13' Boler 1970 Rehab what to start with?

[Kzooky]

I am a new 13' Boler owner. I have taken on the task to refurbish this old goat. It is in Ok shape but i need some guidance.
I replaced the original tires to roll it 400 miles home. Tire shop could barely remove the tires without a super big jacked up angle. Is that standard?
I have buckets of questions
I yanked out the rotten sagging "Elephant Skin" but it is riveted behind the support closet, rear upper cabinet and upper kitchen cabinets. I'm glad I pulled it because there are rivet holes everywhere allowing in water intrusion. The ensolite was badly caulked and painted and crumbling dead paint and sagging everywhere. Plus the smell was really bad. The glue is all over the inside. Must it be completely gone for the new interior skin to stick? I am unsure of removing these big rivets for the supporting pieces. If I do take them out, can I put them back somehow without rivets through the exterior skin?

I have exterior fiberglass issues

#1 PO had an a/c unit cut out of the back under the table. I bought it with a road sign screwed to the outside back. The hole is 13"x20 1/2". Its right over the bumper to the edge of the floor. I would like to patch it myself and I cannot decide if I should go for the Glory and take the frame off of the body. It's a daunting task as I hope to do as much as possible myself.

#2 PO cracked the fiberglass edge in two places along the back edge behind the bumper. Yet another reason to pop off the frame from the body to access the repair spot.

Oh yea there's also a hole where the furnace must have been. I suppose that should be covered.

I'm still in the plan stage and would like to add some features that may need ports. I fancy an on-demand water heater with some kind of hook up for an outside shower wand and an a/c heater top unit robbed from a truck cab-over camper.
This may require roof supports for the a/c.

Is it possible to make the roof strong enough to carry a kayak?

I'm open to 'where to start' suggestions.

[Dan Meyer]

Where to start? It seems you've done a pretty good job so far.

1) Make it safe on the road. Tires, brakes, frame, coupler and lighting all functioning as designed.

2) Seal up the holes to keep critters out. Use duct tape or whatever to just get things sealed up.

3) Make it so you can use the trailer to go camping while continuing the renovation. To me this would mean good cushions, interior lights work and minimal plumbing (kitchen sink) works.

4) Fix up the holes in the shell permanently. Paint the area after repair, but don't get too fussy.

5) Fix up the inside to be just how you want it.

6) Make the outside shiny, just like you want it.

It seems to me that steps 1-3 are the most important. If you can't use the trailer, you might loose interest in the restoration.

--Dan Meyer

[Gerry Kiernan]

I agree. First steps are to make sure the trailer is roadworthy. Tires, brakes[if applicable] wheels sound, frame clean and rust free. Shell fasteners must be secure, and all lights must be working.

As suggested, I agree with the idea of fixing it up to be useable, and take it camping. If you tear it all apart, and the project drags out, you may lose interest.

[bullfrogeh]

Hi Kevin;
I strongly agree with Dan's #1, #2, and #3. posted firstly. Not only the 'critters'; but seal 'er up to git the rain, wind, an (up here!) the 'white stuff'' out of 'er.
And git out fer some trial runs 'afor you plan too much other renos. 'Campin' is 'campin' - an you gotta larn as you go ! We bin 'campin' since the mid 1960's - both 'sperience' (an this FGRV site !) will keep you well motivated.

[Kzooky]

Thank you for the guidance. The PO had added working Led trailer lights but punched through the shell in front for wire attachment to the truck in front. I put new tires on the old rims to drive her home but the bearings need lube and inspection yet. I put her in the driveway and jacked her up. I Sanded scraped and Osphoed the trailer frame. I intend to prime and paint with Marine paint.
The underfloor was fiberglassed and sealed previously. There is one spot that is compromised but a bit of resin and mesh, should make it good.
But alas my shell and interior are next with serious renovation due.

[Gerry]

I agree with all above, road safe is most important and even if you've got to camp in it in your own yard...do it... no sense doing all the work and not enjoying it now.
As with many of these Bolers, ours included wet through "Where ever" is an issure and in the past 25 years we've owned ours this is the first year where we got it all water tight. Final leak was in the window above stove, dripping water onto the bottom cabinet running back and getting on the cushions.
So to find a leak wetting the back area I had to search almost to the front to find it.
Frustraiting to say the least

[Mikmay]

Now that you have removed the ensolight and have exterior issues were you will be most likely repainting it is the opportunity to remove the rivets and glass all your cabinets to the walls.lots of work but well worth it as you will no longer have to contend with leaking rivets .

[Kzooky]

My Boler moves forward slowly, but forward. I have completed the trailer frame painting. She's good for a while before we get rust again.
I am at a pondering point. I have removed the ensolite but I'm not sure what to do next. The cabinets and closet are secure with the original rivets and acorn nuts. I am hesitant to remove them. The elephant skin is between the sandwich of cabinet to walls ect. riveted in. I would prefer to put insulation throughout the whole structure then reattach the cabinets but that would wipe out the option of fiberglassing the cabinets and such into the structure. I was considering reattaching them with stainless screws and nuts with silicone. That way they can help secure the insulation and liner skin.
We can get lots of rain, am I asking for leaking issues? I am open to suggestions??

[k corbin]

Originally Posted by Kzooky

My Boler moves forward slowly, but forward. I have completed the trailer frame painting. She's good for a while before we get rust again.
I am at a pondering point. I have removed the ensolite but I'm not sure what to do next. The cabinets and closet are secure with the original rivets and acorn nuts. I am hesitant to remove them. The elephant skin is between the sandwich of cabinet to walls ect. riveted in. I would prefer to put insulation throughout the whole structure then reattach the cabinets but that would wipe out the option of fiberglassing the cabinets and such into the structure. I was considering reattaching them with stainless screws and nuts with silicone. That way they can help secure the insulation and liner skin.
We can get lots of rain, am I asking for leaking issues? I am open to suggestions??

You will have too much flexing movement if you put the cabinets over the insulation. Then the screws can move slightly in and out as well as sideways and the sharp edges of the threads on the screws will absolutely cause wear against the edges of the holes in the fiberglass and will soon enlarge those holes and create all kinds of leaks and possibly cracking in the fiberglass at the screw locations as well. Bad idea, don't do that!!

[Kzooky]

Ok I tried to upload photos but I'm not sure where they went. Lol
I have now taken out the upper cabinets, temporarily. I have removed Every rivet. I have patched every hole on the entire outside. I patched the giant hole in the back where a previous owner had cut in an a/c below the dinette table. I patched the vent hole from the old furnace, under the sink. I patched a rotten spot under the drivers side wheel well and the doorway floor, that was rotten. I fabricated upper support arched beams and fiberglassed them into the ceiling. It only took a fraction of the headspace. I took out the vent above and patched the hole. I figured if I find the vent or skylight the I like and can afford I will cut it out to fit.
I used 1/4 inch plywood and layered in 2 3" pieces in around the door frame and rehung the door. My thinking was this is where many Bolers sag and with the reinforcements around the frame and an extra 1/2" frame it won't ever sag there.
Today I am adding side support under the kitchen lower cabinet. I hope to install a water filter, when I set up the water, but I don't want to go through the exterior. I'm fiberglassing in the lower cabinet to the wall. I am reinforcing the upper cabinets with cut to fit FRP, white thin walled plastic from Home Depot. I think this will give them a bit more rigidity without adding much weight. I will fiberglass these to the walls.I will use the same material for the backsplash of the kitchenette. When I am finished I hope to have no more rivets.
I took out the Jaloscies (-for spelling) windows. There are 100 holes through the frames and sidewalls. I am temped to fill all of the holes and start over. How many holes does the window really need to keep it in place? The butyl tape holds out the water right?
I am adding a width support along the back wall to further support the table in the bed position. I have a crazy table design that includes wings to fill the front wedgie section. Flip the wings to the back and convert it to table.
I have yet to decide what to skin the inside with. I know I want to insulate the walls but with what? I have the silver bubble wrap but I'm concerned with sticking something else to it. I am not to that point yet but that is a quandary.
It is moving forward and I'm having fun and learning as I go.