What is the best tow vehicle for a Trillium 4500? - Page 4 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 10-30-2013, 04:11 PM   #43
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So to summarize this - the OP has a 4500lb Trillum thats probable at or over its axle limit (if the axle has not been replaced), vehicle being considered would be at 500lbs or more over on its tow specs and they should use a class I hitch which also would be maxed out at if not over its load limit rating pulling their trailer, in order to avoid the scrutiny of the local service manager should they have warranty issues due to towing over the vehicle's specs. You guys are ok with all that? Seriously???

Sounds more like a really good recipe for big troubles to me...
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Old 10-30-2013, 04:18 PM   #44
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I am not advocating either way. Just stating the facts, as I see them. I would think the fact that I upgraded the one I use to a 3500 lb axle, and a 2" coupler, indicates where I stand in terms of over loading.

This model of trailer has been in service for 36 years. Since they don't have a reputation for catastrophic failures, I can only assume there have not been many problems. Like I said, every one I have came with the original axle.

Just to clarify, it is probably a 2000 lb trailer, not 4500 lb. 4500 is the model number.
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Old 10-30-2013, 04:24 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MC1 View Post
Those Intrepid's with the 3.5L V6 were great TV's when set up right. We saw many in these parts towing TT's.
My brother, (father of said nephew) took the car and trailer combo out to, "try to loose the trailer". Apparently, this involved several high speed swerves, heavy braking, and general recklessness. He came back and said, "Neutral control response. We are good to go." Whatever that means.
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Old 10-30-2013, 04:33 PM   #46
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Originally Posted by David Tilston View Post
My brother, (father of said nephew) took the car and trailer combo out to, "try to loose the trailer". Apparently, this involved several high speed swerves, heavy braking, and general recklessness. He came back and said, "Neutral control response. We are good to go." Whatever that means.
I think I know what your brother means David.... Can-Am RV :: Intrepid towing Airstream
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Old 10-30-2013, 04:35 PM   #47
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Real men don't use 1-1/4" receiver trailer hitches !!!!!
(Real women don't either, so there!)
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Old 10-30-2013, 04:44 PM   #48
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My only complaint is that the factory tow package only comes with a 4 pole flat trailer connector, so a 7 pin RV plug has to be wired in. It can be done, but it's no piece of cake like my plug and play F-150 was!
It is not all that difficult Frank.
I picked up a Hopkins 7:4 Multi-Tow adapter.
7:4-Way Multi-Tow® Trailer Adapter | Princess Auto
You plug your 4 pin into the back of it.
If you want brakes you can run 1 wire up to your controller.
If you want power you can run 1 more wire up to the front.
If you want a continuous ground, run 1 more wire up to the front.
You can leave the 7th pin disconnected to avoid problems for most of ours.
When I first installed mine, I thought using the 7th pin would be a good idea for an additional ground to the power. I messed up and forgot the difference in colour codes for power and ground between the Tow Vehicle and the Trailer. (I wired them at different times) Things got hot very quickly. Good thing Steve_L was there to help me figure out my mistake. Even better that Carol Ann was there to see the smoke before any thing serious happened.
Now I just follow the standard pin arrangement leaving the middle pin disconnected. You never know how things might be wired on different TV's and Trailers.
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Old 10-30-2013, 05:01 PM   #49
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Originally Posted by Roy in TO View Post
It is not all that difficult Frank.
I picked up a Hopkins 7:4 Multi-Tow adapter.
7:4-Way Multi-Tow® Trailer Adapter | Princess Auto
You plug your 4 pin into the back of it.
If you want brakes you can run 1 wire up to your controller.
If you want power you can run 1 more wire up to the front.
If you want a continuous ground, run 1 more wire up to the front.
You can leave the 7th pin disconnected to avoid problems for most of ours.
When I first installed mine, I thought using the 7th pin would be a good idea for an additional ground to the power. I messed up and forgot the difference in colour codes for power and ground between the Tow Vehicle and the Trailer. (I wired them at different times) Things got hot very quickly. Good thing Steve_L was there to help me figure out my mistake. Even better that Carol Ann was there to see the smoke before any thing serious happened.
Now I just follow the standard pin arrangement leaving the middle pin disconnected. You never know how things might be wired on different TV's and Trailers.
I wish we lived closer, you could come over and do it. My 2001 F-150 didn't even come with a tow package, but I got a 7 pin wiring harness for it that just popped in between a plug on the back left chassis rail. Then under the dash, right by the OBD plug, is a plug for the brake controller. And this is for a vehicle that did not come with a tow package.

I know how to wire a 7 pin, but just do not look forward to it. It's a pain in the butt hiding the wires, getting through the firewall and finding the wire that is the brake switch wire under the dash someplace. And all this for a vehicle we bought with a factory tow package. It will take me at least 1/2 a day to get it done, partly because of age and arthritis. I do not look forward to it.

Frank
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Old 10-30-2013, 05:10 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Miller View Post
Real men don't use 1-1/4" receiver trailer hitches !!!!!
(Real women don't either, so there!)
So if you don't like a class 2 hitch, what must you think of a class 1?
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Old 10-30-2013, 08:26 PM   #51
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Originally Posted by David Tilston View Post
So if you don't like a class 2 hitch, what must you think of a class 1?
You can get Class II hitches with a 2" receiver.
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Old 10-31-2013, 07:55 AM   #52
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Originally Posted by Carol H View Post
Or you could be footing the bill for a warranty repair after the service manager looks down and sees a Class II or higher hitch on a car that based on its tow cap shouldnt need anything more than a Class I hitch
Completely illegal under the magnusson moss act.
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Old 10-31-2013, 08:36 AM   #53
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Guilty by Association?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jared J View Post
Completely illegal under the magnusson moss act.

I agree that, on it's face, that would be illegal. You could have installed it for a bicycle carrier, scooter carrier etc. or you tow a small utility trailer and like the bigger hitch mount (Size does matter ya know)

BUT... if the Service Manager then sees a brake controller, a charging line feed and a 7 pin connector, it is a tip off to possible "Operation beyond design specifications" and you just opened a whole bag of worms if your warranty claim involves driveline or suspension related issues.

I think that the technical term is something like: "Smoking Gun"
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Old 10-31-2013, 09:13 AM   #54
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Originally Posted by Jared J View Post
Completely illegal under the magnusson moss act.
Nope its not!

Key points to the Magnuson Moss Act::

* The federal minimum standards for full warranties are waived if the warrantor can show that the problem associated with a warranted consumer product was caused by damage while in the possession of the consumer, or by unreasonable use, including a failure to provide reasonable and necessary maintenance.

* A "limited warranty" is one that does not meet the federal minimums. Such warranties must be "conspicuously designated" as limited warranties.

Have a hunch Jared you will find a clause written in every vehicle's manual and warranty book in regards to misuse of a vehicle's intended use as well as "Limited" warranty clause. A manufacture could make a real good case for "unreasonable use" if you were to tow a trailer over the vehicle's towing specifications as stated in the manual.

As a side note the OP is Canadian so the above Act does not cover them regardless. We do have similar consumer protection acts in Canada but again if its a limited warranty or the work required is the result of misuse of the vehicle or lack of maintenance the manufacture has the right to decline to cover it under warranty.
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Old 10-31-2013, 09:58 AM   #55
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From my perspective, the reality is that automobile dealers get paid for repairs that are generally not overseen by manufacturers. They make money doing them. The dealers job is to sell and repair, to maintain and grow the customer base and not to report vehicle use.

In our case we have told our dealer what and where we tow. As well we submitted a story to Honda USA of our tow trip thru Labrador.
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Old 10-31-2013, 10:07 AM   #56
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Originally Posted by honda03842 View Post
From my perspective, the reality is that automobile dealers get paid for repairs that are generally not overseen by manufacturers. They make money doing them. The dealers job is to sell and repair, to maintain and grow the customer base and not to report vehicle use.
.
I think Norm that you need to spend a little time on car forums as there are plenty of folks who have had their warranty claims for engine repairs for example denied simply for not being able to prove the vehicle was serviced per the schedule laid out in their warrenty books - ie they did the oil changes etc themselves & did not keep the receipts for what they bought in order to do the change or to show when the oil or filter changes took place.
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