Trillium 1300's and Axles - Fiberglass RV


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Old 11-18-2016, 05:35 AM   #1
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Name: Janice & Rick
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Trillium 1300's and Axles

We are looking into the safety of hauling distances. Can someone please advise us on how to determine if the axle is indeed safe and in good condition? We recently learned that the body would have to be removed in order to replace an axle. Hoping to hear scads of information. I have searched the forum, to the best of my ability, to find axle info for the Trillium - seems to be more for Bolers? Perhaps they are easier to repair?

Thanks in advance!!
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Old 11-18-2016, 07:23 AM   #2
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To determine if the axle is in good condition, jack up one side of the trailer (on the frame just behind the axle). Watch to see if the axle arms swing down as the frame rises. Little or no movement indicates a dead axle.

A dead axle is not unsafe to tow, as long as the bearings are in good condition. It will have a harsher ride, bounce a bit more, but there is no reason you couldn't bring it home that way.

The safety issue you do need to be concerned about is the shell-to-frame attachment. A scary number of posters have reported discovering their shell was hanging on only by one or two rusted out bolts. I'm not that familiar with Trilliums, but I'd want to find and check those bolts.

It wouldn't hurt to check out the frame, too. I believe the failure point in old Trilliums is in the front where the frame curves upward coming out from under the shell.
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Old 11-18-2016, 11:19 AM   #3
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Trillium 1300's and Axles

What Jon in Az said.

and

Go to Princess Auto and get one of their 3500lb torsion axles when they come on sail next.
Take the bubble off in your driveway and inspect and repair frame as required. Replace axle as above if necessary.
When finished, Undercoat everything on that frame and axle...it will last for years if done right. If you want it done right, take it to an automotive undercoating shop and make sure they do the Inside of any channel or boxed piece of frame .

Save the old connector bolts (see Jon) and buy new in the Burnside Park.
It's a simple and easy fix and not very expensive....but does involve some transporting, organizing, and neighbour manhandling !

I'm in NS as well !
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Old 11-18-2016, 12:02 PM   #4
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Name: Gordon
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I have changed the axle in my Trillium.

I lifted the shell off, pulled the frame out, torched off the old axle, added a 2" X 3" "lift" and added on a new axle.

My trailer is now a bit higher off of the ground, plus I was able to orient the swing arms in the "trailing" position. I installed a 3500# axle.

The shell was basically held on by gravity. The bolts/screws were all virtually rusted away!
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Old 11-18-2016, 12:11 PM   #5
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Name: Randy J.
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I had my RV guy check the axel and he did it exactly as Jon says. Our Trillium is a '76 and yes, my old bolts were unsafe. It was a fairly easy self help fix to replace them. My RV guy did suggest I use steel bolts rather then the stainless steel I was favouring. He says the stainless steel lacks the strength of regular steel. I coated the bolts with bees wax and sealed the inside washers with high end silicone. So far as undercoating, I trust Krown. They do spray the inside of the tubular frame. And it appears to seep between the body and frame over time.
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Old 11-18-2016, 02:05 PM   #6
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Jon - Any chance you could quantify the amount of movement of the axle arms that might be "healthy" on a Trillium 1300?
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Old 11-18-2016, 05:42 PM   #7
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Wow!

Thank you, Jon, Mike, Min and Randy, and Paul Neumeister for your advice and information!! It is welcome and valuable to us. I hope to see much more conversation on this thread - for all of us Trillium 1300 owners. Thanks again
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Old 11-18-2016, 09:57 PM   #8
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A few years back I posted what to look for when checking an axle.
Replacing an Axle - leading arm to trailing arm

Keep in mind this was written for a boler. The Trillium is a bit easier to see some things because the top of the wheel is not covered by the body.

I've replaced the axles on both my boler American and my Trillium 4500. Neither required removing the body from the frame.
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Old 11-18-2016, 10:27 PM   #9
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I agree with Roy; no need to remove the body, that's just silly talk.
If your 40 year old trailer is still running it's original axel; it needs to be replaced. Period. It's really not that expensive.
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Old 11-19-2016, 06:18 AM   #10
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Thank you, Roy and thank you Scott. I have ear marked your thread - there is a lot of valuable information there.

As well, if we did decide to remove the body of our trailer is there a preferred method? What should it rest on if anything in particular?

I value all the information brought to light. We have been in touch with Paul and are looking at gear from him.

Thanks, all, again. Keep it coming.
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Old 11-19-2016, 08:10 AM   #11
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@ Mike & Gord
Why would you put a 3500# axle on a 1700# trailer? Seems like that would give you a ride almost as punishing as a dead axle. I believe Scamp uses a 2200# axle on their 13' models.

@ Steve
My 8 year old Scamp axle drops about 2".
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Old 11-19-2016, 08:41 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon in AZ View Post
@ Mike & Gord
Why would you put a 3500# axle on a 1700# trailer? Seems like that would give you a ride almost as punishing as a dead axle. I believe Scamp uses a 2200# axle on their 13' models.

@ Steve
My 8 year old Scamp axle drops about 2".
It may be 1700 to start but by the time you get luggage, propane, a few cases of beer and add a little insurance for the yard sale anvil you have to get home, and you're getting added weight pretty fast.

The body comes off for clear and easy access to every sq. inch of the frame. You only want to do it once.

It's just what I would do
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Old 11-19-2016, 09:23 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by panhead_mike View Post
It may be 1700 to start but by the time you get luggage, propane, a few cases of beer and add a little insurance for the yard sale anvil you have to get home, and you're getting added weight pretty fast.

The body comes off for clear and easy access to every sq. inch of the frame. You only want to do it once.

It's just what I would do
There is only one vintage Trillium 1300 in the Trailer Weights database, and it tipped the scales at about 1850# fully loaded. Most non-bath 13'ers fall in the 1600-1900# range. It would take a lot of beer to get your Trillium anywhere near 3500#, and I don't recommend carrying antique anvils in your trailer...

In my opinion, an overrated axle subjects frame, shell, and contents to a lot more stresses going down the road. If the rubber in the axle doesn't absorb impacts, something else will. It doesn't change the GVWR of the trailer, unless you have also upgraded the frame and tires.
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Old 11-19-2016, 09:55 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by Jon in AZ View Post
There is only one vintage Trillium 1300 in the Trailer Weights database, and it tipped the scales at about 1850# fully loaded. Most non-bath 13'ers fall in the 1600-1900# range. It would take a lot of beer to get your Trillium anywhere near 3500#, and I don't recommend carrying antique anvils in your trailer...

In my opinion, an overrated axle subjects frame, shell, and contents to a lot more stresses going down the road. If the rubber in the axle doesn't absorb impacts, something else will. It doesn't change the GVWR of the trailer, unless you have also upgraded the frame and tires.
Yeah, well maybe I went to an anvil convention and got a deal on a six pack of them..lol
You may be right, but it's just what I would do...
Keep the rubber side down !
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