Trillium Electric Brakes - Fiberglass RV


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Old 03-23-2008, 07:30 AM   #1
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Trailer: 1976 Trillium 13 ft
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Hi,

We are considering getting a Subaru Forester for a Tow Vehicle for our 13' Trillium. It will require electric brakes to be installed on the Trill so I am trying to determine how much this will cost.

1. Does anyone have a link to an axle/brake combo that will work on this trailer.

2. Will the body need to be pulled off the frame

3. For members who have had this done, what pitfalls should I watch out for

Thanks!
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Old 03-23-2008, 07:33 AM   #2
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Ack, should have searched google first

http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/in...howtopic=24406

Note to self, google search works better then site search =)
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Old 03-23-2008, 09:08 AM   #3
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Trailer: 1978 Trillium 4500 Deluxe
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As far as the brakes go, I have heard mixed thoughts. With the Trillium 1300 's dryweight at about 950-1000 lbs is it really neccesary? My Trillium 4500 came with factory installed brakes, but when I bought it 5 1/2 years ago the owner had disconnected them. I heard if you are going to mountainous areas that it is a good idea along with a trans-cooler unit to boot!

Have great Day Booker!

Dave in Michigan
"The Trillium King"

P.S. Booker,
We all have'nt heard response's from your Heading of "Trillium Found" Please take a moment to respond.
Thanks!
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Old 03-23-2008, 09:34 AM   #4
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From what I have read a loaded trillium is around 1500lbs and the Subaru recommends brakes on the trailer after 1000lbs. We pulled it back from Vancouver on some big hills with my Toyota truck and had no braking issues... but when you got kids you tend to be extra paranoid. The whole tow vehicle thing is a bit of an issue - we can't find the 'perfect' fit. Ideally they would have 4dr, 4wd diesel Toyota trucks... like all the ones on every continent but ours

lol, I have not responded because everything got so off topic - was waiting to see if anyone did have tips on stripping the paint off the gelcoat. Learned my lesson - post good news about buying a new trailer in a seperate post from questions on the reno.

Heading there now
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Old 03-23-2008, 02:01 PM   #5
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You may not have had any braking issues, but once you get them on there you will realize braking is much better. They may not be required by law (NY wants them at 1K, WA wants them at 3-4K, MA wants them at 13K, I believe), but if the vehicle maker says do it, one would be somewhat foolish not to.

I put them on my Scamp 13, pulled by half-ton Dodge pickup, and it made a lot of difference. Six braked wheels on the pavement is better than four.
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Old 03-26-2008, 08:35 PM   #6
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Name: Joe
Trailer: 1989 17 ft Bigfoot Deluxe / 2004 Ford Ranger
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Quote:
Hi,
We are considering getting a Subaru Forester for a Tow Vehicle for our 13' Trillium. It will require electric brakes to be installed on the Trill so I am trying to determine how much this will cost.

1. Does anyone have a link to an axle/brake combo that will work on this trailer.

2. Will the body need to be pulled off the frame

3. For members who have had this done, what pitfalls should I watch out for

Thanks!
Hi Booker
I have a 73 Trillium, that I can tow with either the '04 Ranger 4wd, or an '01 Forester.Both handle the towing with no effort.Last year, I had to replace the axle; I went to a Dexter # 10, 3000 lb with 10" electric brakes...cost around $800 here in Ontario. About $175 of that was for cutting off, rewelding the NEW AXLE to correct a clearance prob on one side. The shop never explained why it was like that.
Anyways, the Ranger has a brake controller/7-wire harness, the Forester has the 7-wire harness, with batt. charge circuit, but no brake controller.After towing with both tugs on long trips, I can tell you I feel much more comfortable WITH brakes when towing with the Ranger. Near or actual panic stops in busy weekend traffic will make a believer out of you ! Whatever axle you go with, install brakes at the same time; I was advised to go with 10" brakes, as the 7" brakes were prone to fade quickly under hard useage.
I don't believe the shell was lifted from the frame; the ultimate call is probably made by the welder,based on his skill level.
Cheers,Joe
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Old 03-26-2008, 09:11 PM   #7
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Thanks for the feedback Joe. We are still trying to determine how much vehicle debt we really want... truck has been paid off for 11 years so going back to payments is going to suck =)

Booker
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Old 03-26-2008, 10:52 PM   #8
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Do some searching in the archives here, but if you have brake flanges on your existing axle, then brakes can easily be added. If flanges are not on axle, then likely axle will need replacement, but most manfs put axles on with brake flanges.

Hubs are pulled, brake hardware is mounted to flange, drum/hubs are installed. Controller is mounted in TV and wired back to 7-pin connector. Wiring and breakaway switch are added to trailer.
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Old 03-27-2008, 07:22 PM   #9
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Thanks for the feedback Joe. We are still trying to determine how much vehicle debt we really want... truck has been paid off for 11 years so going back to payments is going to suck =)

Booker
Hi Booker,
If your axel is in good shape and you have the flanges and you are a little mechanically inclined brakes are easy install. Complete 7 inch brake assemblys, hubs and new drums are about $200.00. The only other thing you need is some wire to hook them up to your tug.
Last summer I replaced the entire brake assemblys on my Scamp 13' and a Trillium 4500 I had.
I could lock up the brakes on both of the trailers at a minimal setting on my brake controller.
One of my favorite places to camp is at about 10000 ft. elevation on the way home it is about a 12 mile precipitious downgrade with many switch backs. I have never had any problems with the trailer brakes coming down from the pass.
Good luck,
John
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Old 03-28-2008, 02:04 PM   #10
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Hi Booker

I asked the guy at E&H hitch shop about adding an axle with brakes. He recommended a 2000 lb Hayes axle with 10" brakes for $750 plus labour. I asked about 3500 lb dexter and he said the suspension would probably be too stiff for such a light trailer. He also said 10" brakes are more common than 7" so parts are cheaper. He was pretty confident they could replace the axle without removing the body from the frame. You will also need a good brake controller for about $200. Don't go cheap on the controller because you need something with fine enough control so it won't lock up the brakes too easy.
From al this, it sounds to me like any trailer shop could do it.

Rene
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Old 03-28-2008, 06:16 PM   #11
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I dunno about Hayes or leaf springs, but the Dexter torsion axles can be ordered in 100 lb increments within their range, so a Dexter #10 can be ordered from 2,300 lbs to 3,500 lbs and it would take the 10" brakes. The factory just shortens the rubber before assembly.

You can get a Prodigy controller on eBay for less than 100 USD.
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Old 03-28-2008, 07:13 PM   #12
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Name: Darwin
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Measure everything then go to :

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/sto...matchallpartial

and look for the axle and brake parts. Everything is there and at a price that is most affordable.

The following are great catalogs to have:
www.northerntool.com
www.harborfreight.com
www.jcw.com and ask for the camping catalog

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