WD Hitch for 16' Scamp with dual LP tanks - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV

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Old 07-25-2013, 08:16 AM   #29
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Name: Chris
Trailer: Scamp 16
New Hampshire
Posts: 165
I'll do some more reading on it. The principle of the hitch design definitely makes sense but I can easily see how the forces applied by it can increase dramatically if the trailer wants to bounce or the tongue needs to dip to allow changes in elevation between the front wheels of the tow vehicle and the trailer. You might not hear any sounds driving down the highway but pulling into your campsite a loud "pop" of the weakest link, a chain, a bolt, your receiver, could turn into an expensive repair. I suppose the same could be said for any WD hitch but I would feel safer knowing how progressive or linear those urethane bushings are when it comes to flexing and handling road undulations.

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Old 07-25-2013, 08:27 AM   #30
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Name: Conrad
Trailer: Bigfoot 3000 & Barth "slide-in" truck camper
Posts: 963
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From what I've read here, the best way to completely eliminate the possibility of sway is to use a WD hitch and dial up the springs enough to lift the TV rear tires off the ground and the weld everything in place. This provides a long wheel base and nothing moves. <grin>

Seriously, I really enjoyed reading this thread. I'd recommend it to anyone interested in WD hitches. I have been a believer in them since pulling a 6500 lb plus trailer with a K5 Blazer many years ago. I had no issues with sway and did like the positive steering feel it provided.

The Blue Ox system seems impressive and I particularly enjoyed reading the analysis of how it provides sway control. I'll check back to see if any Blue Ox owners provide further updates, insights, etc.

Thanks again to all you contributors.

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Old 07-25-2013, 09:35 AM   #31
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Name: Darrell
Trailer: Scamp 16ft
Posts: 202
I went to a Andersen WD after a few times towing my 16 Deluxe with 2 propane tanks. My TV is a Wangler Unlimited. The good is you adjust the wt distribution with a socket wrench, lower weigh and would fit. I can't say that it is the best I've not used the others. The Andersen was recommended by a local RV shop I go to. If I was towing a 5000 lbs or more trailer I would probably use something else due to issues with damaged couplers and such.
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Old 07-25-2013, 09:39 AM   #32
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Name: Norm and Ginny
Trailer: Scamp 16
Posts: 7,085
Just curious. How many Scamp 16 owners tow with a W/D hitch?
Norm and Ginny

2014 Honda Odyssey
1991 Scamp 16
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Old 07-25-2013, 05:12 PM   #33
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Name: Brian
Trailer: Boler (B1700RGH) 1979
Posts: 5,000
Originally Posted by chuyler1 View Post
Excuse my newbie-ness but from my photos posted will this be an issue for me?
That looks like a common lever-latch coupler, so I assume it's not one which is a specific problem, but I don't really know.

Personally, I wouldn't use an Andersen No-Sway with any typical coupler having that little spring-loaded jaw in the back; perhaps a forged Bulldog, or the relatively new Quick-Bite, or just the classic yoke-type such as my Atwood. Even with my Atwood I would be annoyed if the WD system wore out the jaw, because in normal use that never wears out so no replacement part is available - a new coupler would need to be welded on.

1979 Boler B1700RGH, pulled by 2004 Toyota Sienna LE 2WD
Information is good. Lack of information is not so good, but misinformation is much worse. Check facts, and apply common sense liberally.
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