Boler fiberglass repair advice.. - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 11-14-2015, 11:47 PM   #15
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This is great advice. It will be challenging but not impossible. Thanks. Curiously this boler was painted 2yrs ago with marine paint. If I wanted to roll and tip, could I just go over the existing or do I have to sand everything off?
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Old 11-14-2015, 11:54 PM   #16
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I stand corrected (on accessing from the backside). But creating the mold from the outside will result in a nice flat/smooth surface finish on the patch when pulled from the mold. And ultimately, less work when the patch is fitted, glassed in place and final surface work prior to paint is done.


If you can match the paint, you should only need to do some minor sanding and surface prep, then paint the area blending into existing areas.
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Old 11-14-2015, 11:59 PM   #17
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Thanks. Planning to go with a silver marine. Still light sanding and 2 coats over the existing ?
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Old 11-15-2015, 12:30 AM   #18
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Should be fine. Use a primer on any areas of bare fiberglass. And possibly a skim coat of non-hydroscopic (marine grade non-water absorbing) body filler to smooth out the repaired areas.
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Old 11-15-2015, 08:40 AM   #19
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Still light sanding and 2 coats over the existing ?
Best bet is to find out what marine paint was used in the 1st place. Some may be finicky when being recoated with a different product and no priming.
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Old 11-15-2015, 10:53 AM   #20
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Cardboard & great stuff expandable foam is great for making molds for fiberglassing on top of. You can use them to make molds of the curves of the camper too, I did it and it works well. The key when using fiberglass with anything wood, styrofoam or similar products is to use wax paper so the fiber glass will release from you molds as a substitution for the gel coat used in professional molds. Gel coat serves as a release agent but also as the exterior finish of the finished product.
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Old 11-15-2015, 11:18 AM   #21
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Thanks these are all great products to be used. U tube is my visual friend and I'm trying to find a visual on the process because I'm not getting the steps involved in the process of recreating a curved mold with the piece missing ....
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Old 11-15-2015, 11:32 AM   #22
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Thanks these are all great products to be used. U tube is my visual friend and I'm trying to find a visual on the process because I'm not getting the steps involved in the process of recreating a curved mold with the piece missing ....
The foam will work well for this. The nice thing about making your mold with the great stuff expandable foam is that you can carve it with a knife to match the curve of the body to meet up to the broken edge. Just be sure to let it fully cure, my first mold like this I didn't let it cure long enough and the middle of the mold was still soft. Let the molds cure overnight before you do anything with them...
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Old 11-15-2015, 12:17 PM   #23
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After looking at your problem and reading some responses' I had to respond as well.

I have had almost the same prob on the back of my Boler.
This what I did unfortunately no pics, but I try my best to keep it simple.
First I ground down the inside area around the break with a 36 grit disc on a angle grinder. Then shaped cardboard to the exterior of the body making sure the curve was at least as sharp as the body contour and adhered it with packing tape to the body exterior.
Applied a couple 3 layers of glas directly to the body and cardboard and let set overnight.
Then ground off the cardboard, roughened up the glas I applied and took off the gel coat a couple of inches around the injury. Then applied a couple coats of glas and let set overnight.
The next day ground off excess roughed up the glas and finished with bondo and paint.
In your case if you don't get the curve perfect add more glas to the side that needs it.
Have you any experience with glas?
Fred
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Old 11-15-2015, 04:26 PM   #24
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Cardboard & great stuff expandable foam is great for making molds for fiberglassing on top of. ... The key ... is to use wax paper so the fiber glass will release from you molds as a substitution for the gel coat used in professional molds.
Great ideas

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I'm trying to find a visual on the process because I'm not getting the steps involved in the process of recreating a curved mold with the piece missing ....
Think CSI - footprint at a crime scene. Pour plaster into the footprint and you get a copy of what made the print. Then you can take the plaster mold and make more footprints in the ground. Most people learnt how to work with molds using play dough as kids.
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Old 11-15-2015, 04:43 PM   #25
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Lol. I get the mold now , it's how to adhere it. I assume from the interior of the shell?
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Old 11-15-2015, 05:02 PM   #26
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I assume from the interior of the shell?
That depends. if you made the mold from the exterior you place the mold on the exterior. Just slide over into position. Do the opposite if you used the interior.

Don't worry about the curve of the wheel well. Make your patch bigger and after it's set, cut/grind it to shape. One of those flap wheel discs on a grinder will shape it in no time.

Here is another analogy, when you patch drywall or do body work, you overfill and sand to shape.
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Old 11-15-2015, 05:11 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by FRED SMAILES View Post
After looking at your problem and reading some responses' I had to respond as well.

I have had almost the same prob on the back of my Boler.
This what I did unfortunately no pics, but I try my best to keep it simple.
First I ground down the inside area around the break with a 36 grit disc on a angle grinder. Then shaped cardboard to the exterior of the body making sure the curve was at least as sharp as the body contour and adhered it with packing tape to the body exterior.
Applied a couple 3 layers of glas directly to the body and cardboard and let set overnight.
Then ground off the cardboard, roughened up the glas I applied and took off the gel coat a couple of inches around the injury. Then applied a couple coats of glas and let set overnight.
The next day ground off excess roughed up the glas and finished with bondo and paint.
In your case if you don't get the curve perfect add more glas to the side that needs it.
Have you any experience with glas?
Fred
something like the above idea is preferable to making a piece and sticking it on. I would screw a piece of galvanized sheet metal to the backside of the fender...that will give you the contour and fiberglass doesn't stick to it...grind the edge to a taper, then fiberglass 3 layers of mat, not cloth...after it sets, draw a line to fit the curve of the wheel well/fender and saw off excess....then sand, bondo, sand, prime and paint...you can do it....Fiberglass Dave
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Old 11-15-2015, 05:21 PM   #28
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so sheet metal or whatever used on the backside is removed and replaced with fiberglass to bond once mold is in place?
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