Door will not close on new scamp 16' trailer

[Mutchen]

Hi all, I have a new 2015 scamp 16' trailer and the door handle sags after the door is closed. IS this common or could there be a broken spring inside the lock. The door is difficult to close and I'm not sure if the latch is set incorrectly. We are out travelling and had the door swing open on the expressway. Do others have trouble with the door handle and does anyone have suggestions on how to fix this. Thanks

[tractors1]

Don't know Scamp lock details, but I would definitely have a roll of duct tape or two for keeping the door from swinging until the problem is resolved!

[gage]

If the door opens while on the road then your not getting the door closed completely. That will also cause the door handle inside to sag. Inside , all you have to do is pull the door a quick jerk by the handle (you'll feel it latch, might even hear it click). The whole thing will loosen up in time when the door seal starts to compress. What you also might do in the meantime is adjust your catch . Maybe remove a shim if there is one. If not, tap it with a hammer (outward) a little at a time until the handle sets itself. If that doesn't work, take it back to the dealer and have them show you what your doing wrong. It seems strange that they would let a trailer off the lot whos door wouldn't close all the way.

[kootenaigirl]

Not sure if this will solve your issue but sometimes on Scamps once you have shut the door you also need to give another push by the lock and you will hear a click, then you know its closed. Its wise also to lock it before travelling

[Carl Pa]

On my new 2014 Scamp 16` you have to push in the door holding the handle lever so that when you push, it clears the striker, then engage the the lever in the closed position then lock it. Check it by puling on the handle lever making sure it is locked. The handle lever will sag a little. There is no automatic click or anything like that every movement is manual. Good luck on the new Scamp. Carl

[Kardon]

When our scamp was brand new in 2012, we had the same problem. Even to the door swinging open onus once. We quickly learned to always give the door that extra push and then check to make sure it was secure. It was very stiff at first but either it has improved with time or we've gotten used to it. We stillalways make sure the door is latched and locked before we get on the road.

[Uplander]

Don't own a Scamp, however one of the check points on my departure check list is to "dead-bolt lock" the entry door before travel. If this unit is not produced with a dead-bolt lock I would have one installed and use it!

Safety First!

Happy Camping!

[Morganza]

We have an early 2014 Scamp 16 with the same problem. The first thing I did, as suggested by someone here, was to rotate the handle 90 degrees so that it points down instead of horizontal. This not only made it much easier for my wife to deal with the tight latch, but it now hangs straight down without sagging. I don't think the sagging hurts anything, it just looks bad. The latch just has a lot of play in it.
As time passed, we got tired of wrestling with the tight door latch, so I took the latch apart and added a thin shim beneath the large shim which is under the inside latch. I used an old piece of linoleum tile for the shim. If the shim is too thick the main shaft will not be long enough. It didn't take much to make the latch easier to work from inside or out, plus keeping a good seal on the door. Other than that, it's a matter of technique. We found one that works for inside and outside closing and we use that. I've also made a habit of pushing on the door to make sure the latch is engaged then locking the door when getting underway.

[Wayne Collins]

[QUOTE=Morganza;528781]We have an early 2014 Scamp 16 with the same problem. The first thing I did, as suggested by someone here, was to rotate the handle 90 degrees so that it points down instead of horizontal.]

As stated by others, that extra push is needed to compress the door seals.
To counteract gravity, I reversed the outside lever handle 180 degrees, so you have to lift the handle to open. That also foils casual snoopers or thieves, because it feels like the door is locked if you pull down.
Only negative is it puts the end of the lever close the the belly band beside the door, so you have to watch not to hurt your hand.

[Mike Magee]

I've worked a Scamp door handle on one occasion and was surprised at how different (and less convenient) they are from any other door latch I have ever encountered. I wonder, has anyone ever changed one out for a conventional RV latch (like from Fastec)? Seems like it would be a big improvement if it can be done.

[Wayne Collins]

Originally Posted by Mike Magee

I've worked a Scamp door handle on one occasion and was surprised at how different (and less convenient) they are from any other door latch I have ever encountered. I wonder, has anyone ever changed one out for a conventional RV latch (like from Fastec)? Seems like it would be a big improvement if it can be done.

Yes, some have put in a house type door latch/lock. I added a dead bolt.
You have to add wood blocks inside the door and door frame to provide the thickness needed. They can be secured with screws or bolts through the fiberglass shell w/screw caps.

[Mutchen]

Thank you everyone! I really appreciate your suggestions. I think Im going to turn the handle 180° and definitely be more careful when latching the door.
Once I get this corrected, I'm going to post info on the air conditioner that I installed. I put in a 9000btu mini split system that works great and is very quiet maybe 15 decibles.

[Paul O.]

Turning the handle 180 degrees is probably going to work quite well. I solved the door problem this way:
http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...tml#post431008
and although it seems a little hokey, it works well and I have not felt compelled to find a better solution.

[Cathy P.]

I would call Scamp and inquire about it. I read where someone was using a bungee cord and called Scamp and they were sent two different door latch sets before it started to work. Also saw recently an ad for a used 2009 and in the photo, there was a bungee cord on the door. I would be very unhappy and holding Scamp responsible for explaining why this was doing this and how it was to be fixed. This may or may not be something that will go away with time and the warranty is limited and if you mess with it and it doesn't turn out right, will they honor the warranty after that.

[Darral T.]

The anwser is YES!! Some of us have removed the junky Scamp door latch/lock and added the "FIC" locks. Why Scamp wont change or at least offer this is beyond me! But here's my mod that mirrors many others in our "Scampers" Yahoo group that have done this successfully.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/503516...57643963773193

[Byron Kinnaman]

I think part of the problem in lack of knowledge provided. Scamp doors are NOT meant to be closed like a car door. Attempting to do so could break the fiberglass that the "strike" plate is attached to. Therefore the latch handle, inside or outside, should be held down, then the door closed. Release the handle then give a push or pull, outside or inside, to make sure the latch is fully engaged.
REMEMBER IT'S NOT A CAR OR HOUSE DOOR.

[Jon in AZ]

I'm a little confused about the idea of "turning the Scamp handle 180 degrees."

The problem, as I understand it, is that the factory position of the door handle (pointing toward the front of the trailer) allows the weight of the lever to rotate against the locking mechanism while the trailer is bouncing down the highway, causing it to wear out prematurely. The solution I have heard is to rotate the lever 90 degrees (pointing toward the ground) so that there is no tendency to rotate when you hit a bump.

That would reduce premature wear on the lock mechanism, but it still wouldn't ensure that the latch is fully extended behind the striker plate when you close the door for travel. You would still need to retract the latch by turning the handle, close and press firmly on the door to compress the seal, and release the handle to engage the latch behind the striker. The real culprit is the door seal, which is quite firm when new and loosens up over time. The new style flanged seal may be exacerbating the problem, since it is a tighter seal that the old style.

I agree that a modern latch with an integrated deadbolt would be a big improvement. But Scamps are, well… like VW Beetles.

[Darral T.]

Not so with the latch mod I provided. The door now shuts soundly and solidly with a slight push. I demonstrate that on a vid clip. MUCH better latch than the Frito Lays truck handles.

Originally Posted by Byron Kinnaman

I think part of the problem in lack of knowledge provided. Scamp doors are NOT meant to be closed like a car door. Attempting to do so could break the fiberglass that the "strike" plate is attached to. Therefore the latch handle, inside or outside, should be held down, then the door closed. Release the handle then give a push or pull, outside or inside, to make sure the latch is fully engaged.
REMEMBER IT'S NOT A CAR OR HOUSE DOOR.