Using anti seize compound on wheel lugs

[SilverGhost]

Originally Posted by Darwin Maring

Silver: You have to be really careful when you apply it it the spark plug threads and not get it on or near the electrode because it is conductive and can cause misfires. It was mandatory in the Army to put it on aircraft spark plugs because without it, the plug would weld itself to the aluminum cylinder and you would strip the cylinder threads upon removal. I still use the stuff today on all spark plugs. I think the anti compound is graphite based.

I only saw the problem on bud wheels one time on the anti seize actually making removal difficult. But I have seen the issue on spark plugs several times. We used to use it on air cooled VW engines for the same reason you did. But we learned to use copper anti seize for spark plugs. The standard silver colored stuff is aluminum based and had two problems - it dried out and made the threads stick worse, and it caused misfire issues.

Jason

[Francesca Knowles]

Originally Posted by Bob Miller

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Somehow a claim about the frequency of loose lugs, made by a company that sells something to reduce loose lug nuts, without any reference as to it's source for that information, holds little water for me.
.

It's not a pretend problem or something dreamed up to sell product.

You have to be a member of SAE International to read the (rather dry) document at this link, but anyone can read its author's "for the layman" article on the subject at this link.

And here's one recent example of mfr. concern per lug nut loosening:
(19,000 2013 Cadillacs recalled). link

[Bob Miller]

Good article, but I stand by my poo-pooing:

The article only estimates 750-1050 separations per year, about twice what the seller claims, and the SAE doesn't specify how many occurred on cars & light trailers vs. over the road trucks.

But the good piece of info in the SAE article is:

"The remedy to the wrong or lost clamping force is to have the wheel nuts re-torqued after a short driving distance. Although wheel separations are rare, they should be entirely preventable with re-torqueing."
In short, if they are put on right, and then re-torqued, they don't come off.....


And as long as none of us don't pull with a 2013 Cadillac, we should be safe.....and that sounds like an engineering problem anyway, but I will send a note to Can-Am, just in case.....

And again, the original claim didn't quote any known sources, hence my doubts.

[Andrew Gibbens]

Warning, thread hijack:

When I used to ride a Gold Wing motorcycle, the one thing everyone agreed on was that if the rear wheel had to be removed to fix a puncture, the splines in the hub had to be lubricated before the wheel was replaced, if there was to be any hope of ever removing it again.

One Australian said that when he had a flat in the bush, he used Vegemite (an Australian national delicacy for spreading on bread/toast) and reckoned it did a better job than proper anti-seize compounds.

A British wag then responded that if Vegemite worked, Marmite (a similar British national delicacy for spreading on bread/toast) would work even better and pretty soon international war had broken out over the anti-seize properties of tangy spreads.

I would like to make clear I'm not suggesting peanut butter has any value as an anti-seize compound, but then again.......

[RogerDat]

Peanut butter is PERFECT. Smooth is an anti-seize, crunchy is a thread lock material. Four out of Five moms agree.

Back side of an aluminum rim can weld itself with oxidation to the hub, have had to use a pretty heavy dead blow hammer to break that connection. So I am +1 on putting it there.

Torque, drive, then re-torque is solid advice, with or without anti-seize product. Proper initial torque not just driven on with impact driver at the shop is import if you don't want to be on the side of the road waiting for an air compressor and impact gun to change a tire.

I don't carry a 4 way tire tool in my camper, too bulky, what I do carry is a cheap needle type torque wrench and correct 6 sided socket for my lugs. Works as a heck of a breaker bar and allows tighten and re-check to repeatable if not precise torque.

I also generally use a tiny amount of anti-seize, pipe dope, or lubricant just to help prevent seizing but can't argue that it's somehow "better" just the way I was shown decades ago so I use it.

[Glenn Baglo]

Originally Posted by RogerDat

Works as a heck of a breaker bar and allows tighten and re-check to repeatable if not precise torque.

I went to Canadian Tire site to search because I'm positive I read instructions to never use torque wrench as a breaker bar.
Couldn't find that instruction ( maybe it's with my wrench, in the car ), but I did learn that the 3/8" torque wrench from Canadian Tire is NOT to be used to torque lug nuts. Needs to be 1/2" torque wrench for lug nuts.
Since I don't have the receipt, and I'm sure mine is 3/8", I guess I now have an expensive breaker bar, since I've got no other use for it.

[Glenn Baglo]

Went out to the car to check instruction manual.
Whew! I have the 1/2" drive torque wrench.
And on the front page of the instruction manual, it says, "do not use as a breaker bar".

[mary and bob]

I carry a 1/2" drive breaker bar and hex impact socket in all my vehicles.

[RogerDat]

Originally Posted by Glenn Baglo

Went out to the car to check instruction manual.
Whew! I have the 1/2" drive torque wrench.
And on the front page of the instruction manual, it says, "do not use as a breaker bar".

That is why I use a cheap old needle type and not my expensive ratchet click release torque wrench, and it has a 1/2 & 3/8 on opposite sides of the head. I don't care about it as a torque wrench.

Looks like this one Neiko Classic Needle-Style Dual 3/8-Inch & 1/2-Inch Drive 0-150 Ft./Lb. SAE & Metric Torque Wrench - Amazon.com

Can't recall if it was cheaper than that 3 decades ago when I bought it But for $14 I might buy another one, I kind of miss having it in my tool box instead of the camper.

[Glenn Baglo]

Yup. That's my old one.
Needle fell off some time in the past 20 years.
It too is a breaker bar.

[Gigi]

Originally Posted by Andrew Gibbens

Warning, thread hijack:

When I used to ride a Gold Wing motorcycle, the one thing everyone agreed on was that if the rear wheel had to be removed to fix a puncture, the splines in the hub had to be lubricated before the wheel was replaced, if there was to be any hope of ever removing it again.

One Australian said that when he had a flat in the bush, he used Vegemite (an Australian national delicacy for spreading on bread/toast) and reckoned it did a better job than proper anti-seize compounds.

A British wag then responded that if Vegemite worked, Marmite (a similar British national delicacy for spreading on bread/toast) would work even better and pretty soon international war had broken out over the anti-seize properties of tangy spreads.

I would like to make clear I'm not suggesting peanut butter has any value as an anti-seize compound, but then again.......

Andrew, I really appreciated this having had both delicacies! Thanks for posting ths! Cheers!

[steve dunham]

I called Dexter axle after reading the Dexter owners manual (NO mention of anti seize or lubricant in the manual) Dexter's engineer said they do not recommend the use of anti seize or grease .They told me to torque the wheel nuts to spec (DRY) and then spray WD 40 on the exposed stud threads to prevent corrosion

[Andrew Gibbens]

Originally Posted by Gigi

Andrew, I really appreciated this having had both delicacies!

Gigi, that makes you very adventurous for a North American! When the Vegemite.v.Marmite war reached its climax, an American forum member was proposed as an independent 'adjudicator' to try the taste of both products.

The 'adjudicator' claimed that his wife developed a taste for Vegemite but that neither of them was willing to go further than just smelling the open jar of Marmite. Nobody would credit that, in both countries, these spreads were regularly served to small children.

[jcstanley]

been a mechanic for almost 40 years . always use anti sieze on hub and wheel nuts . I always use a torque wrentch . never had a problem . but thats just me . good luck !! John

[steve dunham]

I personally called Dexter and talked to a Dexter engineer . Dexter does not recommend the use of anti sieze on the wheel studs . I asked about what I could use on the studs to stop rust from road salt .I was told to torque the wheel nuts to the proper torque and spray the wheel studs with W-D40 or a similar product

[honda03842]

I lubricate my studs, honestly not knowing what's correct.

I tighten them with a torque wrench and check them regularly with the torque wrench, probably once a month and always before a big trip.

When we had a motor home the rule of thump was torque them down, drive 50 miles and re-torque. Not that religious with the trailer.

I never let dealers use an impact wrench anymore. I've had them put tires on so tight that Ginny's had to help. We now carry a breaker bar, a 1.5 foot steel pipe.

[SilverGhost]

Darn, now I'm jonesin' for some Marmite. Vegemite will do in a pinch. Sounds like an excuse to visit the great white north

When I was working at a trailer shop that performed DOT inspections for trucks this topic came up. When we approached the authorities we were informed that they would flag a truck for have anti-seize on its wheel bolts. When pressed on the issue we were told a light penetrating oil would be "acceptable", though not recommended.

I like the Dexter recommendation as it addresses the torque issue and still helps prevent seized lug nuts.

Jason


Sent from my iPhone

[Andrew Gibbens]

Originally Posted by SilverGhost

Darn, now I'm jonesin' for some Marmite. Vegemite will do in a pinch. Sounds like an excuse to visit the great white north

Sure, it sounds attractive, when you think all the other kids are spreading it on their studs and splines and you're not getting any of the action.

But it will get you hooked on 'hard lubricants' like copper anti-seize quicker than you think. Remember Nancy R's wise words: "Just say No!".

[ArtWrangler]

I used anti seize on my car's lugs, and promptly torqued it to the point where the 'stud' broke. A better way to avoid stuck nuts is just a squirt of WD40 on the treads to prevent corrosion from forming. Also, a good, long lug wrench will ease removal of tight nuts.
Happy Trailering!

[floyd]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

Several members mentioned the use of thread locker on my other post and upon research I found the product called anti seize compound. I ordered both but upon research have found there are two sides on the use of this product on your wheel lugs. some say the use allows too much torque to be applied while others say it makes the removal of wheel a lot easier. What do feel is best?

Guess that settles it!
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