Hello, from Flint, Michigan - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-04-2015, 05:44 PM   #15
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Name: RogerDat
Trailer: 77 Scamp 13
Michigan
Posts: 3,081
Well Flint is in a good spot for some short road trips to good camping that's for sure.

Post a picture from the side showing the wheel and wheel well. But in a rough sense if the wheel well cuts across the tire above the rim and you can get your fist above the tire you are golden.

If you really want to measure the exact degree of wear or loss of ride height remove a wheel with the trailer firmly on jackstands. Look at the end of the axle where the arm going toward the wheel spindle is attached. Should be a square shaft coming through that arm and welded on.

Shaft is oriented so it looks like a diamond <> rather than [] when first installed the horizontal "points" would have been parallel to the trailer frame, irrespective of what the original angle up or down the arm was set to. The arms can be parallel with the frame (zero degree angle) or angled up or down at different angles (up to 45 degrees in either direction). So when someone says the have a 5 degree down angle axle they are saying the arm points down 5 degrees when the shaft corners are parallel to the trailer frame.

If you figure out what angle was originally you can then assess what the current angle is and determine how much it has settled from wear. But I really go back to my first statement. If you rim is below the wheel well and there is about 3 inches above the tire you should be in good shape. These were low trailers, hence no step in the door way.
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Old 08-04-2015, 08:34 PM   #16
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Name: Jacob
Trailer: Scamp
Michigan
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Thanks Rich and Val. I'll look into that.

Mike, Thanks for the welcome. I think we're escaping next week to Thunder Bay, just south of Alpena. I'm excited about our first trip.
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Old 08-04-2015, 08:52 PM   #17
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Name: Jacob
Trailer: Scamp
Michigan
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RogerDat, I've posted the best picture I've got right now. I can take a better one tomorrow. I can't get my fist between the tire and wheel well. I haven't gotten it onto a jackstand yet, though I intend to.

I'm not sure I fully understand your description of the shaft, though I may see it better once I pull the wheel off. I guess I'm not sure what you mean by the original angle. Will I see that when it's jacked up and the wheel is off?

I went to trailer/rv place today for something unrelated and talked to someone there who's helped me out before. I suggested I simply bring the Scamp to them and they'll take a look. I'm going to take him up on it, too.

Thanks.
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Old 08-04-2015, 08:59 PM   #18
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Name: Jacob
Trailer: Scamp
Michigan
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RogerDat, Okay, I couldn't wait. I just went out and looked. The side of the wheel well covers approximately 1/2" of the rim. I reread your post again and I think I'm starting to understand the shaft orientation. I'll have to get it on jackstands, though.

Thanks again.
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Old 08-05-2015, 08:40 AM   #20
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Name: Jacob
Trailer: Scamp
Michigan
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Okay, that video was very helpful. I get it now. Thanks. I took a better picture of mine this morning. The trim either contracted or was replaced and stretched too tightly, thus the odd angular look of the wheelwell. You can still see how low it rides.

Thanks again.
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Old 08-05-2015, 09:54 AM   #21
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Name: Emily
Trailer: Scamp
Michigan
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Jacob, Nice snag on your Scamp! We just got our 83 "new" scamp too. Have fun making it your own. Projects, always something to be done! We picked ours up in Millington, not to far from Flint. Lots of nice places to go in MI!!! Happy Camping!


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Old 08-05-2015, 09:57 AM   #22
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Name: RogerDat
Trailer: 77 Scamp 13
Michigan
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That video is pretty good as an explanation of the whole torsion axle design. Been posted before a few times.

I will add that the resistance the old rubber in my original axle was as bad as the 3rd generation trailer builder that replaced it had ever seen. He said normally to get that arm out of the way requires a big pry bar because your trying to push against the rubber suspension that supports the trailer, mine he used a big screw driver.

Like I said it still worked but the ride was a little rough.

I would also add for your trailer guy that the easiest way to remove the original axle welds is to cut the arm off, however you then have to make a new axle work because there is no going back to the old one once you start cutting it up.
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Old 08-06-2015, 12:49 PM   #23
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Name: Jacob
Trailer: Scamp
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M, thanks. Yea, Millington is practically our backyard. We love to camp and are looking forward to using the Scamp.

RogerDat, I went to the trailer place. Yes, I need a new axle. Now I'm working out how to get a trailing arm since the Scamp has a forward facing arm. I'd like to be able to add brakes now or in the future. I contacted Scamp and they said it can be done with some blocks and make appropriate adjustments for trailer height. So that's in my near future. I'll be glad, though, to have better piece of mind and a smoother ride, especially for Michigan roads and some light off-roads.
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Old 08-06-2015, 01:50 PM   #24
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Name: RogerDat
Trailer: 77 Scamp 13
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I may know a place you can get a leading arm axle. With brakes. Goes right back into the same spot.

Al-Ko axle rather than Dexter brand but back then Al-Ko is what came on them, Dexter was later. There is one other manufacturer that makes an adjustable angle axle. Forget what brand it is.

Not sure of the details without looking through some old posts (or asking the guy that did mine) but for a leading arm you need a certain amount of down angle arm for brakes.

PM me and I'll see if I can get you the part number. Probably on a tag of my axle or if not then I can swing by the shop that did the work. Al-Ko stopped making leading arm BUT guy that did the work, does a lot of business with them so they created a part number for it and cranked one out. Part number in computer = it can be ordered.
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Old 08-06-2015, 06:42 PM   #25
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Name: Michael
Trailer: Li'l Hauley
Oklahoma
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A leading arm axle will change the trailer's point of balance. After it's installed, be sure to weigh your trailer tongue when loaded for camping (a bathroom scale will usually work) to make sure you have 10% or more of the total trailer weight on the tongue. Too little tongue weight can lead to disastrous sway. But it should be easy to load differently if you need more weight up front.

The adjustable angle axle is Flexiride.

(edit) : Oops, I should have said "trailing arm".
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Old 08-06-2015, 09:43 PM   #26
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Name: Jacob
Trailer: Scamp
Michigan
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RogerDat, I'm going to dig a bit deeper into a trailing arm axle and see what my trailer place can do. I'm not sure I see an advantage of a leading arm, other than that's what I currently have. Scamps says I can go with a trailing arm, so I'll see.

Mike, I assume you mean a trailing arm axle (I have a leading arm axle now). That's helpful, though. I appreciate the information. I don't know if my trailer place does Flexiride, but I can investigate that as an option, and if it's a good one, maybe I can find a trailer place that can do that for me.

Thanks.
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Old 08-07-2015, 06:42 AM   #27
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Name: Ron
Trailer: 24 ft 5th Wheel Shadow Cruiser
Michigan
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Welcome to da forum,,we live near AuGres and camp all over Michigan??one favorite place is Alcona Park,west of Glennie.
PM me for more info Ron
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Old 08-07-2015, 06:59 AM   #28
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Name: Bob
Trailer: 1973 Hunter Compact II
California
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Converter/Inverter Noise?

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Originally Posted by FlintBound View Post
emij, I thought that was what the power inverter did. It's just a bit loud, but I guess if we had something we really needed to run that took juice, it's nice to have. Does your inverter make a relatively loud hum?

Yes, I'm excited to extend the season a bit. I don't mind the cold, but my wife doesn't love it quite as much as I do.
Converters are usually built in by the MFG and converts 120VAC shore power to 12VDC for appliances etc., and usually charge the coach battery.

Inverters are usually aftermarket items, and convert battery power to 120 VAC for items that need that power when shore power is not available.

As most inverters are fairly new and much higher tech than older converters. They, except for a cooling fan, usually don't make any noise.

However, older converters often hum and buzz, usually due to the metal core plates in their power transformers loosening with age. This can be repaired but, unless you are a knowledgeable technician, can get expensive if the job has to be farmed out.

While my usual solution is to install a Progressive Dynamics PD-4045 power center that updates the electrical system to 2015 standards, others prefer to repair the old-school systems that cook batteries and are one short circuit from smoke. LOLOLOL
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