trillium wheel wells - Fiberglass RV


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Old 07-03-2006, 03:55 AM   #1
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Name: Jack
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I am considering buying a 1975 trillium. One thing I noticed on the trailer, there is only about a 2 inch space between the top of the tire and the wheel well. Is this adequate? Does this mean the torsion axle is shot? Please advise.

thanks

Mr B
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Old 07-03-2006, 08:52 PM   #2
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Mr. B,
Two inches is too close. Alas, I'm not a torsion axle owner so hopefully Pete D. or others can tune in with more expert help and options. Remember, it's the 4th so may take a day or two for everybody to return to the forums.
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Old 07-03-2006, 09:24 PM   #3
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I think two inches is too close also. An axle only lasts about 15-20 years (and I think it's closer to 15) and since this is a 1975 model...you're looking at a trailer that's over 30 years old. Replacing the axle at that age is to be expected. BUT, maybe two inches is the norm for a Trillium
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Old 07-03-2006, 10:23 PM   #4
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Two inches is not what a new one comes with. More like 4 or 5 vertically. I replaced mine original already for height and load so can't check original. Here is a picture to give you an idea.
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Curt
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Old 07-04-2006, 11:06 AM   #5
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I just went outside and measured the one side of my trailer (78 Trillium). The better side measures 4 1/2 inches. Because my trailer leans to one side, the other side is less. My trailer is unloaded at this time when I measured.
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Old 07-04-2006, 10:04 PM   #6
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FYI - my 1978 1300 has 4 inches clearance on each wheel well
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Old 07-06-2006, 01:12 AM   #7
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Hello,

Funny I should run into this thread today, as my '75 1300 has just developed a lop-sided problem.

After taking it from the Toronto area to Quebec City for the long weekend (first major trip out!)I noticed in the rear view that it seemed to be leaning on the way home.

Checking out the height in the wheel wells, I had 3-4 inches on one side, and the other was down to about 1 inch. I'm quite sure it was not like this when I left.

The question I have is what would cause this, is it generally repairable (are parts available), and if not what would you replace it with? And finally how much might I expect this to cost me?

I plan to get it into the shop soon, just looking for some guidance from those who may have been there before.

Any thoughts are appreciated!

Thanks,

Dave
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Old 07-06-2006, 01:07 PM   #8
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Most likely the rubber torsion axel is broken on the low side. The rubber "spring" is fixed in the middle of the axel and both ends are allowed to flex and twist. Rubber torsion axels have a limited lifetime of 15 to 20 years.

Axel is not repairable. New axel is less than 300 $US. Installed expect no more than another 100 $US.

Standard axel is a 2000 lb for a 13'. I upgraded mine to a 3500 lb because I travel heavy.
2000lb can have 7" brakes, 3500 lb can have 10" brakes. Ten inch brakes stop much better than 7" brakes when loaded.

Most any trailer repair shop should be able to order and install an axel for you. Now is a good time to raise the trailer if you want it to ride a little higher.

Sorry for the bad news.

Curt
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Old 07-08-2006, 09:24 AM   #9
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Curt,

Thanks for the insight, it helps! I'll let you know how it all works out.

Dave
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Old 07-08-2006, 03:38 PM   #10
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I replaced the axle on my Love Bug with a Dexter Torque-flex. The guy at the axle shop showed me the order form from Dexter and it said that you need 3" minimum of tire clearance. Anything less will result in the tire hitting the wheel well. I didn't have a problem because I added about 5" of clearance to get the trailer up off of the ground.
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Old 07-09-2006, 06:57 AM   #11
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[ OK , thanks for all the information guys


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Old 07-25-2006, 10:24 AM   #12
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Hi Guys,

Further to this topic, my baby is in the shop today - the local RV place referred me to a spring shop which they use for this type of work.

These guys are pushing a leaf-spring setup (3500 lbs with brakes) as opposed to the torsion bar style.

I was wondering if anyone has an opinion if one is better than the other... I know that up till now it tows great, just follows along without any drama... I'm worried that changing things too much might make it handle differently, or worse...

Any thoughts?

Thanks,

Dave
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Old 07-25-2006, 01:43 PM   #13
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Quote:
...These guys are pushing a leaf-spring setup (3500 lbs with brakes) as opposed to the torsion bar style.

I was wondering if anyone has an opinion if one is better than the other...
I can't imagine why I would replace a design which is proven to work well with one which is more primitive... except that it might be more profitable for the shop, or that might be what they have in stock.

Also, I don't understand putting a 3500 lb axle under a 13' trailer, unless it is loaded particularly heavily, or the larger brakes (likely 10" instead of 7") are desired - even then, it should not be sprung for 3500 lb. The higher capacity axle will be heavier, more expensive, and rougher riding (due to increased unsprung weight).

The hubs, bearings, and brakes are generally identical between the two designs (e.g. Dexter Torflex #10 and Dexter D35).

Maybe the shop has a good reason - I would ask why they are pushing the leaf-spring setup.

I have a factory-stock 3500 lb leaf-spring axle under my 17' Boler, and would prefer a less crude system.
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Old 07-26-2006, 09:49 AM   #14
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I really think the leaf springs system would be too harsh a ride, I found the torsion system excellent n my 1300, and it helped with ground clearance on a few back roads.
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