WDH users - anyone have experience with... - Fiberglass RV

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Old 01-13-2009, 04:04 AM   #1
reinhold m's Avatar
Name: reinhold
Trailer: 2000 17 ft Burro Widebody (bought in Ohio. towed home Spring 2009!)
Posts: 76
I saw this cushioned shank/drawbar unit during one of my many searches for equipment/gear...

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inside are polyurethane bumpers/cushions to help reduce vibration.

I believe it's made by the Convert-A-Ball company and re-branded/labeled by various retailers to sell under their names (in this case etrailer.com).

Seems like it would help and I can't see any downside yet. It goes for $89.95 at etrailer.com and I am considering it for when I go pick up my trailer this Spring. My trailer came with a 'standard' WDH system (chains and lift bars - it's NOT a combo WDH/anti-sway unit, though) so there is already a draw bar but this would seem to be a beneficial upgrade.

My new-to-me trailer is a 2000 Burro 17' and my tow vehicle will be my 2005 Honda Odyssey Van (3500# max tow rating 'when properly equipped').

Any opinions from those who do tow with WDH?

EDIT: thought I should mention I did search prior and there was a Legacy Post on this topic of cushioned ball drawbars/shanks/mounts... http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/in...howtopic=15165 but last entry was Feb. 2003 so I started afresh. Mods, feel free to add my question to that and bump it up if appropriate.

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Old 01-13-2009, 06:47 AM   #2
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Name: Roger
Trailer: Y2K6 Born Free 32RQ on the Kodiak chassis, 1995 Coachmen 19' B-van and 1996 Precision 21' Sailboat
Posts: 5,000
While it can't necessarily hurt anything, I'm not sure that with a trailer as light as the Burro 17 that you'd really need it either. As a matter of fact, I'm not sure that the Burro would be heavy enough to even make use of the cushioning. Usually they're used to cure a "clunk" whenever you start or stop. If your hitch setup is solid, there's not much reason to have a cushioned draw bar.


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Old 01-14-2009, 08:53 PM   #3
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Trailer: 17 ft Escape
Posts: 20
We are using a WDH to pull my Escape 17 and to prevent the shank of the hitch rumbling in the reciver I have used small pieces of butyl rubber (inner tube) to reduce the hitch rattle. I just cut a 2" by 5-6" piece and slide it in at the same time I slide in the shank. You can cut holes for the shank key - a bit of fiddly work but it really helps.

I have also used thin plastic - from a "magic carpet" used for sliding on snow. You will find they work out of the hitch occasionally - I just keep a few spares if needed.

Gerry Warren
The Escapist

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Old 01-17-2009, 09:20 PM   #4
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Name: Roy
Trailer: 1972 boler American and 1979 Trillium 4500
Posts: 4,852
There are a few products like this that work quite well for under $20 to stop the rattle.

Hidden Hitch # 51943

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And there is the Quiet Hitch which is different but interesting concept
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Old 01-24-2009, 03:20 PM   #5
reinhold m's Avatar
Name: reinhold
Trailer: 2000 17 ft Burro Widebody (bought in Ohio. towed home Spring 2009!)
Posts: 76
thanks for the tips & feedback guys. not sure what I'll do for sure yet but may just go ahead w/ the hitch set up as is w/ the slider that came with it. I still have some time to sort everything out before I go down to get the trailer in April, just trying to plan as much as possible ahead of time.
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Old 01-25-2009, 08:55 AM   #6
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Trailer: 2006 (25B21RB) 21 ft Bigfoot / Dodge 2500 Diesel
Posts: 109
I used the cushioned shank/drawbar unit to pull an open 2,000 plus pound dual axle trailer for years. I liked it and it worked very well. I since sold the trailer and draw bar and now use an Equalizer brand hitch for my travel trailer. I purchased my cushioned shank/drawbar through Cabelas. I would use a cushioned shank/drawbar again if a WDH and/or sway control was not required.

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