Hello and some questions - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV

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Old 07-10-2015, 03:37 PM   #15
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Name: Lisa
Trailer: Boler 1974 13 ft
Posts: 250
I found that removing all food and cleaning thoroughly before storage helps. Also liberally spread mothballs and dcon. One repels, the other kills. Last thing, I did find a nest one season in a roll of (destroyed) toilet paper. I decided to leave it and it was the only rodent damage there was despite 5 years under a tarp in a field.

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Old 07-10-2015, 04:01 PM   #16
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Name: bob
Trailer: 1984 u-haul ct13; 1996 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe; 1946 Modernistic teardrop
New York
Posts: 4,681
Others have reported the mice using the Bounce sheets to make a nest. Never tried them myself so have no direct experience either way. Had a mouse chew a half dollar size hole in the canvas of my daughters pop-up a few years ago. After that is when my local RV dealer told me about poison under the trailer by the wheels. Read in a car magazine about the Fresh Cab. No mouse problems since using both. Bought a bucket of poison pellets from Tractor Supply ( they have the Fresh Cab too ) and a bucket of chunks. The mice seem to like the pellets best.

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Old 07-11-2015, 07:40 AM   #17
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Name: Patrick
Trailer: Shopping for new RV
North Carolina
Posts: 633
Poison pellets attract mice (contain food and therefore the food odor attracts rodents). They look like they are working because you see feeding activity!...think about it!!
Moth balls have been proven not to repel mice...they and their odor causing chemical are harmful to humans not mice.
The "Fresh Cab" product has worked for me in my travel trailer along with Bounce dryer sheets and most important...REMOVAL OF ALL FOOD PRODUCTS, including rodent baits that contain a food attractant along with the poison.
Put dryer sheets at all points of possible entry...keep in mind that mice can squeeze through any opening no matter how small....you can not deny them entry unless you use repellent (odor) products that they find offensive.

Many years ago I ended the over winter mouse damage to my tractors by using Bounce dryer sheets around the engine and wiring....the stuff works if it is fresh and has lots of odor. I hate these little devils!!
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Old 07-11-2015, 07:54 AM   #18
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Name: Bob
Trailer: 1973 Hunter Compact II
Posts: 7,912
Going back to your original question, in vintage FGRV's it's all about condition, condition and condition. While my 1973 Hunter needed very few structural repairs, I have seen other vintage FGRV's with everything from broken door hinges to cracked frames.

That said, most brands of vintage FGRV's are fairly equal in quality, but a thorough inspection is your best friend. If you are unfamiliar with how to inspect a trailer you might want to find someone to go with you who has some experience with FGRV's or at least with RV's in general.

BTW: What will you be towing with???? Some FGRV's are a bit heavier than they appear and weight is always a considerations.

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Old 07-11-2015, 07:03 PM   #19
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Name: Brian
Trailer: Looking
New York
Posts: 18
Thanks everyone for your feedback. I'll be starting a new thread with pics. I bought a '79 Trillium 4500 that is (in my uneducated opinion) in excellent condition. Take a look and see what you think.
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Old 07-11-2015, 07:04 PM   #20
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Name: Brian
Trailer: Looking
New York
Posts: 18
Originally Posted by Bob Miller View Post
BTW: What will you be towing with???? Some FGRV's are a bit heavier than they appear and weight is always a considerations.
I'll be towing my 4500 with a '09 Forester. From what I've read as far as the towing capacity vs. the weight of the Trillium, I think I am well within tolerances. Thoughts?

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