Factory installed Transmission Cooler vs. aftermarket - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 01-01-2016, 03:21 PM   #29
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Name: Wayne & Barbara
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Iowa
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Another chance to learn the physics of automatic transmissions.
Most all vehicles today have a transmission oil cooler built into the bottom tank, or lower part, of the radiator, as standard equipment.
What make transmissions get hot, is slippage in the torque converter.
slippage increases when you drive up hill, or pull away from a stop sign.
As you gain speed, the transmission shifts into higher gears until you reach cruising speed (back off the throttle) and a lock up clutch in the torque converter engages so you have "direct drive" though to the wheels.
You can get along nicely with no added oil cooler, as long as you don't pull long hills in "Drive." Downshift manually and slow down on uphill grades to avoid overheating the tranny. Watch your engine temperature gauge (I hope you have one) and you will do just fine.
We pull our 16 ft deluxe Scamp (fully loaded weight is about 2800 lb) with a 2013 Highlander, and before that a 2007 Highlander Hybrid, and three Honda Odysses.
Never a problem.
You can help yourself with gas mileage by traveling with empty tanks (fresh water, grey water and black water. And avoid carrying heavy stuff in the back of your tug, to avoid suspension sag and weight transfer off the front drive wheels. Happy Camping.
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Old 01-01-2016, 04:36 PM   #30
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Best check the manual for your vehicle before applying advice to downshift manually.
This is from my 2008 RAV4 V6.
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Old 01-01-2016, 06:08 PM   #31
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Name: Randy J.
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Hmmmmm.... A 1500 lb. dry weight will usually translate to about 1900 lbs going down the road. I'd suggest that you do a sample loading and get an actual weight before using the 1500 lb figure
Good advice and as I say, we are considering a larger vehicle. Having said that, however our current vehicle with after market tranny cooler seems to tow it just fine both on the freeway and in the hills. Stopping is fine too although I do want to add electric brakes in any case.
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Old 01-01-2016, 06:20 PM   #32
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Name: Mike
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On the Toyota trucks i think the hitch and 7 pin connector is an option we replaced a hitch on one at the shop $1800.00 Wow .A dodge one is $400.00
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Old 01-01-2016, 06:35 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by Randy J. View Post
Good advice and as I say, we are considering a larger vehicle. Having said that, however our current vehicle with after market tranny cooler seems to tow it just fine both on the freeway and in the hills. Stopping is fine too although I do want to add electric brakes in any case.
How a vehicle can handle a specific trailer/weight needs to be based on a worst case scenario, high temp and/or wet roads and/or cross winds and/or long up or down grades, etc... You didn't mention what your "current vehicle" was so I took it that you weren't satisfied with it's performance as a TV.
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Old 01-01-2016, 06:41 PM   #34
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I had my Class 3 Hidden Hitch and brake controller etc. installed at the Toyota dealer, prior to taking delivery of my new 2008 RAV4, for $650. It was done by a installer that they brought into their shop to do the work. The Toyota factory hitch alone would have been almost $1,000 and would have been only Class 2.
My buddy had Class 3 hitches installed on his Hyundai Santa Fe and then on his new Highlander by U-Haul for about $650.
There is no need to increase Toyota or Dealer profits.
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Old 01-01-2016, 07:29 PM   #35
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Name: Gordon
Trailer: 2015 Scamp (16 Std Layout 4) with '15 Toyota Sienna LE Tug
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Originally Posted by Glenn Baglo View Post
I had my Class 3 Hidden Hitch and brake controller etc. installed at the Toyota dealer, prior to taking delivery of my new 2008 RAV4, for $650. It was done by a installer that they brought into their shop to do the work. The Toyota factory hitch alone would have been almost $1,000 and would have been only Class 2.
My buddy had Class 3 hitches installed on his Hyundai Santa Fe and then on his new Highlander by U-Haul for about $650.
There is no need to increase Toyota or Dealer profits.
And I installed my class 3 hitch on my Toyota Sienna for $127.20 (trailer lights and brake controller not included). It was an easy choice since Toyota does not even offer a hitch receiver for this van at any price (although they do provide the mounting points.. go figure!). Some things are am comfortable with adding aftermarket and/or DIY. Others, I think preferably should be factory or at least dealer installs.. a transmission cooler (if a supplemental one is required) falls in to the later category IMHO.

(PS..Some people keep asking the same question over and over again... when the cheese is gone, the hole just gets larger.. why don't you see that? )
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Old 01-01-2016, 07:29 PM   #36
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Name: Frederick / Janis
Trailer: Previously Scamp 13 2002,2016. Scamp 16 on order
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quote: On the Toyota trucks i think the hitch and 7 pin connector is an option we replaced a hitch on one at the shop $1800.00 Wow .A dodge one is $400.00


My Toyota dealer sends vehicles down the street to a Trucks 'N Stuff kind of shop. Want a hitch or wiring? A tonneau cover? That's where he farms out the work. That shop has Curt, Hidden Hitch, Reese, etc, all the typical names.

Class III hitch and wiring for my Tacoma was $450. I've bought/installed a few hitches and wiring kits from E-Trailer in the past but this time? I couldn't really do it myself any cheaper so, I took my Toyota's dealer's offer and it was done whle the wife and I had a nice lunch. Painless.
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Old 01-01-2016, 11:51 PM   #37
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If Honda says 5000 lbs with an auxiliary cooler, then they probably have that cooler available as a Honda-provided, dealer-installed item. I wouldn't have any hesitation to go that route.

Toyota includes some extra stuff besides the cooler in their factory tow package, so I made a point to get a HL with that package. I might have gotten by ok with just an aftermarket cooler, but I felt better about having the whole package; it only added a few bucks to the monthly payment.
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