1974 TRILLIUM aka "LGG" - Fiberglass RV
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Old 05-16-2012, 11:03 AM   #1
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Name: dave
Trailer: 1974 Trillium 1300
Ontario
Posts: 31
Wink 1974 TRILLIUM aka "LGG"

Hello,


I have been lurking/reading/learning for awhile now on this site and feel ready to step up and introduce myself.


But first I must say that this site is perhaps the most informative, friendly, interesting and complete site I have surfed! Thank you to all involved!


Hi, I'm Dave!



I have just purchased a 1974 Trillium LGG (Little Green Grape) 13' . My goal was to simply get out of my tent and off the ground and be dry. You see, I am an experienced canoe tripper/kayaker and will still continue that, but now I can travel around, meet folks, see some new vistas and canoe and yak as well.


My LGG does not have a stove (I'll use tripping gear), has an ice box, has a heater that I might remove (I have a down bag) and a water tank that I probably won't use either.


I hope to replace lights with LEDs inside and use a deep cycle battery (not sure I even need that since I will use so little power), eventhough the discussions on solar are so inticing. I plan to camp without hookups. Too expensive for my wallet and I want simple! "Boondocking" (new term to me) sounds perfect! Lonely but cheap and quiet!

So far I have removed the belly band and started to grind/cut out the rivets and rusty steel backer plates. Going to grind the area flat or recessed in prep for glassing or bondo/glass the band this week. Probably leaving the band naked and find a nice reflective tape that goes with the Sage green of the original colour. Any ideas? Re-attaching the band seems problematic at this point. Not sure how to attach it and is it really worth it? If I leave it off.......maybe someone in Ontario might need it? Hmmmmm........historic value or function,,,,,that is the question!

Took out the rear window and must re-do all the backing wood. Can't see why they used such a wide piece of wood! I will use a narrower strip, perhaps 3/4 by 1" ply?. Then off to the local RV dealer to make him my best friend for parts to get the windows re-sealed etc.

Will it ever end? Actually the other reason I bought this was to have a project to keep me busy and learning! I think I got that accomplished!


The information on this site has been most encouraging and motivating. I expect I will post many questions but will search, relentlessly, past posts first. What a resource you all are!!



I hope this post is not too long. Maybe I had better read the rules next! Anyway, Hello and Thanks.
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Old 05-16-2012, 01:27 PM   #2
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Name: Dave W
Trailer: Trillium 4500 - 1976, 1978, 1979, 1300 - 1977, and a 1973
Alberta
Posts: 6,926
Registry
Personally, I think Trilliums look better without the belly band. Randy Bishop uses a self adhesive belly band instead of rivets. He has restored 6 Trilliums and is now working on another. He would also buy your furnace, if you plan to remove it. If he doesen't want it I do. So, please don't destroy it, if you remove it. While this thread is for Trillium 4500's, the information applies to 1300's as well.
http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...ter-49659.html
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Old 05-16-2012, 05:08 PM   #3
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Name: Fred
Trailer: 1978 Trillium 4500
Washington
Posts: 232
Registry
The wood backing pieces behind the windows also serve as attachement points for interior items (curtain rods, shelves, etc). That may be a reason for having them slightly larger.

I also removed my belly band, refinished with fiberglass and bondo. There are some good threads here if you need tips. Search with google site:fiberglassrv.com belly band.

I also closed up the old heater vent, and refridgerator vents with fiberglass.
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--Fred and Natalie
1978 Trillium 4500 "Bernerwagon"
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Old 05-16-2012, 06:30 PM   #4
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Trailer: 1988 16 ft Scamp Deluxe
Posts: 25,710
Welcome to FiberglassRV Dave I think you fit right in, you seem to be an enthusastic owner.

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Old 05-16-2012, 09:41 PM   #5
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Name: dave
Trailer: 1974 Trillium 1300
Ontario
Posts: 31
Hello Dave W, Thx for the reply.
I will read up on self adhesive belly bands. That might hide a beginner's fibreglass/bondo job. Thx for the heater removal link. It actually scared me away from trying it but who knows, maybe later down the 'road' I will attempt it, just for the storage space!


Hi Fred, thx for the reply. Wise point about the width of the wood. Makes enough sense for me. And timely. I rip the wood tomorrow! Does anyone know of an easy way to peel back the elephant skin/foam? That was tough using a sharp blade and trying to skim along the wood. It worked but took forever. One slight cut came thru so I will be looking for a fix idea on that as well. I felt like I was trying to fillet or skin a fish! Might just leave the other windows alone and replace only the screws and butyl band. If the screw holes are bad then I will plug them and re-drill.
I read your post about filling in the hole after removing the heater and fridge. Did that not necessitate a paint job? I want to avoid that if possible. Too expensive unless I do a tremclad job which I think may not be as good as the Zep floor finish everyone is talking about.


Hello Donna, So nice to be welcomed. I hope I fit in (even though I barely fit into my Trillium. I am 6'3.75" and bump the nice soft ceiling!! Boler was too short for me! I will sleep somewhat fetal too!)
And yes, I am enthusiastic about this adventure!
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Old 05-16-2012, 11:19 PM   #6
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Trailer: 13 ft Compact II
Posts: 524
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Welcome!

Welcome, Dave. You've found a great group here. Very helpful folks, lots of good advice, lots of helpful, inspiring photos of renovations.

Enjoy working on your project, and using it as well. How do you carry your kayak and canoe? Do you have a pick-up truck?

Best,
Fran
compact II, 1974
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Old 05-17-2012, 01:13 AM   #7
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Name: dave
Trailer: 1974 Trillium 1300
Ontario
Posts: 31
Hello Francene,

I carry my boats on the car, a Venza, 4 cylinder, 2009. Kayak is in a J holder on the Thule rack and the canoe is on the Thule rack snuggled beside the Yak so she is comfy! They have yet to travel with LGG since repairs are on going!

Dave
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Old 05-17-2012, 07:02 AM   #8
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Name: john
Trailer: scamp 13
Michigan
Posts: 1,318
now that you not sleeping on the ground with that rock under your left hip,,,,you may just give up that silliness and make sure your paddling brings you back to your little home away from home.
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Old 05-17-2012, 07:53 AM   #9
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Trailer: 1975 Trillium 13 ft (Fluffer-Nugget)
Posts: 363
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Welcome Dave from a fellow Trillium lover
I was thinking about your comment about your height.... "I am 6'3.75" and bump the nice soft ceiling!! Boler was too short for me! I will sleep somewhat fetal too!"
If you are not going to use the furnace you could make a bump out (sleeping platform) that sticks out infront of the heater, sink and maybe even the fridge get an extra piece of foam and sleep length wise, instead of the width of the trailer. It would probably be more comfortable if you could stretch out.....I know other people have done that mod with great success....Just a thought.
Enjoy your trailer Emily
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Old 05-17-2012, 08:21 AM   #10
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Name: Fred
Trailer: 1978 Trillium 4500
Washington
Posts: 232
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Dave,
Yes, exterior fiberglass repairs and mods need to be painted. I painted my whole trailer. Others have painted just the repairs.

As for removing the skin -- I used a dull putty knife and it took a long time

I don't have an answer on the ensolite repair. I too have some tears to repair. I have glued things back into place and the tears come back together with very little gap. I'm thinking painting over the tears (everything actually) might be my solution
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--Fred and Natalie
1978 Trillium 4500 "Bernerwagon"
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Old 05-18-2012, 11:19 AM   #11
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Name: Dave W
Trailer: Trillium 4500 - 1976, 1978, 1979, 1300 - 1977, and a 1973
Alberta
Posts: 6,926
Registry
For the tears in the elephant hide, if you use a vinyl based coating, I don't think you will ever see them.
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Old 05-18-2012, 04:09 PM   #12
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Name: Ron
Trailer: Trillium 13 ft (green grape)
Ontario
Posts: 442
For the vinyal coverd ensolite I found a good latex calk and repaint does OK. I am still on the trail of the "T" molding for the older Trilliums. seem to be getting closer. Tom Young in Cal. said he was looking into having it made and should be availible at RV dealersw soon. still waiting for the (good) news.

Ron
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Old 05-18-2012, 04:33 PM   #13
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Name: Fred
Trailer: 1978 Trillium 4500
Washington
Posts: 232
Registry
Maybe these guys?
T-MOLDINGS
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--Fred and Natalie
1978 Trillium 4500 "Bernerwagon"
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Old 05-19-2012, 03:22 PM   #14
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Name: Ron
Trailer: Trillium 13 ft (green grape)
Ontario
Posts: 442
Just heard from Tom @ Trillium
The T molding & ensolite are in the process of being made.
go to this link
trilliumrv.com
YIPPEEE !!
Ron
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Old 05-23-2012, 11:02 PM   #15
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Name: dave
Trailer: 1974 Trillium 1300
Ontario
Posts: 31
Thanks for the feedback and ideas from you all!

I think I will try to contact cement the cut ensolite skin. The belly band repair has been completed and I am very pleased with the combo of glass and bondo. Took several layers but I am a novice. I think it is paintable so it is not rough or wavy! I will probably paint the band a darker green and then figure out the choice of Green Reflector Band (or Gold) or chrome rubber belly band. Thoughts?

I will likely keep the original sage green colour of the exterior for now. Tempting to paint it but I would do well to wait a bit and maybe use this thing first! Will use the Zep I suspect to get that shine.

Cleaning the aluminum has been challenging. Am using 000 steel wool followed with Never Dull. Hope it works. Very pitted and dirty. Ideas?
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Old 05-24-2012, 07:12 AM   #16
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Name: Ron
Trailer: Trillium 13 ft (green grape)
Ontario
Posts: 442
Outback / Trillium traiers in Calgary carry the "T" molding. $15.95 for a 9 foot strip and according to them to do a complete trailer requires 7 strips.
Don't know as yet what Trillium USA are charging.

Ron
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