What kind of tires? - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 05-22-2003, 11:38 PM   #15
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Hi Charles, My son and his friends all use 16 ft. aluminum boats and about 3 years ago they switched to car tires because of grief with ST tires and since then, no more problems. They usually go to a lake that requires a run of about 40-50 miles on crushed granite and it`s deadly on tires. But like you said ...use what you wish...And I am quite happy with car tires on my little egg and see no need to change as I don`t need tires yet...and let me assure you that price is not a question..... Happy trailering....Benny
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Old 05-23-2003, 06:37 AM   #16
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Hi Dan!

Carlisle had a bad run of tires a couple of years ago. Lots of folks had problems.

For whatever reason ... maybe blind luck, I've never had a blow-out with Carlisles ... and am using them to this day.

I think the important thing to remember, is that no matter what brand of tire or how bad a blow out, no one has reported losing control of their tow-vehicle/trailer combo following a blow-out. All have been able to safely stop.

I take comfort in that "real world" experience that shows that our little fiberglass wonders continue to track well and stay under control, even with the most severe blow out.
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Old 05-23-2003, 06:42 AM   #17
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Mary's correct in that Goodyear also had a bad run of RV tires a while back. I've even heard of folks having problems with Michelins.

Now, I'm not pointing fingers, and I'm not saying that tire companies don't occasionally produce a batch of bad tires ... but I also think that there are so many other variables that enter into RV tire problems.

Overloading, under-inflation, scrubbing, bouncing over curbs (I can't tell you how many curbs I've hit ... I'd be embarassed).

I also rarely run for long distances in extremely hot weather. When it gets hot, I head for the mountains or Canada.

And I'll be the first to admit that I'm not as diligent at checking the tire pressure as I probably should be ... as a result, I usually find I'm running a bit under-inflated.

In fact, a couple of trailers ago, I actually was running under-inflated, even when I filled the tires, because I mistakening thought the correct PSI was about 5 pounds less than it actually should be.
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Old 05-23-2003, 05:18 PM   #18
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A few years back, I had need to replace a set of ST tires on the road and they only had P radials in my size -- What a difference! With the P's on my Jayco 16', the whole rig waddled and swayed down the road -- I could even feel the difference just stepping into the trailer. I put ST's on the trailer and moved the P's to the truck and all was well again.

The bottom line is that the ST's are built with stiffer sidewalls, so they don't flex from side to side as much as P's, but the tradeoff is that by not roll-flexing as much, they don't get the better mileage that P's do on an automobile. LT's also have much stiffer sidewalls and the folks pulling the big rigs can feel the sway difference when they put LTs on their trucks.

Pete and Rats
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Old 05-25-2003, 02:25 PM   #19
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tires

Hi every one ..
i think i was the one that starded that post on the other site. i got a lot of answers back.it was very interesting.i was going to buy them that week.but as of yet i haven't lol.now i just got done of reading all of these post n learn something new about tires. i have price the trailer tires n was surprise to find out that fore a pair of radio trailer
put on the rims n balances is only $61.00 that's fore 13"185 we are just gettin at our 13' 74 boler now.so i m in no hurry for the tires.ho ya learning something new.. to make sure that they are st's what does st stand fore. n why st's what's the different...thank you
golden bunny
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Old 05-25-2003, 03:41 PM   #20
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WHOOP! WHOOP! GEEK ALERT!

The following chart compares load carrying capacity for the same size tire. It compares a P-metric, ST-metric and a P-metric tire de-rated for use on a trailer. Those of us with ST tires usually have a 'C' load range tire, which has a maximum pressure of 50 psi.

The Tire & Rim Assn. states that a P-metric tire should be de-rated, that is that the load it carries at any given pressure should be reduced 10% when used on a truck application. That's the line below the solid line on the graph. It also states that a P-metric tire shouldn't normally be used at greater than 88% of it's maximum load. That would be a line 2% below the lower dotted line.

What does this mean? The most a normal P-metric tire that has been properly de-rated can carry (at 35 psi) is about 1300 pounds. At 35 pounds, the ST tire can carry over 1400 pounds. However, the 'C' load range ST tire can carry up to 1750 pounds at it's maximum pressure of 50 psi.

What else does this mean? The formulas used to calculate the carcass strength of a tire are basically those used for steam boilers. If you think about it for a moment, you'll realize that the more pressure a vessel (tire or boiler) has to hold in, the stronger the carcass has to be. A ST tire has a stronger carcass than the same size P tire.

All this assumes a properly built and maintained tire. Also note that tires don't heal. Treat them badly once, and that's life that's gone forever.

I don't give advice. I can only tell you what works for me. I'm a tire engineer for an auto company and I can't and don't speak for them. Everyone probably knows someone who's abused tires and gotten away with it, and someone else who did everything right and still had a problem.

I'm just offering this up as a little information about P-metric and ST-metric tires.

<img src=http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/uploads/3ed123daa9c28tires.JPG/>

Please DON'T pet the geek. Although normally harmless, he is exciteable. Resume your normal activites.
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Old 05-25-2003, 05:33 PM   #21
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tire story

While on a trip to Alaska, I blew out a tire somewhere in the Yukon territory. Arriving in Anchorage, I went looking for a replacement and found a good used tire at a garage sale for $5. I was unemployed, very little money. Mounted it myself with make shift tire irons, aired it up, and away we went.

So while STs are the 'proper' tire design for a trailer, sometimes whatever ya got is OK, so long as it works?! :)
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Old 05-27-2003, 12:26 PM   #22
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I believe ST stands for Special Trailer, P stands for Passenger and LT stands for Light Truck. ST and LT have stiffer sidewalls than P (which you can see if you look at some tire profiles under load at a boat ramp or campground).

Pete and Rats
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Old 05-27-2003, 06:39 PM   #23
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Tires Etc.

:red
I was just thinking (that could be dangerous) but, what do you folks use for a jack in case of a flat or blow out in the middle of nowhere?
For obvious reasons, we carry towing insurance for instances like changing tires, running out of gas and other things but what if you are far away from a town. I surely do not want to sit on the side of the road for 3-4 hrs waiting for someone to help.
Weird question asking for a simple answer.:shg Thanks
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Old 05-27-2003, 08:14 PM   #24
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trailer jack

Use the tow vehicles jack.......make sure it'll work before ya leave home!

I can't imagine needing roadside service with a little egg trailer. But whatever makes ya comfortable. I figure if ya run out of gas or lock yurself out, well DUH, mabe it's time to stay home?!

But be aware, if you have car trouble, it'll take TWO wreckers to get your rig to a garage (and if you've got AAA coverage, you'll quite probably still pay, depending on the state and the respective 'RV plus policy').....or tell em what the circumstances are, and they'll hopefully have a wrecker that carries the tow vehicle piggyback while towing the Casita.
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Old 05-28-2003, 10:18 AM   #25
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Tires etc.

Pine Cone:
Don't plan on running out of gas, nor locking my keys in the car, but now a woman changing a tire out in the middle of nowhere, well that's another story!
I felt that we should use the tow vehicle jack but wanted to check for sure. Thanks for the info.
Have a good day!:wave Ruth
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Old 05-28-2003, 10:52 AM   #26
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AAA loves me!

Pineconedon: "I figure if ya run out of gas or lock yurself out, well DUH, mabe it's time to stay home?! "

Some years I have roadside service through AAA, others I don't. I have noticed a disturbing trend. I am not the kind of person who loses things or misplaces things much. I am usually keenly aware of what I am doing. In 10 years of driving I have locked myself out of the car 5 times.

Twice it happened two times in a week.

However, it ONLY happens when I have AAA. This leads me to believe that having AAA causes keys to stay in the car when the doors lock. Not once have I locked myself out of the car on the years when I don't have roadside service.

Also, ya just never know when your transmission is going to die on the New Jersey turnpike on a hot July day. Free towing is nice! The free maps are nice, too!

One of the funniest things I have ever seen was the look on my 16 year old not-yet-driving sister's face when I locked my keys in the car on the way to the lake. She knew mouthing off would earn her a trip back home, but she WANTED to say something nasty so bad I thought she'd pass out from the effort to supress it!
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Old 05-28-2003, 12:37 PM   #27
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tire changing

Ruth:

If you've just got all the necessary stuff and 'look' like you're trying to change the tire.......

JR:

I'll admit, I loose keys as much as anybody. Because of this I keep the key shop in business and 'squirrel away' duplicates everywhere.

About gas........at this age I need to stop more often than the car does. :)

But yeah, we belong to AAA. Keeps the wife happy.
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Old 05-28-2003, 12:48 PM   #28
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Most cars these days have the little scissor-type jacks. Almost all models of these will work under the axle of your camper. It may be awkward to swing the handle, but should be do-able. I use mine that way.

For you women (or less-than-burly men, for that matter), I'd highly recommend getting a 12V impact wrench (as discussed in the 12V Appliances thread). With this, anybody can easily remove even way-overtightened lug bolts/nuts. Yes, women can change tires, too! Some women won't need the impact wrench, but I'll wager that once they try one, they'll want one!

By the way, in another of my former lives, I was a locksmith. I tried to call myself a "residential locksmith", but more people lock themselves out of cars than out of homes. Anyway, anytime you buy a car, your first stop on the way home should be someplace where you can get duplicate keys made. Never leave on a road trip without spare keys. If you travel with someone, they should carry a set. If you travel alone, hide them on the vehicle. If you have a vehicle that uses two keys, hide the door key outside the vehicle, and hide the ignition key inside the vehicle. If you are towing a trailer (as most on this forum are), hide the car keys back on the camper. Thieves are less likely to find them there. And don't miss the possibility of getting mugged -- if you are carrying a spare set on your person, or if your spouse has the spare key, and you get mugged, you will be left without keys. You still want an additional set hidden with the vehicle. Just don't make it too obvious - stay away from gas filler doors and just under the corner of the bumper. You want it to be someplace you can't see without laying flat on your back on the ground. If you find you have to use the key, re-hide it elsewhere, in case someone saw you getting it. There -- now I've given my two cents worth. One final note - don't get paranoid! :o
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