For the record I don't use a weight distribution system. I simply keep the tongue weight to 200 lbs.
I didn't think you did, Norm- neither do I...and W/D systems are really the subject of the thread, though somehow we always seem to get sidetracked into weight limit discussions!
Back on track:
Hey, Jon!
It's still unclear to me why you think it necessary to install a W/D hitch on this car- especially since we don't even know what it is you want to tow!
Francesca
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By the way, per an earlier reference to someone's problems with undercarriage etc. that the O.P. confused with one of Norm's posts:
If memory serves, I think the member involved there was Norman Choiniere (sp.?)...seems like he had a W/D hitch installation do considerable damage to his vehicle, which I believe was a CRV...
Perhaps there was someone with a CRV with a W/D issue but I believe the OP was referring to a post by Barrie Bochoff titled "Jetta Towing Issues... caution" who towing his Trillium with a Jetta, couldn't say enough good things about it until a year later then the hitch started to ripped out from its attachment points on the car. He retired the Jetta from towing.
Perhaps there was someone with a CRV with a W/D issue but I believe the OP was referring to a post by Barrie Bochoff titled "Jetta Towing Issues... caution" who towing his Trillium with a Jetta, couldn't say enough good things about it until a year later then the hitch started to ripped out from its attachment points on the car. He retired the Jetta from towing.
Abo-slutely right, Carol! Guess I thought the O.P. was confusing the two "Norms"...
Just looked at Barrie's thread, and it looks like the hitch involved wasn't a W/D, but sounds like the problem was definitely related to attaching to the sheet metal body of the vehicle. http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...ion-48546.html
Best expressed by member McBrew on page two of that thread, I think- here quoting: " The problem is that most people are not using the correct mounting points. The German hitches bolt to the bumper mounting points and are rated to tow around 3,500 pounds, depending on then year, engine, and transmission. US hitches for Jettas/Golfs mount to the thin sheet metal of the spare tire well on the left and the tow hook on the right. "
Francesca
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Here is some info from another Norm, using a w/d hitch will add more stress to a receiver and it's attachment points. If a receiver failed just due to use, it will fail earlier if a w/d hitch is in place.
I'm picking up my new-to-me 2010 Jetta TDI on friday. I'm planning on installing a Westfalia hitch (or towbar as the Europeans refer to it). It is the factory recommended hitch and is rated high enough for my needs and would have a nice clean install.
I'm not really interested in discussing the towing capabilities. I've done my research and I've decided that I'm towing a trailer with it. I haven't selected the trailer yet but it will be within the European specs VW advertises for tow weight and tongue weight. Before you jump down my throat about towing with a car watch this:
I will be using the factory OEM hitch (ordered from Europe) that VW used to get these numbers. The hitch is in 2 parts. It has a removable "swan neck".
My question is about the fact that I'd like to have weight distribution on the hitch. Something like this setup:
No, I'm not planning on towing a 4000lb airstream, but I'd love to have a hitch like this.
Basically I'm thinking about cutting the swan neck of the Westfalia hitch and welding on the shank (or the slot for the shank to fit into) from the weight distribution hitch.
Something like this:
That way the whole thing would pop on and off easily. I'd have it welded by a professional welder.
Does this seem like it'll work well? I'd like some intelligent feedback from some more experienced towers out there. Thanks!
1st. what trailer will you be towing and what is its weight, and tongue weight?
2nd. do you need a weight distribution hitch? or want it?
as i understand it most small trailers, that is light trailers, don't need,,,or do particularly well with a weight distribution system.
so in a sense, i think your putting the cart before the horse a little.
if i were you i would do this.
determine exactly what trailer i want to pull. find out its total weight....its tongue weight... calculate how much additional you will add...such as food, drinks,,clothing, television,, radio,,,fishing equipment,,,weightlifting equipment,,,,you get the picture,,,what every your going to take.
then determine if your actually in the ballpark for what the tow vehicle will do. and if you need or don't need a weight distribution hitch.
until you know exactly what your pulling,,, there is no way to determine what you need.
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Originally Posted by Francesca Knowles;341834
Best expressed by member McBrew on page two of that thread, I think- here quoting:[B
" The problem is that most people are not using the correct mounting points. The German hitches bolt to the bumper mounting points and are rated to tow around 3,500 pounds, depending on then year, engine, and transmission. US hitches for Jettas/Golfs mount to the thin sheet metal of the spare tire well on the left and the tow hook on the right. "[/B]
Francesca you've got it. It simply highlights the fact that VW isn't building the cars it sells in NA to tow. If they were they would be providing better reinforced attachment points to allow a NA style hitch to be installed as other foreign automakers that have rated their cars to tow in NA do. You can install a German hitch to the VW but that requires that another mandatory safety feature in NA be cut out of the rear bumper area. It leaves one to wonder what other components on the car being sold in NA differ from the European model that VW feels makes it not worthy of towing in NA and perhaps the reason why they haven't made the small change to their design to allow a NA style hitch to be installed securely.
I also dont use a WD hitch either and agree if you need one you probable have another serious problem with your set up that needs to be addressed. Actually my cars manufacture actually states in the manual they are not to be used.
boler manual recommends a WD system when towing with a car
I pulls very well at 90 km/h no problems at all, will not win any races but when camping that is not the goal.
Why would you go with the suggestion of a manual that was written YEARS before most of the auto systems used today were even invented? Better question is to ask is what you car manual says? oh wait I suspect most of us already know what your manual says on the topic of towing
Yup the one built in Europe sure is. Unfortunately if you go back to the start of this thread you will see that you will need to move to Europe to get that tow car of the year.
HOWEVER:
As Carol said, it should be noted that the Jetta in that competition is very different from the car sold in North America, beginning of course with its diesel engine.
And I'd like to restate for the record that I in no way think that the O.P.'s North American 2010 Jetta is unfit to tow a trailer...my position is only that the hitch system/modifications proposed are not only unnecessary, but may do more harm to the car than good for the tow. This especially if there's any warranty left on this newer vehicle, since aftermarket modifications often void important parts of vehicle warranties.
Francesca
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Yup the one built in Europe sure is. Unfortunately if you go back to the start of this thread you will see that you will need to move to Europe to get that tow car of the year.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Carol H
VW sure does. So I am assuming you are aware that the Jetta TDI being built and sold in North America is not at all the same car they are selling in Europe which is the bases for the difference in towing capacity. According to VW everything about them is different including the engines and the power, they say the only thing the two have in common is the chassis. I suspect its what those in the engineering field would call comparing "Apples to Oranges".
BTW, if you watch the video, the VW rep states that the chassis is identical. After a fair amount of research, I've verified that the engine is identical, other than the emissions systems. Even if it wasn't, 240ft-lb of torque is not my limiting factor. That leaves the brakes, which are also identical (plus I have trailer brakes and a top-of-the-line brake controller, and BTW they don't use trailer brakes in Europe), brakes are not my limiting factor either. Then there is the suspension and shocks, which I honestly couldn't determine if they were identical. Even if they are, I'm upgrading the shocks and adding a sway bar.
The other major difference between Euro and USA versions are the finish materials, like fake leather seats and steering wheel vs real leather in Europe. Oh and there is also an inferior audio system. Unfortunate as that is, I'll live.
I'm trying to go above any beyond what is required in Europe at the same ratings as I'm using an excellent trailer brake setup and will have a WDH as well. Plus I'm adding an additional attachment point for this hitch forward of the rear axle, which is a significant improvement.
UPS just delivered the Euro Hitch (or tow bar as they call it) from the UK, which is far superior to anything available here. The original purpose of this thread was to get ideas and feedback on how to add a WDH to said towbar, not to bicker over the towing capacity of my car. I do appreciate the concern though. Any more feedback on how to get a WDH on this hitch would be appreciated.
Any more comments about how the Euro version is a "completely different car" are your opinion and you are entitled to them. I'm just not interested in spending more time arguing over it. Thanks.
Sometimes I wonder why some questions are even asked when an answer isn't really wanted.....
In as much as a WD hitch would place exactly the opposite pressure on the indicated mount, unless the mfg gives an okey-dokey, I wouldn't even think of making this somwhat Disneyesque modification to a new (or used) vehicle. Add to that, the trailer and hitch weigh is still an unknown, making it a somewhat moot issue.
May I suggest that the "outside the box" peeps talk amoung themselves as they usually aren't intrested in the opinions of those of us that are sooooo boring in taking the safe route on things.
Doing the wrong thing successfully, doesn't make it the right thing
to do.
And Yes.... "You can always tell an enginer, you just can't tell them much!"
Any more comments about how the Euro version is a "completely different car" are your opinion and you are entitled to them. I'm just not interested in spending more time arguing over it. Thanks.
Jon I am afraid you are going to have to get use to it or have a moderator edit your first post to reflect what car you have actually purchased as it is causing some confusion.
Unfortunately you indicated in your first post that you where buying a Jetta TDI but it was not until post #10 that you clarified that the car you you are actually purchasing is a Jetta Sportwagen also known as a Golf in NA and a Golf Saloon in Europe.
As by now you are surely aware the Volkswagen Jetta Sport 2.0TDI DSG which was rated in by the UK Caravan as the "Tow of the year" is not your car or the same Jetta TDI as sold in North America!
"Any more comments about how the Euro version is a "completely different car" are your opinion and you are entitled to them. I'm just not interested in spending more time arguing over it. Thanks."
Seems the OP has made up their mind and is not interested in any more answers?
[QUOTE=ostojo;344463 BTW they don't use trailer brakes in Europe.[/QUOTE]
Remember folks you heard that from a engineer who has done their homework!
I would suggest it might be prudent for anyone considering towing in the UK to double check the accuracy of that information before hitting the road. Its possible that in the UK that brakes are required on any trailer weighing more the 750KG/1653lbs or that weighs more than half the curb weight to the car towing it or something along those lines.
This conversation is reminding me more and more of the time my Engineer husband very patronizingly attempted to explain to my ignorant self how the water in a garden stream project was going to flow from one point to another without the use of a pump- despite the fact that it was perfectly clear to my naked eye that this would defy the laws of gravity!
I actually had to build a model for him before he abandoned his position...he was so ensnared by whatever "calculations" he'd made- not to mention his vast experience- that he literally couldn't see that despite his seven years of college he was simply dead wrong.
Anyway, and for what it's worth;
The O.P. is incorrect in his assertion re. trailer brake use in Europe...here are the rules, followed by a link to the source:
Quote:
3 :Brakes
Braking requirements are prescribed in Regulations 15 and 16 of The Road Vehicles (Construction &Use) Regulations 1986 as amended.
A trailer with a maximum design laden weight of more than 750 kg must be braked.
An inertia (overrun) type braking system may be used up to a maximum permissible laden weight of 3500kg. It is not permitted to use an unbraked trailer, the laden weight of which exceeds 50% of the kerbside weight of the towing vehicle.
For trailers up to 1500kg laden weight, it is permitted to use secondary coupling, which in the event of separation (NOT failure) of the main coupling, will retain the trailer attached to the towing vehicle, prevent the nose of the trailer from touching the ground and provide some residual steering of the trailer.
Above 1500 kg laden weight, the trailer must be fitted with a device to stop the trailer automatically in the event of separation (NOT failure) of the main coupling. This is normally achieved by a breakaway cable attached to the parking brake mechanism where the trailer becomes detached from the towing vehicle.
Waltzin' Matrillda
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1992 Scamp Side bath
Prairie Schooner
Boler
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