Transmission Oil Change - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 01-29-2016, 06:48 PM   #15
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I follow the "severe service" interval for transmission fluids on my Dodge and Subaru and use the factory fluid just so I don't get something that isn't quite right since there are so many types out there now.
I change my engine oil and filter every 5,000 miles with synthetic oil using the grade specified for towing (My Subaru requires a higher viscosity when towing).
I still do my own changes after a bad experience at a quick lube place.
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Old 01-29-2016, 09:35 PM   #16
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My first lumina apv had about 200,000 kilometers when I changed the tranny fluid. I got another 160,000km. Before the body shop burnt it. My second apv had 375,000km, never had the fluids changed. I never had trouble with either one. My envoy has 225000km, haven't touched it yet either. When I had my Hyundai excel, the shop changed the fluid when the car was at about 375,000km. I made it about 15km, and the tranny quit working
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Old 01-29-2016, 09:49 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alice L View Post
The manual suggests 30,000 miles for tranny oil changes, cost seems high at around $200. Not sure why the high price when the materials aren't too expensive. But, like the man said, 'pay now or pay later.' Guess I'll pony up. I like the vehicle and want it to last. They don't make v6's in the Rav since 2013.
Alice that is the same as what they use to charge me to change the transmission fluid on my Subaru Outback as well.

When I pulled with the Outback I did have the transmission fluid changed each year due to the large number of towing miles I was putting on the car as well as due to the weight of the trailer - close to its tow limit. The reason for the high cost was the price of the transmission fluid that was recommended by the vehicle manufacturer. I looked into buying some and doing it myself but it turned out the fluid was pricey and about 75% of the total cost.... so I had them do it.

As has been mentioned not all vehicles take the same transmission fluid. Not only are the colours different so is the pricing of it.

My current truck fortunatly takes a much less expensive transmission fluid and much easier to change then the Outback.
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Old 01-29-2016, 11:26 PM   #18
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Got away for $150 for engine and tranny oil change. The service dept. Recommended 40-45k miles for tranny. Had just a "drain and fill" done, not the "force flush". At least if anything goes wrong less than 100k miles it's covered under warranty. Not sure if oils were synthetic or not. Counting on dealer to know correct type. Thanks for all the info.

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Old 01-30-2016, 07:53 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by Captleemo View Post
With this Tacoma I started to shift the automatic transmission into neutral whenever I'm at a red light as I believe it reduces wear and tear on the transmission.
Actually, it's the opposite.
When you're waiting at a red light in gear, there is absolutely no wear on the transmission. The torque converter is slipping, and that causes no mechanical wear at all.
Wear occurs when gears are selected. When a gear engages, there is a slight wear on the clutch pack every time, just like when you let go the clutch on a manual. It only lasts a split second.Once the gear is engaged, there is no wear. When the engine is under load (ex: accelerating) this wear is more important. Of course it normally takes thousands or millions gears shifts to wear out a transmission, and when the engine is idling the wear is minimal, but still, shifting from D to N or N to D for no reason engages and releases the 1st gear clutch, and not only offers absolutely no benefit it actually causes unnecessary wear.

Regarding the torque converter slipping: in an automatic, the torque converter is what replaces the clutch found in manual transmissions, it links the engine with the transmission and the rest of the gear train. Imagine two ventilation fans facing each other. You turn one fan ON, the other will spin too (a bit slower) because of the airflow. Torque converter works the same, except the fans are a turbine and an impeller and they sit in the transmission fluid. The engine spins the turbine, which drives the impeller and the transmission, creating an hydraulic coupling between the engine and the drivetrain. This "soft" coupling allows the turbine and impeller (the engine and transmission) to spin at different speeds and makes smoother gear shifts. When you're stopped at a right light in gear, the turbine spins but since you are not moving the impeller doesn't. There is no contact or direct link between the two, there is no wear, it's just the oil circulating around.

In a word: shifting in N at stop lights is not a good idea.
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Old 01-30-2016, 08:13 AM   #20
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Lots of Toyotas here it seems.
Not all vehicles have a drain plug on the transmission pan, but mine has (Highlander). I'm glad for it because removing the pan is much more difficult on my vehicle. There are a couple bolts on the pan that are just behind a crossmember and are very hard to remove.

Unlike engine oil, draining the transmission pan doesn't drain all the ATF. There is still some that remains in the torque converter and in the pan itself (the drain hole is recessed). On mine I can drain about 75% of the ATF.

I've done it once (the fluid was noticeably dark), refilled, drove the vehicle for one week, then drained and refilled again. So I've replaced over 90% of the fluid, which is now bright red. That was 2 years ago, I intend to do it once again next spring. I used Mobil 3309 ATF, which is the equivalent of Toyota's Type IV ATF.

A drain and refill is pretty simple, similar to an engine oil change. Lots of videos on Youtube that explains the procedure for various vehicles.
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Old 01-30-2016, 10:03 AM   #21
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To preserve the warranty and longevity of the vehicle, you cant go wrong on following the manufactures guidelines.
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