Will a CRV work for towing?

[Raya]

Get an anti-sway bar. Learn how to use it.

James,

Since the OP would be towing a 13-footer and no larger (1500# tow capacity), would you still recommend an anti-sway bar? I don't hear about those on 13-footers, typically.

Raya

[James V]

Yes, the main problem is a gust of wind when a truck passes you or a strong gust hits the side of the trailer. This will pull the whole trailer and thus pull the rear end with it. I suggest that another topic be posted to get real life experiences.

I would think that it should not be tight but some towing is nessary to find the sweet spot.

[Patrick M.]

I didn't have a sway bar on my Element-Scamp 13' combo and never had a swaying problem. Winds, trucks, etc. never moved the rig very much. Perhaps I never hit the "perfect storm" of wind and conditions to make it sway, but it just never was a concern in 25,000 miles. Perhaps the shape and size of the Scamp made it less vulnerable.

I do use a sway bar on my Odyssey-Casita 17' combo but haven't had any swaying even hint at starting regardless of how tight the sway bar was set, but plan to continue to use it as there's a lot more weight to control with the Casita.

[Raya]

I notice the same thing, Patrick. I've towed larger trailers (larger boats), and driven trucks with campers, and larger vehicles that were slab-sided - over long distances. It was commonplace to grip the wheel and brace for the "gust" when a truck would overtake (4-lane) or pass me in the oncoming lane (2-lane), or when it was windy.

On the other hand, with the Boler 13, there is remarkably little - to no - "gust" from trucks or from strong wind; it's really a pleasure to tow.

I would recommend trying the combo out before automatically getting an anti-sway bar.

Raya

PS: James, what tow vehicle/camper combination were you towing that you felt required an anti-sway bar. Was it a Boler/clone 13?

[James V]

Good responses. I do not have one yet but had towed many things including and older 16' stick TT with a full size pickup and have had some problems with wind. The Orginal poster has a small Tow and I was suggesting solutions for possible problems. The bigger and longer tows will handle differently than smaller tows. There has been several post from people with 16'ers that have added Anti-sway bars. These are not expensive.

Having tools to small to do things creates more problems than having big tools for the same job.

Hopeing to get a 17' Egg next spring.

[Raya]

Thanks for the additional info, James. I agree that with the larger trailers - say 16' or 17' - it's not uncommon to add the anti-sway setup.

Happy hunting when the time comes

Raya

[floyd]

James,

Since the OP would be towing a 13-footer and no larger (1500# tow capacity), would you still recommend an anti-sway bar? I don't hear about those on 13-footers, typically.

Raya

I tow my 13 Scamp using a friction anti-sway bar. I wouldn't argue that it's necessary since the Scamp is a remarkably stable RV trailer. I would however describe it as an easily affordable luxury,like better tires, or ceramic brakes.
The friction anti-sway bar adds a degree of comfort and enhances already acceptable handling.
just call it an anti-fatigue device, like sound proofing or lumbar support.

[Raya]

Thanks, Floyd, and that sounds totally reasonable. I think the previous "You must have an anti-sway bar" sentiment was a bit too strong, but I can certainly see your point in that it could be a nice addition.

Raya

[Daniel V.]

Hmmm.. sway bars... My two cents:

I've never used a sway bar, and ironically, I would only use one if I was 100% convinced that my trailer does NOT have any sway problems, ever. I would not use one to "cover up" a sway problem, even a mild one. If my trailer wants to sway for any reason during a trip, I need to know about it. These devices can hide chronic problems which will crop up at the worst time, such as during rainy weather when you're supposed to loosen them up, or if they're not adjusted properly. Don't depend on these things, and learn to balance your trailer properly. Then, when you're an expert at it and everything's perfect, maybe get a sway bar for those rare road events. Although by then, you'll probably know how to react (such as applying trailer brakes at the right moment) and still end up not getting one.

[Roger C H]

I don't have a sway bar and never felt the need for one. I do have trailer brakes which are required by Subaru for towing over 1000#.

Have never had a problem of trailer sway when passing a semi on a two lane road nor with a cross wind. I have crossed the Columbia river whilst a strong wind was blowing down the river across the bridge. What I haven't experienced yet is a sudden strong cross wind, the kind that will sway the car alone, but I am confident I won't have a problem when I do.

The first feeling I get when being overtaken by a semi is like a strong headwind. Then once the truck is alongside, it feels normal again. My Trill is VERY stable and tows like it is part of the car.

All these additions, if not required, just add weight and that is our biggest enemy.

[GordM]

I noticed the weight ratings listed here

http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/index.ph...mp;#entry338694

And it shows the 72 13' Boler to be 1300 lbs. Mine lists at about 1250 GVW. Now correct me if I'm wrong, isn't GVW, gross weight which means what the trailer should weigh maximum including cargo? I thought I read somewhere that my 72 Boler is only 900 lbs dry? And therefore I could carry about 350-400 lbs of cargo?

On that note though, I tow my little Boler with a Toyota Matrix which also has a towing capacity of 1500 lbs. I think that even if the dry weight is 1300 lbs, I'd find it difficult to add 200 lbs of groceries. Maybe dare I say "beer"?

Anyway, my Matrix tows it like a dream. In fact, I don't even feel it as a burden. I live in Manitoba so I generally don't climb a lot of mountains, so...

[Raya]

Time has shown that most of the factory published weights were either very very optimistic or just plain wrong. Some have postulated that there was some tax or financial incentive for builders to keep them under 1000#. I don't know if that is true, but I do know that that was usually stated to be without a refrigerator, battery, propane, any equipment, etc.

Most real-life Bolers, etc. weigh in at around 1300# or more (sometimes quite a bit more). The only way to know for sure is to weigh your rig.

On the axle rating: I wouldn't doubt that some original axles are over their ratings, but on the other hand, the axle only supports un-sprung weight, so you would not include the weight of the axle/wheels/tires themselves, nor the tongue weight. I would think that would save around 250# or so, and so a 1250# rated axle could support a trailer weighing around 1500# (not recommending cutting that close; just saying because of the un-sprung weight factor).

I don't have all the abbreviations to hand right now, but GVW would probably be supposed to stand for total weight. In the case of the Boler, they seem to use the axle's weight rating for that on the sticker.

No matter what the rating is though, I would weigh the unit if there is any doubt, or if you are close to your vehicle's tow rating.

[GordM]

Agreed. I know for sure my tongue weight can't be too much, because its super easy to lift by myself, and I'm no he-man. But I also don't have a fridge, just ice box, only a 16 lb propane tank. No battery etc. It "feels" like I need more weight on the hitch when I drive it unloaded. I think when I store most of my stuff under the bench, it seems to be smoother and handles better than empty. Maybe its my imagination. But that's usually where I store the "refreshments"