What do I need to tow a Casita with a Nissan Frontier? - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 04-14-2015, 11:18 PM   #15
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Name: William
Trailer: Casita SD17
New Jersey
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Originally Posted by Carol H View Post
I have the Pro X which has a slightly beefed up suspension so have not found any need for a Weigh Distribution Hitch (WDH) but I have added a anti sway bar.

I would suggest that before adding the anti sway bar that you will want to work on getting your set up as stable as it can be - balancing out the trailers load and different drops on the stringer etc - so you are sure the anti sway bar is not whats keeping the trailer stable and its only for that one off emergency - only way to do that is to try towing it a few times without one.

I picked up this awesome Reese Sway-control mounting bracket for the ball so that the anti sway bar on the trailer can be easily moved over to any vehicle the trailer is pulled with without the need to weld a plate onto the stringer for the anti sway ball mount.
I got the anti-sway option, but if they deliver it, I will need to add a 3rd party adapter. They said that normally they weld something on to the hitch. Your link looks like the adapter they mentioned. Is that what it is?
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Old 04-14-2015, 11:38 PM   #16
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Trailer: Casita SD17
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Thanks for all the info and links, everyone. I ordered a new Casita, so I definitely have to learn this stuff. I am currently planning to have it delivered, so I may not benefit from the people at the Casita factory helping me in-person. The "stinger" is going to be tricky, because they will deliver it to me, and I guess I will have to order one before I can move the Casita. It will be delivered to a friend's house, and their driveway is not level, so I will have to figure it out. Maybe I can just measure from the ground to the hitch on the RV, and compare it to the hitch receiver on my truck, and figure out what type of elevation I need on the "stinger". It will take 2-3 months for them to build it, so I have some time to educate myself.

I took some pictures of the connectors on the back of my truck, I will measure the square hitch-receiver tube tomorrow. I assume it is 2".
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Old 04-15-2015, 12:52 AM   #17
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Bill, that's a 2" receiver, kind of standard. You need to have the LP tanks full and the trailer pretty much loaded to get the correct hitch ball height. Barrow someones (before buying the wrong size) stinger so you can move it to a flat location to measure. While still connected measure how low the tongue is down or up. Disconnect the hitch, raise/lower the trailer until you are level or just a bit down and measure that. The difference is what you need to make up. If you're using say a 2" drop hitch and raise the trailer up 4" to level then you would need a 6" drop stinger with it turned so the drop is a raise. Stingers are made to be used in either position. Pretty simple, don't over think it.
BT, I've got a SD17, my TW ready for traveling is 364#...the 17's are heavy on the nose.
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Old 04-15-2015, 04:03 AM   #18
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........... No need for wire nuts or soldering. E-trailer sells the cable that will plug into the factory installed connection for $14.
Progress, gotta love it.


Quote:
The "stinger" is going to be tricky, because they will deliver it to me, and I guess I will have to order one before I can move the Casita.
Stingers come in standard sizes. Because they are reversible, they are x inches up or y inches down. I would suggest calling the folks at Casita. They will tell you what to measure and tell you what you need. Buy the ball, stinger, and pin at the local RV shop. Have them mount the ball as it needs to be torqued quite high.


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It will be delivered to a friend's house, and their driveway is not level, so I will have to figure it out.

While you are at the RV shop pick up 4 wheel chocks.
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Old 04-15-2015, 01:38 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by whoot View Post
I got the anti-sway option, but if they deliver it, I will need to add a 3rd party adapter. They said that normally they weld something on to the hitch. Your link looks like the adapter they mentioned. Is that what it is?
Yes Having it means you do not need to weld the ball mounting plate for the anti sway bar onto your stringer - the anti sway bar will come packaged with a ball mounting plate that needs to be welded to what ever stringer you use - its not the main hitch itself. It makes it so you can move the anti sway bar over to use on another vehicle &/or stringer easily should you purchase a different stringer in the future .
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Old 04-15-2015, 01:47 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by P. Raz View Post
Progress, gotta love it.

.
Yup, was grinning ear to ear when it took me less than 10 min (most of the time spent trying to decide where to put the controller itself) to plug in the controller and mount it and have it working in the Frontier - total cost of mounting the controller I already owned = $14 .

Very different experience time and cost wise than the one had with wiring up the Subaru to use the controller.
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Old 06-10-2015, 09:48 PM   #21
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Name: William
Trailer: Casita SD17
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My Casita is going to be delivered in about 3 weeks, so I am trying to get ready. I have purchased a wide assortment of things. I got a P2 Prodigy controller, and an adapter for my Nissan Frontier, but I took it to a mechanic to install it, and he said I already had a built in brake controller.

My Casita invoice said I need a Class 3 hitch with a 2" ball, and the top of the ball has to be 20" off the ground. I measured the ground to the top of the hitch receiver, and it was 17.5 inches. So with a 2" ball, it would be 19.5 inches. It sounds like I need a Class 3 hitch with 2" ball and "3/4 rise", like this one:

Amazon.com: Rigid Class III 2" Ball Mount Kit Loaded with 2" Ball - 3/4" Rise: Automotive

Does that sound correct?

Should I get an adjustable hitch, in case my truck breaks down, and I have to switch TV? Or I need to tow something else? Like this one:

Robot Check
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Old 06-10-2015, 10:34 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by whoot View Post
My Casita is going to be delivered in about 3 weeks, so I am trying to get ready. I have purchased a wide assortment of things. I got a P2 Prodigy controller, and an adapter for my Nissan Frontier, but I took it to a mechanic to install it, and he said I already had a built in brake controller.

]
Did he actually say you have a built in "brake controller" or that the plug & wiring for the brake controller is already there - which it is. I did not think Nissan offers a built in break controller. The plug for the brake controller is located right under the dash by the steering column. A white plastic connection that the adapter you purchased for the P2 just pushes into.

Could be wrong though - check your manual to see if it has any info regarding a built in break controller.
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Old 06-10-2015, 10:38 PM   #23
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You measured to the top of the receiver, but that won't be the height of the mounting point of the ball because it will have drop (or rise flipped over). Keep in mind, the trailer will cause the rear of your truck to drop a bit when you hook it up. Stingers an balls aren't too expensive and you might be able to get one to try at a local store. You could return it for the more correct one if it doesn't work out. In my experience, the hitch is better a little low than too high. Keep within an inch.
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Old 06-10-2015, 10:47 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by whoot View Post

My Casita invoice said I need a Class 3 hitch with a 2" ball, and the top of the ball has to be 20" off the ground. I measured the ground to the top of the hitch receiver, and it was 17.5 inches. So with a 2" ball, it would be 19.5 inches. It sounds like I need a Class 3 hitch with 2" ball and "3/4 rise", like this one:
[/url]
I would not get a riser. Just go with a straight bar to start with as 3/4" is not much to be short by & remember that the back of the truck will drop a little when you hook the trailer up to it. Always a better tow to have the tongue sitting lower than sitting to high.

You may find you end up wanting/needing something with a 1 or 2" drop for a solid tow.

I actually use a 4" drop on my Nissan Frontier with the PROx package with my Scamp 16 which only has a tongue weight of 250lbs loaded. Its an older trailer so the axle is sitting lower than your new trailer will be though. But I have found the tow to be more stable the more weight you put on the tongue though so the back of the truck will drop a bit.
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Old 06-10-2015, 10:54 PM   #25
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Just did a Google and it looks like Nissan is offering a built in controller on the Titan now - so maybe they are on the new Fronters as well.

Do you have something that looks like this on your dash?
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Old 06-11-2015, 12:50 AM   #26
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Name: William
Trailer: Casita SD17
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Just did a Google and it looks like Nissan is offering a built in controller on the Titan now - so maybe they are on the new Fronters as well.

Do you have something that looks like this on your dash?
I will check in the morning. I think I am going to have call the Nissan dealership and give them my VIN, so they can tell me what was installed, and what exactly was included in the "tow package". On the clubfrontier website, people have the tow-package, but still had to use a 3rd party brake controller.
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Old 06-11-2015, 03:50 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by whoot View Post
My Casita invoice said I need a Class 3 hitch with a 2" ball, and the top of the ball has to be 20" off the ground. I measured the ground to the top of the hitch receiver, and it was 17.5 inches. So with a 2" ball, it would be 19.5 inches. It sounds like I need a Class 3 hitch with 2" ball and "3/4 rise", like this one:
Amazon.com: Rigid Class III 2" Ball Mount Kit Loaded with 2" Ball - 3/4" Rise: Automotive
Does that sound correct?
Should I get an adjustable hitch, in case my truck breaks down, and I have to switch TV? Or I need to tow something else?
It sure sounds to me that your measurements are going to fine for your trailer, level or a bit down at the hitch. Don't buy anything until you actually have it hitched up so you can eyeball how it sits. Any stats you're reading are pretty much guesswork because every tow vehicle will have a different ride height and there is no sense in buying stingers by guessing. They do make hitch balls with a one inch higher base to gain a little more height if you need it. Hitches are pretty much standard to 2,4 and 6 inch drops or rises. To answer your last question, I have different stingers for different trailers I have but use the same tug. If I need to tow something for somebody else, use what is close. Actually, in 50 years I think I've only had to do that three times. Don't over think it, it's not rocket science.
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Old 06-11-2015, 12:25 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by whoot View Post
I will check in the morning. I think I am going to have call the Nissan dealership and give them my VIN, so they can tell me what was installed, and what exactly was included in the "tow package". On the clubfrontier website, people have the tow-package, but still had to use a 3rd party brake controller.
If it does have a built in brake controller one would expect the controls to be visible and reachable right from the drivers seat. There will also be info on how to use it in your owners manual.

I have a hunch the mechanic you took it to was trying to save you some money by having you simple plug in the controller you purchased yourself to the pre installed brake controller wiring already on the truck.

If you go to E-Trailer Tekonsha Plug-in wiring adapter for Electric Brake controller there is a video towards the bottom that shows/explains how to plug the controller in yourself. If I am not mistaken your controller should also have come with instructions for install.
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