Weight Distribution Hitch

[redbarron55]

Perhaps the new SAE towing specifications have something to do with the requirements as each combination needs to meet the handling criterion under many conditions.
There is no doubt you can pull higher weights than that 5000 lbs, but does the combination meet the specifications of the SAE standard now being met by all manufacturers.
No worries, unless the ever present lawyers were to get involved and can prove that there was a problem.
while you can tow without the hitch for over 5-6000 lbs you do not meet the recommendations of the manufacturers as I understand them.
I know that my Town and Country requires a WDH over 1800 lbs and while it is a little of a PITA I do use it.
While I can tow without it the ride is less "Humpy" and more stable and comfortable.

[MTRCYCMAN]

Ok, if I am trying to figure up my total trailer weight, do I add the Base Dry Weight and the Average Hitch weight that is listed on the trailer specs sheet? Or is the Base Dry Weight the total trailer weight?

[cpaharley2008]

Originally Posted by MTRCYCMAN

Ok, if I am trying to figure up my total trailer weight, do I add the Base Dry Weight and the Average Hitch weight that is listed on the trailer specs sheet? Or is the Base Dry Weight the total trailer weight?

The only way is to get it weighed! You need the axle weight and the tongue weight to get total weight. The weight should be "wet" in that ready for camping, not bare and empty. Propane, water in systems, packed and ready to roll.

[John in Santa Cruz]

it will take two passes through the truck scales... park and unhitch the trailer somewhere out of the way, and for the first pass, just run your tow vehicle through, they will give you front axle (A) and both axles (B, total weight of truck).

now hitch up the trailer again, and run through again, and they'll give you front axle (C), both vehicle axles (D), and vehicle+trailer total weight (E)

(E-B ) should be the trailer total weight.
(D-B ) should be the hitch weight
(E-D) is the trailer axle weight
(D-C) should be the rear axle weight of your tow vehicle.

and of course, (C) is the front axle weight of the tow vehicle when towing.

[Rzrbrn]

I have never used scales. John, would you not want to engage the WDH then make perhaps a third pass to find the transfered weight to the front truck axle, to the rear truck axle and perhaps the trailer to see how much weight has been rearranged by the WDH?

[John in Santa Cruz]

if the WDH keeps the tug level I wouldn't worry about the third reading, unless your front axle weight was already close to the vehicles front GAWR

[Wayne Collins]

Originally Posted by MTRCYCMAN

Ok, if I am trying to figure up my total trailer weight, do I add the Base Dry Weight and the Average Hitch weight that is listed on the trailer specs sheet? Or is the Base Dry Weight the total trailer weight?

Dry Wt. should be the total weight, … of an empty trailer.
To know what the actual weight you are towing is, so you can set tire pressure accordingly. You must run it onto a scale when fully loaded with all your stuff, and full tanks.
Hitch weight should be 10 - 15% of the total weight.

[Borrego Dave]

Originally Posted by MTRCYCMAN

Ok, if I am trying to figure up my total trailer weight, do I add the Base Dry Weight and the Average Hitch weight that is listed on the trailer specs sheet? Or is the Base Dry Weight the total trailer weight?

The factory dry weights listed are a nice selling point but not real world numbers. Almost seems they got those #s after the shell was mounted to the frame making it "rolling"....then added everything else . I think Ollie is the only one to weigh the finished unit for true numbers. The only way you'll know for sure is a scale trip.

[Glenn Baglo]

Dry weight is the true, real world weight of the trailer, without propane, water, options and personal effects. It is useful for comparing different trailer brands and sizes.

The only way you'll know for sure what your trailer weighs, loaded for camping, is a scale trip.

[jamwolfe1950]

As others have noted, you don't NEED a WDH. However, they have the effect of reducing the pitching motion of the rig while towing. I also have a light trailer and a 3/4 ton pickup. At rest, the tongue weight only pushes down the rear end a couple of inches - well within specs. However, in motion there's a difference. Go over a bump and the tongue pushes the rear end down, and then pulls it up. First your headlights point at the sky and then at the road. It's a jerky feeling. The WDH, when the same bump happens, puts more weight on the front of the TV and the trailer axle(s), smoothing out the pitching motion some. Good shocks on the TV help damp the motion, too. I find the ride to be much smoother with the WDH. Also, I don't need to readjust the headlights when towing.

[CharlesinGA]

The "2003 Ram Truck Diesel Owners Manual" (I have one, the truck and the manual) says that with the Class IV frame mounted hitch, supplied as part of the trailer prep package (factory install) you can tow a trailer with a gross weight of up to 10,000 lb and a tongue weight of 10% to 15% (look on page 237)

Further on, it states that an equalizing hitch is required for Class III and IV hitches AND tongue weights above 350 lbs. (page 239)

On the same page, it has in bold print that the max weight on a Class III (the bumper ball) is 500 lbs and class IV (the receiver hitch) is limited to 1000 lb tongue weight. It states that this requirement overrides any recommended GTW rating.

This means that you actually cannot tow 10,000 lbs because you realistically need a tongue weight of about 13%.

It also refers you to a "Trailer Towing Guide" available from your Dodge dealer.

Its as clear as mud since some of the info contradicts other info.

Genos has a Dodge Ram info section that says that a '03 std cab 2x4 (mine) has a max towing weight of 13,750 lbs and a GCWR of 20,000, with the diesel and either 3.73 or 4.10 axle.

Charles

[John in Santa Cruz]

GCWR of 20,000 sounds to me like a 2500 or 3500 class truck, not a 1500.

[CharlesinGA]

Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz

GCWR of 20,000 sounds to me like a 2500 or 3500 class truck, not a 1500.

2500 is what the OP and I are both referring to.

Charles

[redbarron55]

You don't need a WDH, unless you are towing a trailer of 5000 lbs or more and possibly less in cases where the manufacturer calls for it.
Most pickup trucks rated for more than 5000 lbs require a WDH, but if you want to tow without one that is your choice. Perhaps a poor choice, but it is yours.

[John in Santa Cruz]

My 2002 F250 says WDH for 6500+ lbs.

but my 2008 Tacoma TRD Off Road, rode was far smoother towing a 3000-ish lb Casita 16 SD with one, at least before I added airbags. Air bags made it ride better when heavily loaded in the truck bed so that was a win for me, and I stopped using the WDH.



edit; and, I'm repeating myself, I posted almost the exact same thing a page ago, hah hah.

[MTRCYCMAN]

I am thinking of going to the airbags. Can you let the air out when not towing a trailer?

[redbarron55]

You can let almost all of the air out of the air bags, but keep a little to keep the bags from getting pinched.
The air bags will provide about 1/2 of the benefits of a WDH and actually it is a good thing to use both.
The bags will lift the rear, but will not shift the weight to the front of the vehicle to keep the suspension balanced.
I used air bags on my VW Sportwagen TDI and they helped a lot and leveled the rig, but a WDH (not available for the VW) would have made it much better.
It is individual choice or rather decision.
In my opinion it would be best to follow the manufacturer's recommendations.

[John in Santa Cruz]

with the RideRite style airbags, you can either go for manual inflation, where you have ideally 2 schraeder (tire) valves, or you can spend more and get an onboard inflator system, with dashboard controls and pressure monitoring. the fancier inflator systems have a air quick-release fitting you can put an air hose on and use them to inflate your tires (particularly useful if you use your truck offroad when you're not towing, and deflate your tires to 25 PSI or whatever for sand traction, then reinflate to highway pressures when you get back to pavement).

you want the left and right airbag plumbed separately, this keeps sway to a minimum.

[Rzrbrn]

I have the Firestone air suspension with remote control and on broad air pump. What a pain in the butt. Do not get remote control. Get the one with the gauges or the manual; without the on board air pump, just the air valves.

The remote seldom picks up the signal as in 90% of the time it does not pick up, then you have to fidget. It controller cannot set around with the batteries in it, the batt's must be taken out even single time.

[John in Santa Cruz]

Originally Posted by Rzrbrn

I have the Firestone air suspension with remote control and on broad air pump. What a pain in the butt. Do not get remote control. Get the one with the gauges or the manual; without the on board air pump, just the air valves.

The remote seldom picks up the signal as in 90% of the time it does not pick up, then you have to fidget. It controller cannot set around with the batteries in it, the batt's must be taken out even single time.

that sounds like a wireless system, and yeah, wireless is sketchy. I believe they have a hard wired controller, which yes, requires you run a cable from the compressor to the dashboard, but then there's no batteries, and it always works.