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Old 12-11-2014, 09:04 AM   #21
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Name: Bob Ruggles
Trailer: 2015 Escape
Michigan
Posts: 1,537
I had an awning put on my EggCamper. Got it from the factory and they installed it. There is an outside rail that is fastened through from the outside to the inside. It's bolted on with a washer on the inside to spread the stress. It's looks like it's about 1 1/4 inch in diameter. I was not about to drill through myself. If they had screwed it up, it would have been their responsibility to fix it. The only changes that I know of since I bought mine is that he now puts the spare tire in the closet instead of on the bumper. Makes no sense to me. We also found that all electric did not work for us in less than warm weather. I had a local rv repair shop install propane with both a furnace and cooktop. Boondocking in cold weather without electricity is not nice. I have two batteries and have used the furnace at night as late as last week while at camp Flying J. Also, the dinette is not long enough to make a decent bed for an adult. Because of that, my son sleeps on the floor (and he's 49 years old). That along with the two gallon water heater and thesmall fresh and holding tanks being so small is why I've ordered and will get an Escape 19 in the spring. Otherwise, the EggCamper is a great trailer, tows very well, and I get 14-15 mpg towing with my Chevy Silverado V8.
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Old 12-11-2014, 10:10 AM   #22
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Name: Christian
Trailer: 2014 EggCamper
All over TX and NM
Posts: 11
I have done some drilling on the interior, not on the exterior. The fiberglass drills rather easily. If you need larger holes, like I needed to run some cables through the walls, you need a carbide or better yet diamond hole saw.
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Old 12-11-2014, 10:44 AM   #23
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Name: David
Trailer: Former 13’Scamp, now Snoozy
Arizona
Posts: 2,316
Registry
I've attached our solar panels with very high bond (VH double stick tape from 3M designed for outdoor use. I can not foresee having any problems with it coming off.
Dave & Paula
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Old 12-14-2014, 10:02 PM   #24
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Name: Christian
Trailer: 2014 EggCamper
All over TX and NM
Posts: 11
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Originally Posted by coastsignal View Post
Hi Christian,
The new Egg looks real nice!
Anyone having experience or comments about drilling holes in the Eggcamper? That knowledge would be appreciated. We just bought a used 2012 Eggcamper and would like to install an awning, solar and maybe some other mods to the exterior of the camper. So, I would like to know how the factory attaches things to the outside of the Eggcamper or any tips on: to drill or not, where to drill, and where not to, what you run into when drilling an Eggcamper, what screws, sealant, to use etc. Someone commented that they considered using industrial strength Velcro to hold the solar panels on the roof. Anyone have experience with fiberglass & velcro holding ability? I use Ind. strength Velcro often, but have never used it on Fiberglass. I would worry that eventually, even with Ind. strength, the hold would fail.
Thank-You
Mark

I should also add that industrial strength velcro works perfectly for sticking things to the gel coat in the EggCamper. Jim strongly recommends doing a wipe of the area with acetone prior to sticking anything to the egg, and my experience with this has been great so far. I attached a 38" Vizio sound bar and an Xbox 360 to the wall at the foot of the bed under the window on the street side. I probably used way too much of the grey extra industrial strength velcro, but I have already driven some REALLY brutal roads with the EggCamper, and everything that was attached was no worse for wear.
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Old 12-17-2014, 03:26 PM   #25
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Name: Mark
Trailer: EggCamper 2012 #109, by 2006 Tundra or 2014 Outback
Western Massachusetts
Posts: 156
What size of the Industrial Strength Extreme (gray) Velcro worked the best? It's available to me, in 2"x4", 4"x6",1"x10'. Any preferences or comments?
Thanks, Mark
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Old 12-17-2014, 03:31 PM   #26
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Name: Christian
Trailer: 2014 EggCamper
All over TX and NM
Posts: 11
I used the 2x4", and for most applications, that is going to be massive overkill. I ended up cutting it into smaller pieces for most applications. Used the full size to mount my sound bar, and had to take it off the wall a couple of times, and it was rather challenging to do so because the velcro holds so strongly. Unless you are hanging something really heavy, the 1" width is going to be most useful in my opinion.
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Old 12-18-2014, 09:50 PM   #27
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Name: Mark
Trailer: EggCamper 2012 #109, by 2006 Tundra or 2014 Outback
Western Massachusetts
Posts: 156
Thanks for the comments. I've found that using the regular Industrial strength (not the Extreme version), that sometimes the weak part is the glue on the Velcro, and not the Velcro sides holding to each other.
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Old 12-23-2014, 09:36 PM   #28
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Name: Conrad
Trailer: Bigfoot 3000 & Barth "slide-in" truck camper
Connecticut
Posts: 958
I don't see the pint of using Velcro unless you want to remove it.


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Old 12-23-2014, 10:42 PM   #29
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Trailer: 1988 16 ft Scamp Deluxe
Posts: 25,697
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Originally Posted by Night Sailor View Post
I don't see the pint of using Velcro unless you want to remove it.
Maybe because folks don't want to drill holes in an all molded towable?
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Ten Forward - 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
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Old 12-23-2014, 11:25 PM   #30
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Name: Conrad
Trailer: Bigfoot 3000 & Barth "slide-in" truck camper
Connecticut
Posts: 958
I would not drill holes in any case. I would use UHB tape.


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Old 12-24-2014, 12:34 PM   #31
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Name: Mark
Trailer: EggCamper 2012 #109, by 2006 Tundra or 2014 Outback
Western Massachusetts
Posts: 156
At some point, I think we may want to remove the panels for replacement, reconfiguration, or to install newer or more efficient panels, or for cleaning. Is there an easy way to remove the UHB/VHB tape if needed?
Thanks, Mark
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