Weight distribution hitch?

[Uplander]

I got lucky and discovered a very professional dealer about 10 miles from my home in upstate New York...dealer and service department is in Fairhaven, Vermont on
New York/Vermont state line..."Exit 1 RV" ...exit 1 off US Route 4 Fairhaven, Vermont.

Service laborprices are high but a family owned operation that does quality work and offers
good honest advise.

First time RV buyers need all the help they can get.

[Dennis Hannaburg]

Thank you all for your input. I was so e cited to get the Boler that I had not put any thought into the towing weight capacity.


Sent from my iPad using Fiberglass RV

[David B.]

Kenji, thank you for your detailed explanation of how a WDH works. I used one on a toy hauler trailer that had a robust frame pulled by my 3/4 ton heavy duty diesel truck, but would NEVER use one on a very light framed fiberglass trailer, or with a unibody. Firestone or Air-lift bags work very well to keep the vehicle level to keep the headlights beams on the road.
Dave & Paula

[Carl V]

If the frame of the trailer is not strong enough to handle a WDH, then don't use one.
If a tow vehicle is rated for say 5000, it is rated for that weight, regardless if a WDH is used or not (unless a WDH is specifically prohibited) and regardless if it is unibody or not.

A WDH doesn't increase the tow rating of a vehicle, but certainly improves the handling a lot. There is no way I would tow my popup camper without the WDH, and obviously the same goes for my heavier Trillium. And my tow vehicle is a unibody Toyota Highlander.

It's too bad the frame of some trailers can't handle a light duty WDH as it would be beneficial even for the small rigs. Reese used to make a 220lbs-rated small duty WDH that was designed to work with Class II hitches. I used one for some time with my popup before upgrading to the Mini 350. It worked really well, too bad it was discontinued. They still sell similar light duty WDH outside NA, I guess the market is not important enough here. Now even the Mini350 is discontinued.

I understand the point of selecting a WDH with softer spring bars, but if the strength of the trailer's frame is a concern, I wouldn't use any WDH at all. If the frame is strong enough, then I would use a full rated WDH and not worry about bending anything. It is rated for it, or it is not.
However some spring bars are softer than other for the same weight rating. There isn't much flexing in Equal-i-zer's square tubing bars, compared to Reese's Steadi-Flex tapered bars, which probably don't put as much stress on the hitch when riding over bumps and such.

[redbarron55]

I don't believe that there is a truck rated over 5000 lbs without requiring a WDH for any load over that 5000 lbs.
That being said I would think that a set of Gabriel Hy-Jackers might still be a good addition.
My VW is within the rear axle rating with my Scamp, but I use the Air Lift bags to level the rig and keep the lights aimed properly IF I happen to tow at night (rare thing that).

Personally I think that you should tow with what you are comfortable driving.
You can't go wrong with a nice big truck, but personally I find my Sportswagen does a good enough job for me and I really don't care to drive a truck all the time.
It actually seems a little more stable than my 1990 Chevy Suburban.
This is not to say that anyone else should tow with one.
Here is a picture of a UK version od stabilizer that also serves to slightly relieve the weight on the rear end.
This one is a dual blade Bulldog Q-400, but they make it in a single as well.
It serves like a anti sway and "anti-bob" weight equalizer too.



I would like to get one of these for my Westfalia, but they don't import them to the US.

[Carl V]

The Reese light duty WDH I used was very similar to what Hayman-Reese sells in Australia:


Mini - Mini - hayman reese

I occasionally see some for sale in the classifieds. Mine is probably collecting dust somewhere in my shop.

[Mike Magee]

Originally Posted by Dennis Hannaburg

I currently have a Dodge Journey RT 2013 with the v6. I pull a Boler 1700. My question is...Should one look at a weight distribution hitch? I was told not to as it is a unibody..but on the dodge forums there appears that a lot use that hitch. Any information would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Dennis

Unibody or not unibody is not the controlling issue. The issue is what the manufacturer says. Some vehicles, like Subarus, specifically state to not use WDH. Some say not recommended and, as has been observed, this can be taken one way or another. If your manual is silent on the issue, look online to see if Dodge publishes a 'towing manual' (either for Journey or for Dodges in general). Go by what the mfr says, and if the mfr says nothing about it, I would take that to mean it's not a problem.

As for weak old frames on trailers, well, the sooner you find out about that the better... and get it fixed. A WDH should not be a problem with a sound frame on most any trailer.

The Andersen No-Sway has a little more give, less rigidity, compared to some others. Or look for one with flexing spring bars. Hitches like the Equal-i-zer, though effective and durable, are inflexible and thus probably are not as good a match for our smaller rigs.

[Mike Magee]

Originally Posted by KenjiFox

The air pressure lifts the rear of the vehicle by the original weight supporting point. The rear axle of the vehicle. It doesn't put any extra weight on the trailer axle, and merely shifts the weight BACK to the front tires. It doesn't apply any extra. Depending on the distance between your rear axle and your hitch ball you can figure out how much weight is removed from the front wheels. The shorter the distance the better when it comes to sway and front wheel weight reduction. Yes, a WDH will push the front of the car down but it is almost NEVER needed. Just keeping the vehicle level while towing will keep it safely in control. I suggested softer spring bars when towing our lightweight trailers because they tend to have lighter gauge steel frames, and because quite honestly they are so light that it really shouldn't be needed even for small vehicles. (Take mine for example.)...

I do not believe that adding air to the rear suspension can shift weight to the tow vehicle's front tires. The same weight is still in the same place on the ball and on the rear suspension; the air merely stiffens that suspension and helps it carry the weight. If weight has been off-loaded from the front axle via leverage, that weight remains off-loaded even when air is added to the rear shocks.

Whether a WDH is "needed" or not can sometimes be a matter of personal opinion. Some folks are more averse to rear end squat than others! And some vehicles are more susceptible to it than others; for example, when Can-Am RV outfits a Jetta for towing, they always include WD to redistribute some weight to both the front axle and the trailer axle. One factor is the tow vehicle's rear overhang length; the more of it you have, the more leverage is applied by the trailer and the more weight is shifted off the front axle (in the absence of WD).

[Gilles]

Originally Posted by Mike Magee

I do not believe that adding air to the rear suspension can shift weight to the tow vehicle's front tires. The same weight is still in the same place on the ball and on the rear suspension; the air merely stiffens that suspension and helps it carry the weight. If weight has been off-loaded from the front axle via leverage, that weight remains off-loaded even when air is added to the rear shocks.

I agree with this line of thinking, Mike.

[Gilles]

With the stabilizer, I do not exceed the weight permitted for the vehicle, I make it safe just making sure that the four wheels of the tow vehicle to have the same grip with the road, before and after having attached the trailer.

To support this idea, when I have a chance, I will go to road scales, not far from me and I will take notes separately the weight applied to the front and rear of my vehicle without the trailer and accompanied the caravan weight stabiilsateurs.

This should indicate to me that the proportion of weight remained equal, there is only the extra weight that the trailer has been getting split between the front and rear of the vehicle.

[Carol H]

Originally Posted by KenjiFox

Your truck should be well equipped to safely tow that trailer even without any form or anti sway or weight distribution. l[/URL]

The above is a bit misleading. A well equipped set up with safety in mind, will always include an anti sway device for those one off situations.

[redbarron55]

Originally Posted by Mike Magee

I do not believe that adding air to the rear suspension can shift weight to the tow vehicle's front tires. The same weight is still in the same place on the ball and on the rear suspension; the air merely stiffens that suspension and helps it carry the weight. If weight has been off-loaded from the front axle via leverage, that weight remains off-loaded even when air is added to the rear shocks.

Whether a WDH is "needed" or not can sometimes be a matter of personal opinion. Some folks are more averse to rear end squat than others! And some vehicles are more susceptible to it than others; for example, when Can-Am RV outfits a Jetta for towing, they always include WD to redistribute some weight to both the front axle and the trailer axle. One factor is the tow vehicle's rear overhang length; the more of it you have, the more leverage is applied by the trailer and the more weight is shifted off the front axle (in the absence of WD).

Your statement is exactly correct.
This is why the VW Golf is rated better than the Wagen - more overhang!
In Europe many cars are equipped with HID lights and they are required (as in the US) to have self leveling features, either the suspension or the lights themselves.
I chose the air bags to level and get the light correct AND to keep the suspension alignment correct.
Another benefit of the air bags is the stiffening of the rear springs. This raises the resonant frequency of the back and helps prevent the oscillation inception.
When springs are loaded there is a frequency that the springs resonant, adding weight lowers that frequency. If this coincides with the frequency of the coupling of the trailer / car combination any deviation will tend to increase and not be damped. At this point the dreaded sway starts and increases.
The resonant frequency is increased with the square of the speed and at some point this frequency matches the resonant frequency of the tow vehicle.
The air bags let you selectively increase both the ride height and the resonant frequency of the rear end.
In other words the stiffer the better. (within reason).
The spring rate is measured in inches of deflection per lb of load.
Obviously if the spring has been raised 1 1/2" the rate has been increased. Also the bag adds damping with the friction between the bag and coils

[KenjiFox]

Originally Posted by Carol H

The above is a bit misleading. A well equipped set up with safety in mind, will always include an anti sway device for those one off situations.

This is why I welded the smaller anti sway balls permanently to my trailers frame, and to my draw bar. I just don't NEED to use them to feel safe towing. If the trailer and tow combo do not feel safe enough on an average non wind etc extremes without one, then it isn't safe with one.

[KenjiFox]

Originally Posted by Mike Magee

I do not believe that adding air to the rear suspension can shift weight to the tow vehicle's front tires. The same weight is still in the same place on the ball and on the rear suspension; the air merely stiffens that suspension and helps it carry the weight. If weight has been off-loaded from the front axle via leverage, that weight remains off-loaded even when air is added to the rear shocks.

Half correct.
The leverage weight is still removed from the front tires, yes. As I said. The distance from the rear axle can be used to calculate that. However, the TILT of the vehicle itself is what removes most weight. Tilting back means the center of gravity is now further back. That's all.

[redbarron55]

Originally Posted by KenjiFox

Half correct.
The leverage weight is still removed from the front tires, yes. As I said. The distance from the rear axle can be used to calculate that. However, the TILT of the vehicle itself is what removes most weight. Tilting back means the center of gravity is now further back. That's all.

I don't believe that air bag leveling changes the weight distribution to any appreciable amount, but the sagging rear end does affect the suspension.
If the front is unloaded and the rear is lower then the geometry id off and handling could be easily degraded.
The rear of the VW gains a little camber with a little lower so I raise the rear to about 1/2 inch lower than unladen.
I can't speak for the anti-sway since I don't have the fittings for the addition to the Westfalia setup, but if I could get a UK setup I would use it.
It would shift the weight a little and serve as an anti-sway,

[KenjiFox]

Some of those light duty anti sway devices from other countries look like the EXACT kind that would be perfect for our trailers here. They could even be beneficial for the attachment points of the hitch system on lighter vehicles. The reason there being that they would take some stress off of the bolts closest to the ball on the hitch. Usually all of the weight is trying to twist the hitch off of the car, where with a really LIGHT WDH you get a more even downward force across all of the bolts. Too heavy though and the forces are just amplified so much there is no way to get a benefit.

Those ones look so light that I wouldn't see them as a problem for the lighter duty steel frames our trailers have. I don't want to mislead anyone in either direction.
The concept of weight distribution is sound, and in many cases works great. I just wanted to point out HOW it works, and what effect it has on many setups. This way people can make a more informed decision. I've heard a lot of people say that you should run a weight distribution hitch on EVERY trailer, no matter what. Even little dinky 200lb harbor freight utility trailers. I bought my Scamp from one such individual, and he broke my trailer clean in half at the tongue. Those super light systems look great though. As mentioned the steering and wheel angle geometry of the vehicle can change dramatically based on the squat caused by the trailer. Depending on the vehicle, this is where most of the handling issues come from. Most vehicles are heavy in the front where the engine usually is. (Does not apply to the Vanagon )
A few hundred pounds on the end of a few foot pole isn't going to remove a whole lot of weight from those front tires. The entire vehicle tilting backwards as without any air suspension however will do so very quickly.