what class hitch ? - Fiberglass RV


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Old 02-26-2014, 08:44 AM   #1
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Name: Allan
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what class hitch ?

We have a 2012 Rav4 6 cylinder with tow package rated to tow 3500 lbs.
We have a class 2 hitch also rated @ 3500 lbs
With a Lil Snoozy on order, I'm wondering if I should move to a class 3 hitch ?
Thanx for any
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Old 02-26-2014, 10:28 AM   #2
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How much does the Snoozy weigh and what is the tongue weight? If it's under 3500 loaded, and your tongue is under 350 lbs, you don't need a new hitch.

If it is pushing close to those #s, I would go up, just for the buffer of safety.

It doesn't hurt anything to put on a bigger hitch, as long as you understand that a bigger hitch does not translate into higher towing capacity for your Rav. A class 3 will give you a 2"x2" receiver option and allow you to use it for other things, such as bike racks and carrier platforms. But, if that isn't a concern for you, then keep the one you already have.
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Old 02-26-2014, 11:11 AM   #3
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I know lots of people here who will say go big or go home but I pulled a 2600lb trailer with a class II hitch with no issues for six years. A class II hitch is rated for 3500lbs giving me an almost 1000lb margin of error. You do need to watch the tongue weight rating though as the Class II hitch can vary - have seen some with only a 300lb tongue rating. Also watch that the receiver and ball you purchase meets or beats your trailers weight requirements as the ones that fit the Class II also vary greatly.

There is often a lot to be said by going with the vehicle manufactures factory tow package. They normally have a hitch that was designed for their vehicle and is better secured to the vehicle i.e. its attachment points are probable reinforced. If you where to take it to an after market hitch installer they may drill a number of new holes and attachment points in order to fit a generic hitch to the vehicle.

You can also get bike racks for the Class II receiver from most of the larger bike rack manufactures such as Yakama and Thule. If you move up to a Class III hitch at a later date you can always get a spacer from them that will work with a bike rack made for a Class II hitch to fit the Class III, so all is not lost.
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Old 02-26-2014, 11:15 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by starfighter View Post
We have a 2012 Rav4 6 cylinder with tow package rated to tow 3500 lbs.
We have a class 2 hitch also rated @ 3500 lbs
With a Lil Snoozy on order, I'm wondering if I should move to a class 3 hitch ?
Thanx for any
The hitch capacity can't be any greater than the attachment points which are likely the same with both hitches. If your ClassII is factory then it will surely perform as rated.
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Old 02-26-2014, 11:17 AM   #5
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I have 2008 RAV4 V6 Sport and had the dealer install a class III hitch instead of the factory class II so I could use a Weight Distribution Hitch.
My tongue weight is 320# and my driving experience benefits considerably from use of WDH.
I've towed short distances without it ( couple miles ), and I wouldn't want to go further without it. Without, the back of the RAV bounces up and down with every little bump. With WDH, tow and trailer feel like a single unit.
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Old 02-26-2014, 11:53 AM   #6
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Glenn has a very good point about the weight distribution hitch. If you want to use a wdh system, you have to go to a class 3.
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Old 02-26-2014, 12:00 PM   #7
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My hitch receiver is Hidden Hitch. They don't just make one hitch for all vehicles, requiring custom holes to be drilled. They make specific hitches for specific vehicles.
Not sure what it means, but Hidden Hitch rates the one I got for the RAV4 at 4,000 lb. tow and 400 lbs. tongue weight.
I'm sticking with the 3,500 / 350 that Toyota specifies as tow capacity for my vehicle.
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Old 02-26-2014, 01:06 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gina D. View Post
Glenn has a very good point about the weight distribution hitch. If you want to use a wdh system, you have to go to a class 3.
Yup he makes a good point..... got to go with class III if you need a WD hitch.
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Old 02-26-2014, 01:23 PM   #9
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Derek tried airbags on his RAV4 and eventually gave in and got a WDH.
Of course, then he bought a truck ( more suited to his camping style ).
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Old 02-26-2014, 01:36 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Glenn Baglo View Post
My hitch receiver is Hidden Hitch. They don't just make one hitch for all vehicles, requiring custom holes to be drilled. They make specific hitches for specific vehicles.
Very true Glenn, the first Hidden Hitch I had installed did use the same attachment points that the factory would have used....or I believe it did. Unfortunately I had issues with rust on that hitch so 4 years later it was replaced under Hidden Hitch's warranty program. The hitch they put on it the second time looked a bit different than the first one. When I asked why it was different from the first one I was told they stopped making the first one as they had stream lined their line-up a little so that more than one make/models of car could use the new hitches offered. Although it seemed to fit and look great it did need to have a couple of new attachment points made (which they did tell me about prior) on the vehicle that the first one didn't require.
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Old 02-26-2014, 02:06 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by starfighter View Post
We have a 2012 Rav4 6 cylinder with tow package rated to tow 3500 lbs.
We have a class 2 hitch also rated @ 3500 lbs
With a Lil Snoozy on order, I'm wondering if I should move to a class 3 hitch ?
Thanx for any
Doesn't the Snoozy come with surge-type brakes? If so, you can't use a weight distributing hitch (or sway bar) with this trailer.

There's no other reason to change the hitch, the one you have already providing capacity equal to the highest possible limits of the vehicle itself.
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