Wanna tow Scamp 16' with Subaru Forester - Page 6 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 02-05-2012, 10:40 AM   #71
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Lil Snoozy looking good

Thanks to everyone for the info. It's beginning to look to me that the Lil Snoozy may have addressed the short comings of the Scamp and Casita.
  1. Internal height 6'4"
  2. Queen bed plus small bed
  3. Dry weight under 1850# with all the options I want
Just concerned about the price $18007 with my options and the fact they are very new and small.
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Old 02-05-2012, 11:28 AM   #72
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Another Option which also has the Queen bed plus single or bunks, Interior height of 6'4" and is light at only 15 ft is the Parkliner and you can get every option they offer including dual batteries and dual propane tanks for $17,500 out the door and an overall weight without your stuff or water in the tanks of 2275 lbs. Tongue weight of 200lbs with empty tanks. You could lower that even more by switching to the new Fiberglass Tanks. They are in North Carolina.

Just another option.
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Old 02-05-2012, 11:46 AM   #73
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Originally Posted by melissab View Post
Another Option which also has the Queen bed plus single or bunks, Interior height of 6'4" and is light at only 15 ft is the Parkliner and you can get every option they offer including dual batteries and dual propane tanks for $17,500 out the door and an overall weight without your stuff or water in the tanks of 2275 lbs. Tongue weight of 200lbs with empty tanks. You could lower that even more by switching to the new Fiberglass Tanks. They are in North Carolina.

Just another option.
Thanks Melissa.

I am very interested in them too being they are 15' long versus Lil Snoozy at 17' long. I actually talked to Christopher at ParkLiner. Extremely helpful. He actually weighed one of his with the options I wanted and it came in at 2200# versus 1850# for LilSnoozy. My Forester max tow rating is 2400#. The 2200# is so close to 2400# I am a bit nervous about ParkLiner. If it weren't for the Forester I'd probably opt for the ParkLiner over the Lil Snoozy. Still mulling over my choices!
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Old 02-05-2012, 05:49 PM   #74
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FWIW I drive a 4cyl Tacoma. Recently I needed to move a bunch of stuff cross country. The truck was not overloaded, but was close to payload capacity. It was really slow going through the mountains and a lot of down-shifting.
After this experience, my personal decision was to go light and go faster.
YMMV
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Old 02-16-2012, 07:23 AM   #75
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first,,,never haul water, you can fill up when you get where your going.
same with anything heavy like canned goods.
as to towing, i like to stay around half my vehicles capacity, to leave room for error. but that being said it should tow it.
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Old 02-16-2012, 08:21 AM   #76
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Well, from all this discussion I think you are all going yell at me for my 2 cents.

I have a 2005 VW Golf TDI that I tow my EggCamper with. I have also moved a couple times and weighed the Uhaul at 2800lbs (no brakes). I also have a 17' boat I launch with this car. What I can say is this; it depends on what you expect from the tow vehicle.

My father spent a great many years in several countries driving truck. I learned that anything worth doing is worth doing right. That's why my car has trailer brake controller, rear coil spring air bags, full frame mount hitch, extra oil cooling and filtering, larger capacity clutch. Also my engine power is about the same as my dad's 72 Chevy 1/2 ton pickup (Euro versions come from 75HP to 170HP - mine has been changed to about 140HP and ~280lb/ft)

I watch people around me and plan stops and turns much further in advance (though my wife says other wise ). I average 28 to 35 MPG with this setup depending on terrain and weather and as I learn what speed it likes.

I think the trade off here is MPG for speed and acceleration. If you can get used to driving 60 or under then you'll have no problem with a small SUV/car. BTW state speed law in several states for towing is lower (IE: CA=55 MPH). If you want to be the first up the mountain then you would be better off with a bigger SUV/pickup.

Jason
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Old 02-16-2012, 10:09 AM   #77
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As far European tow ratings, the ratings are more dependent on owner knowing the conditions under which they operate. In USA they are more likely to take lowest, safest factor in determining a rating.

My understanding of European rating system is this - tow rating is the maximum weight a vehicle can get moving and continue forward progress at posted limits, on stated inclines. Example: my car rating varies a couple thousand pounds based on engine out put, drive train (FWD vs AWD) and rated incline from 0 to 12%. The maximum my car style can tow is 3568lbs on flat ground with 4motion and largest diesel engine option.

Also any trailer over, I think, 1000lbs requires trailer brakes by law. As a note, state of California also requires trailers over a certain weight to have brakes (1000 or 2000lbs?). Other states have variations requiring brakes.

Jason
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Old 02-16-2012, 10:16 AM   #78
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Jason, I might want to pick your brain about your hitch at some point. I have been thinking my next car will be the subaru outback, but I've changed course and have my eye on the Jetta TDI sportwagen. It seems like the only ready-made hitch for that car is a class I, and I'm curious to know about your hitch setup. I guess the class I is probably adequate but I sort of like the sturdiness of the class II hitch I have on my current subaru forester.
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Old 02-16-2012, 11:20 AM   #79
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Originally Posted by jen b View Post
Jason, I might want to pick your brain about your hitch at some point. I have been thinking my next car will be the subaru outback, but I've changed course and have my eye on the Jetta TDI sportwagen. It seems like the only ready-made hitch for that car is a class I, and I'm curious to know about your hitch setup. I guess the class I is probably adequate but I sort of like the sturdiness of the class II hitch I have on my current subaru forester.
Actually Jen the class I would not be adequate and you will have no problem getting a "ready made" Class II or III for the Outback along with the seven pin plug - they are made by most if not all major hitch manufactures. Its just that Subaru themselves did not offer hitches themselves - they actually only stated offering the Class I from the factory/showroom in the past year or so - up until then you had to get every hitch from another company. So the class II on the Forester you have now was not likely made by Subaru either. It is very possible that the class I they are now offering isn't actually made by them either. Despite what some may here say it really is not an uncommon situation with auto manufactures.
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Old 02-16-2012, 01:35 PM   #80
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Cool One factor of the equation omitted

I tow a Trilium 1300 with a 2000 Subaru Outback with a 2.5L 4 cyl rated for 2000 lbs.
In fact we just returned from a 42 day, 5747 mile trip through 5 states.
I think a sway bar would just be added weight. Our Trillium tracks like it is part of the car. We have no problem with cross winds, etc.We average about 22mpg. Our Trill was weighed by Fred Simpson at Quartzsite last year and it came in at 1840 lbs.
The only lack we notice is up steep grades. We towed up Palomar mountain South Grade, and on some of the long hills we do have to downshift, (5 spd stick).

Now to the missing factor:
The legal aspects of towing overweight. There are several threads on this blog about what happens to someone who has an accident whilst towing overweight, and if someone is killed in the accident, the overweight vehicle owner will have a real legal problem. Even if someone is not killed, a smart lawyer on the other side will shred your life.
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Old 02-16-2012, 02:31 PM   #81
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We have no problem with cross winds, etc.We average about 22mpg. :
Roger funny you should mention this. My brother called this AM asking about how the drive and weather was on a trip I did in Nov/Dec into Calf and Arizona.

Was just telling him about a day I noted that the gas mileage display was saying I was only getting about between 7 to 10 mpg on a real flat road -was worried there was something wrong with the car in the middle of no where - it wasn't until the semi up ahead of me suddenly went totally sideways on the road and I stopped and got out of the car that I realized just how windy it was and why the poor mileage- normal the gas on the flats its in the 20 and up range. There were no trees on the side of the road to give me an indication of wind and the tow had not given me any indication that it was being blowing around either - the stability in the winds may have to do with the lower wheel base of the tow compared to some others - don't know for sure.

Your legal disclaimer is a good one - wish more people would take note of it.
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Old 02-16-2012, 07:34 PM   #82
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Jason, I also would like to know if you had a hitch made custom or where you got it.
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Old 02-16-2012, 07:51 PM   #83
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Originally Posted by DavArl View Post
Just concerned about the price $18007 with my options and the fact they are very new and small.
Nothing you can do about price... except downgrade the options, but I certainly wouldn't worry about the fact they're a new manufacturer. It's FIBERGLASS!!
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Old 02-17-2012, 04:55 AM   #84
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Originally Posted by jen b View Post
Jason, I might want to pick your brain about your hitch at some point. I have been thinking my next car will be the subaru outback, but I've changed course and have my eye on the Jetta TDI sportwagen. It seems like the only ready-made hitch for that car is a class I, and I'm curious to know about your hitch setup. I guess the class I is probably adequate but I sort of like the sturdiness of the class II hitch I have on my current subaru forester.
The VW looks like it would be a great tow vehicle with all that torque from the diesel engine but what concerned me was the low ground clearance. Less than 6" as I recall. I was afraid the hitch might bottom out or hit the rear hatch. Also VW reliability is not what it use to be. Raz
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