Will a CRV work for towing? - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 06-04-2010, 05:14 PM   #15
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I have to agree that the frontal surface of the trailer is big time to take into consideration. Before I had a 1996 Jeep Cherokee with the inline 6 cylinders 4.0L HI, then traded it for a Suzuki Grand Vitara V6 2.7L rated for 3000lbs and before I got my actual Boler, I had a pop-up trailer weighting 2200lbs with everything in there.

Where I live, around the St-Laurence, winds are often pretty heavy, I also did a couple of trips from Montreal area to Ocean City NJ, going through the Adirondacs and Cat Skills, this without any problem with both vehicules (Jeep and Suzuki) towing the pop-up.

I would even say that the Suzuki was handling it better than the Cherokee (horse power and torque are about the same).

When I got my first Boler, at that time I had a Dodge Neon, this was not enough, so it was the reason why we got the Cherokee at that time. I could hardly feel the Boler behind the Cherokee, big winds or not, and could drive at any speed I wanted (even up to 100 mph without problem, sorry did it to pass trucks in the Adirondacs).

Now with my new Boler and that Suzuki Grand Vitara, I can see that the GV is just enough for it. My Boler with all my stuff in it is around 1300lbs, less than half of what it is rated for. But when I'm facing winds I'm struggling going over 50/55mph, although going up hills is no big deal however.

So all of this bla-bla to say that wind force has a lot to do with your choice more than the weight of the trailer. I was shock that I had more trouble pulling my Boler than my pop-up even if it's almost half weight.

Being an engineer I tried to do the equation, and all I can think is that weight has more effect on horse power (on the highway when launched, from start it is obvious that torque is the main factor) and wind has more to do with torque (my Suzuki having a little bit more horse power but a little less torque).

Both factors being in consideration, I would say that don't go for a vehicule that has less than 180HP and less than 180lbs/ft2, at least for the application I'm using it for...

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Old 06-04-2010, 06:14 PM   #16
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Both factors being in consideration, I would say that don't go for a vehicule that has less than 180HP and less than 180lbs/ft2, at least for the application I'm using it for...
I think this is too much of a blanket statement. Now, I do agree with Floyd and you that windage is a consideration in towing. But I don't agree that someone should need to buy a vehicle with 180 hp or over to tow a 13-foot Boler (or equivalent). My 4-cylinder car has 110hp and I do just fine. No, I can't zoom up every hill at 60 mph; nor can I pass every car in every situation. But I don't feel that I have any crippling problems towing long distances.

Note that my car is rated to tow 3300# with trailer brakes; 2000# without them, so I am not going over my rated tow limit (indeed, I am way under it). I don't think I would try to tow up to the limit, in fact. But one reason I have this trailer, is that I don't *want* to have to buy a larger vehicle. A small, light trailer allows me to tow with my daily driver, and since towing is probably 5% or less of all my driving, I enjoy my normal 27+mpg, and pleasant drivability/parkability, and live with the lower - but still decent - mileage when I am towing.

I am considering trailer brakes because I think they will make for a safer experience and put less pressure on my car's brakes, but that isn't really related to horsepower.

Back to the windage factor: I would never raise a car's rated towing capacity for a low-windage trailer; but I would probably lower it for a high-windage trailer.

Raya
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Old 06-04-2010, 09:00 PM   #17
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I would like to agree with you Raya, but may be I'm wrong, that is why I stated "at least for the application I'm using it for", and for this specific case I should have specified torque, it is not unusual to have 40 mph front winds here, don't even think to use overdrive in that case... maximum is 1:1 ratio and rev the engin to its optimal torque power.

On my Neon, I think it was 136HP and 117 lbs/ft2 torque (mind you they were lemons), I burned 2 transmissions pulling my first Boler (they were replaced under warranty), and sold it 1600 miles before the end of warranty.

I will even install an auxilliary transmission radiator this week, something that I wasn't even thinking about with the pop-up trailer. This may due also to the fact that my Boler is now about 13 inches above the ground ?
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Old 06-06-2010, 04:56 PM   #18
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While I'm not endorsing if it is right or wrong, here are some observations. I just came back from Bend and next to use was a Honda element pulling a T&B up Mt hood without any problem. Looking on the web shows the TAB to be 1600# dry. I just talked to a next-door neighbor that used her Honda element to drive a Uhaul travel trailer from Massachusetts to Hillsboro Oregon over the last two weeks. She said that she didn't feel it while towing. I'm planning to tow with an older Hyundai Tucson and it states it will due 2000# as it's set up, but I'm probably adding a couple hundred pounds in improvements to my Scamp! I would get as much information as possible and make the choice.
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Old 06-07-2010, 11:59 AM   #19
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Wow...A lot of great information. The We in my original note was my wife and I - we are retired and we intend to travel throughout USA and Canada. The responses seem to confirm that the 2003 CRV isn't heavy enough to deal with the Scamp 13'. Now I need to come up with a heavier vehicle, sigh. Thanks for all those responding to my request.
Tim
If you want to stay with a smaller tow a Subaru Outback is worth looking and is more than capable of towing a 13'.
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Old 06-08-2010, 12:26 AM   #20
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Make sure you have an in cab trailer brake controler and the trailer is well balanced. Learn how to use it. Get to a scale to ballance.

Makes sure both Tow and traliler is level to the ground. You may have to change ball height on Tow or get air shocks. Get an anti-sway bar. Learn how to use it. When the tail starts moving the dog to much is when you get into problems. Slow down when in strong cross winds and bigs trucks passing.
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Old 06-08-2010, 02:56 AM   #21
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Get an anti-sway bar. Learn how to use it.
James,

Since the OP would be towing a 13-footer and no larger (1500# tow capacity), would you still recommend an anti-sway bar? I don't hear about those on 13-footers, typically.

Raya
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Old 06-08-2010, 06:12 AM   #22
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Yes, the main problem is a gust of wind when a truck passes you or a strong gust hits the side of the trailer. This will pull the whole trailer and thus pull the rear end with it. I suggest that another topic be posted to get real life experiences.

I would think that it should not be tight but some towing is nessary to find the sweet spot.
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Old 06-08-2010, 08:15 AM   #23
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I didn't have a sway bar on my Element-Scamp 13' combo and never had a swaying problem. Winds, trucks, etc. never moved the rig very much. Perhaps I never hit the "perfect storm" of wind and conditions to make it sway, but it just never was a concern in 25,000 miles. Perhaps the shape and size of the Scamp made it less vulnerable.

I do use a sway bar on my Odyssey-Casita 17' combo but haven't had any swaying even hint at starting regardless of how tight the sway bar was set, but plan to continue to use it as there's a lot more weight to control with the Casita.
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Old 06-08-2010, 10:52 AM   #24
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I notice the same thing, Patrick. I've towed larger trailers (larger boats), and driven trucks with campers, and larger vehicles that were slab-sided - over long distances. It was commonplace to grip the wheel and brace for the "gust" when a truck would overtake (4-lane) or pass me in the oncoming lane (2-lane), or when it was windy.

On the other hand, with the Boler 13, there is remarkably little - to no - "gust" from trucks or from strong wind; it's really a pleasure to tow.

I would recommend trying the combo out before automatically getting an anti-sway bar.

Raya

PS: James, what tow vehicle/camper combination were you towing that you felt required an anti-sway bar. Was it a Boler/clone 13?
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Old 06-08-2010, 10:23 PM   #25
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Good responses. I do not have one yet but had towed many things including and older 16' stick TT with a full size pickup and have had some problems with wind. The Orginal poster has a small Tow and I was suggesting solutions for possible problems. The bigger and longer tows will handle differently than smaller tows. There has been several post from people with 16'ers that have added Anti-sway bars. These are not expensive.

Having tools to small to do things creates more problems than having big tools for the same job.

Hopeing to get a 17' Egg next spring.
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Old 06-08-2010, 10:27 PM   #26
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Thanks for the additional info, James. I agree that with the larger trailers - say 16' or 17' - it's not uncommon to add the anti-sway setup.

Happy hunting when the time comes

Raya
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Old 06-08-2010, 10:51 PM   #27
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James,

Since the OP would be towing a 13-footer and no larger (1500# tow capacity), would you still recommend an anti-sway bar? I don't hear about those on 13-footers, typically.

Raya
I tow my 13 Scamp using a friction anti-sway bar. I wouldn't argue that it's necessary since the Scamp is a remarkably stable RV trailer. I would however describe it as an easily affordable luxury,like better tires, or ceramic brakes.
The friction anti-sway bar adds a degree of comfort and enhances already acceptable handling.
just call it an anti-fatigue device, like sound proofing or lumbar support.
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Old 06-09-2010, 10:13 AM   #28
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Thanks, Floyd, and that sounds totally reasonable. I think the previous "You must have an anti-sway bar" sentiment was a bit too strong, but I can certainly see your point in that it could be a nice addition.

Raya
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