So, I bought my Subaru Outback about a month ago. It is a 4-cylinder 2.5i Premium (170hp/170tq). I towed the Scamp for the first time today. Just about 60 miles. No mountains, but some small hills. It towed beautifully! I towed it before, as many of you know, with a 2009 Scion xD. I thought it towed pretty well with the xD, but it is a night and day difference! The CVT transmission is great -- you can set the cruise control and there is no shifting... the RPMs just go up if more power is needed, then go down when it isn't. The most it ever went up to was about 3,000 RPMs at 60 MPH. On flat ground, it went down to 1,600 RPMs or so. No jerky shifting or gear "hunting" like traditional automatics. Really smooth.

I can't wait to take it on a real camping trip in two weeks!
I will be very interested in hearing how it goes. I've wondered about the CVT, thinking it could be great or it might have difficulty with the added weight. Good luck.
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Old 10-17-2011, 11:13 PM   #37
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We Scamped at Patapsco Valley State Park in Maryland last weekend. The Subaru towed wonderfully, although I need (and just ordered) an anti-rattle device for the hitch. There is just too much play in the receiver.

As we arrived, it had just finished raining, and the road in the park was covered with wet leaves. There was a pretty steep down, the up hill. I was glad I had AWD, although I'm sure I could have done it without. However, I was impressed how well the Outback pulled the Scamp up that very steep hill.

By the way, I also got a chance to use my hitch camera, which is then Master Lock brand. I am pleased with it. It is wireless (more or less). The camera plugs into the car's 4-way trailer connection for power, and the monitor plugs into a 12v outlet. As many reviews have mentioned, the picture is clearer if you then off any Bluetooth devices.

I got 23 MPG on this tank, which included some non-towing miles. I did drive rather aggressively to get a good feel for the car/trailer combo.
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Old 10-18-2011, 07:16 AM   #38
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Jesse,
Would you explain the anti-rattle device more fully or maybe add a picture?

I'm not sure I understand the benefit. I will Google it.

Thank you
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Old 10-18-2011, 07:29 AM   #39
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Jesse,

I did google it and found there are a wide variety of these devices. Here's a good example with a video. What do you preceive the benefit to be other than rattle elimination?

Roadmaster Quiet Hitch for 2" Trailer Hitches Roadmaster Hitch Accessories RM-061
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Old 10-18-2011, 10:44 AM   #40
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I've heard tapping a chunk of wood between the receiver and hitch... like a wedge also dampens the noise... it's a lot cheaper and replaceable too
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Old 10-18-2011, 12:53 PM   #41
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My thoughts about anti-rattle devices and their need or NOT.
My insert has quite a bit of movement in the receiver when the trailer is not connected. Most of the movement is up and down, the pin restricts most of the side to side movement. Once hitched the up and down movement is generally stopped by the weight of the tongue. When everything is good the tongue weight holds the insert in place, no rattle. Once in a great while when going over a speed bump, or through a gas station apron I will hear a sound if I'm going to fast. It makes a nice reminder to slow down over this places. Therefore I don't feel the need to do anything to stop the "rattle".
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Old 10-18-2011, 01:32 PM   #42
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I bought Roadmaster's version today, not necessarily to eliminate the rattle but rather to see what that connection is like when it's further stiffened. Simply curiosity I guess.

Actually before McBrew's post I had never heard of an ant-rattle device.
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