1976 trillium no lights - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 10-17-2018, 02:29 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by John in Michigan View Post
Francesca, sure I will start a thread about this, but first please tell me what problems you've been having with your internal LED lights.
Oh, nothing serious really unless one considers the fact that they only work about half the time "serious"
He did a simple switchout, nothing involved but swapping the new lights in exactly the same positions and using original wiring that was very efficiently keeping the old lights lit. Trouble started the first time I was out with them, sometimes they came on fine and sometimes not. And sometimes they came on for a while THEN winked out. Completely unpredictable, and defiant of most attempts to identify the problem. At some point hubs dug deep into the trailer and announced he'd found the problem which IIRC he claims was a connection made at the factory some place near the fridge. OoooooKAY! Or so we thought lol the problems still there though perhaps a little less frequent. During my most recent 3k mile excursion a new theory developed, that being that screwing down REAL HARD on the ground connection at the battery would solve the problem and guess what? Sometimes it actually worked. I myself believe that to be solely due to divine intervention brought on by my muttered threats of murder against my poor husband for the dastardly act of taking my good old incandescents out to begin with
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Old 10-17-2018, 03:07 PM   #16
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Francesca,

I checked and realized that I actually did create a thread to explain how I renovated the old Trillium converter. Even included a wiring diagram, etc. Its here:

Problem Name

Please read and post your questions against that thread if desired.

-John
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Old 10-17-2018, 03:17 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz View Post
I would want to investigate that 'transformer' DC power supply with a digital multimeter... see what DC voltage its outputting, see how stable that DC voltage is with different loads on it, also see how much AC voltage (aka ripple) is on the DC output, with and without DC loads. its quite likely a lot of LED lights will NOT like a lot of ripple on their power supply.
John in Santa Cruz, a few months ago I replaced the interior bulbs with LED bulbs in my new to me 40 year old Boler 17. Shortly after one of the new LED bulbs burnt out. Then I noticed 1 or 2 other new LED bulbs overheating (burning smell). So I switched back to the old bulbs, suspecting a problem with the vintage converter. When I get around to addressing that problem (currently fixing all of the leaks and replacing all of the towing lights), I will take your suggestion and check the DC voltage as well as the ripple voltage. Thanks for the suggestion!
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Old 10-18-2018, 07:12 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by John in Michigan View Post
Francesca,

I checked and realized that I actually did create a thread to explain how I renovated the old Trillium converter. Even included a wiring diagram, etc. Its here:

Problem Name

Please read and post your questions against that thread if desired.

-John
Thanks for the link, I took a look just now and it's just what the Dr. ordered. Hubs is away at the moment, when he gets home I'll show it to him and post any questions he might have for you there.
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Old 10-19-2018, 09:20 AM   #19
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Name: Jamie
Trailer: Trillium
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76 trillium no interior lights

Here is a picture of fuse and power converter. I tried wiring a 15 a fuse and holder to back of converter but got no lights back on. Please help
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Old 10-19-2018, 09:28 AM   #20
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76 trillium no lights

I can’t seem to upload a picture of power converter
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Old 10-19-2018, 10:51 AM   #21
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You never answered my question about the furnace working and what if anything that has to do with this. If as you seem to imply it uses 12v power and is working on shorepower then it seems to me the converter is doing its job.
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Old 10-19-2018, 11:04 AM   #22
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p.s. To upload a picture from your own stash, go to "advanced" and click on the paper clip icon in the top row of the tool bar there. A box will open up allowing you to choose from your own files.
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Old 10-19-2018, 11:41 AM   #23
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76 trillium

I have an electric furnace which is not wired to 12 v power. I tried install a 30 a 12 v fusebreaker with no luck. Help
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Old 10-19-2018, 11:47 AM   #24
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Do the lights work if you switch to battery power alone?
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Old 10-19-2018, 03:45 PM   #25
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Oh, nothing serious really unless one considers the fact that they only work about half the time "serious"
He did a simple switchout, nothing involved but swapping the new lights in exactly the same positions and using original wiring that was very efficiently keeping the old lights lit. Trouble started the first time I was out with them, sometimes they came on fine and sometimes not. And sometimes they came on for a while THEN winked out. Completely unpredictable, and defiant of most attempts to identify the problem. At some point hubs dug deep into the trailer and announced he'd found the problem which IIRC he claims was a connection made at the factory some place near the fridge. OoooooKAY! Or so we thought lol the problems still there though perhaps a little less frequent. During my most recent 3k mile excursion a new theory developed, that being that screwing down REAL HARD on the ground connection at the battery would solve the problem and guess what? Sometimes it actually worked. I myself believe that to be solely due to divine intervention brought on by my muttered threats of murder against my poor husband for the dastardly act of taking my good old incandescents out to begin with

Greetings Pilgrim. Delighted to have you back. Just a shot in the dark, any chance hubby bought cheap leds like on eBay etc. Leds require biasing, that is, circuits to work. The simplest is a current limiting resistor. Problem is if the voltage rises from the designed 12 volts to say 14 volts the resistor will cook giving off nasty smells and such. The higher priced devices can handle the larger voltage variations. I buy my leds from these guys.

http://www.superbrightleds.com/

What they sell ain't cheap but is top self . Raz
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Old 10-19-2018, 05:00 PM   #26
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Greetings Pilgrim. Delighted to have you back. Just a shot in the dark, any chance hubby bought cheap leds like on eBay etc. Leds require biasing, that is, circuits to work. The simplest is a current limiting resistor. Problem is if the voltage rises from the designed 12 volts to say 14 volts the resistor will cook giving off nasty smells and such. The higher priced devices can handle the larger voltage variations. I buy my leds from these guys.

http://www.superbrightleds.com/

What they sell ain't cheap but is top self . Raz
Hi Raz, lol @ "pilgrim".
He bought the lights for my birthday and after carefully researching themlike the engineer that he is. (His specialty since he retired from the real world seems to be solving problems that don't exist lol as he did in this case) I understood practically nothing of what you just told me, my takeaway from all this so far is that LED's are a lil too fussy for my taste. Lights is the only thing I use power for in the trailer and all I want from them is that they come on when I hit the switch. Which the old lights did for 40 years. Can they share a circuit with an incandescent btw? My porch light remains original and one of the times everything went out happened when I turned it on while an LED was lit too
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Old 10-19-2018, 05:16 PM   #27
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you can mix and match, they are all wired in parallel
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Old 10-19-2018, 07:11 PM   #28
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Hi Raz, lol @ "pilgrim".
He bought the lights for my birthday and after carefully researching themlike the engineer that he is. (His specialty since he retired from the real world seems to be solving problems that don't exist lol as he did in this case) I understood practically nothing of what you just told me, my takeaway from all this so far is that LED's are a lil too fussy for my taste. Lights is the only thing I use power for in the trailer and all I want from them is that they come on when I hit the switch. Which the old lights did for 40 years. Can they share a circuit with an incandescent btw? My porch light remains original and one of the times everything went out happened when I turned it on while an LED was lit too
Being one smart cookie I'm sure you realize leds are more efficient and thus extend battery life. If the issue occurs when not plugged in, I would suspect cheap leds. If it occurs when plugged in, then it's most likely the converter. While good power supplies were certainly available back in the 70's, they weren't installed in rv's. If all you use power for is lights, the incandescents will use about five times more power. Plan accordingly. Then again since hubby "caused" this dilemma perhaps he should upgrade the converter .
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