Hi I am a proud new ower of a 1980 Scamp - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-22-2013, 10:03 PM   #1
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Name: Nathan
Trailer: 1980 Scamp
Michigan
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Hi I am a proud new ower of a 1980 Scamp

Its a work in progress. I currently have it up on saw horses. I have to replace the wood floor and do some frame welding. I have a few points I am stuck on.

1. The best way to remove the front and back floor from the fiberglass walls.

2. What to do with the elephant skin. Can I paint it? what kind of paint? what do you do to the ugly joint seams along it? or can I buy it and what does a roll typically cost ?

3. What should I seal the exterior Grade plywood with ?

Im sorry for the barrage of questions off the bat.
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Old 08-22-2013, 11:55 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by natem View Post
Its a work in progress. I currently have it up on saw horses. I have to replace the wood floor and do some frame welding. I have a few points I am stuck on.

1. The best way to remove the front and back floor from the fiberglass walls.

2. What to do with the elephant skin. Can I paint it? what kind of paint? what do you do to the ugly joint seams along it? or can I buy it and what does a roll typically cost ?

3. What should I seal the exterior Grade plywood with ?

Im sorry for the barrage of questions off the bat.
to FGRV Nathan,

You will be better off if you slow down and come up with a game plan. Replace one section of floor at a time. You should eventually have to drop the frame, so plan that into your schedule. How is your axle?

The elephant skin is called ensolite. You will use latex caulking and seam tape, possibly paint if needed.

It is best to search each item separately and come up with your own ideas. Tom will pipe in and tell you how to search. It looks as though you have a good grasp on what needs to be done.
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Old 08-23-2013, 01:16 AM   #3
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Trailer: 77 Scamp 13
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The seam tape from scamp is known for it's lack of ability to stick for long. I used 3m 77 spray on adhesive on the wall along the seam then stuck the tape on after letting the adhesive tack up, seemed to work pretty well. Google scamp store, it's under trims. 2 rolls is plenty.

People have reported finding other suppliers of the tape that is of higher quality than that sold by Scamp. Maybe one of them will post a link to a source.

Others have gone with a caulk and dab with wet sponge to blend in the seam.

You would be surprised at how well that elephant hide wall covering cleans up given some elbow grease, cleaning solution, and plenty of rinse water. You have to clean it and rinse it really well to paint. When done cleaning stand back look it over and decide if you need to take on a painting project. Or not.

Not sure exactly what you mean about best way to remove walls from floor? The walls are attached to the floor using fiberglass cloth and resin. You have to cut it, and then sand the bottom of the walls to prep for new application.

You might want to think about all you plan to do, then break it down into steps. Post threads on the specific steps. Frame repair and floor replacement as a distinct thread from seam tape or painting. There are several people here who have done a body off frame and floor replacement, have posted lots of information and will pitch in if the thread is on that subject.

Use the search, the Site Search Google search from the menu drop down, not the regular forum search, you will probably find lots of pictures and information on frame/floor work. First item, second page includes a youtube video.

http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/m...mp+frame&sa=Go

Good luck on bringing your baby back to the world of camping!
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Old 08-23-2013, 05:41 AM   #4
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Hi Nathan, to FiberglassRV, we're glad you're here

There's lots of kind and helpful people here on the forums, with lots of good information in the archives.

I'd suggest, when you run into an issue to post one problem per thread in the Problem Solving forum. It sure helps with search and keeps all the answers from getting tangled up.

No need to rush, expecting answers for everything. We'll be here for as long as you need us and, please post pictures as you move through the rehab. We love pics!
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Old 08-23-2013, 07:37 AM   #5
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..........Tom will pipe in and tell you how to search. ....
OK, here is the magic key:
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Old 08-23-2013, 07:49 AM   #6
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Name: Nathan
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Roy in TO

Why will I have to drop the frame ?
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Old 08-23-2013, 08:04 AM   #7
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Roy in TO

Why will I have to drop the frame ?
Not Roy but I'll answer. Fiberglass and welding don't mix. Or, for general maintenance in checking for rust, cracks or the axel.

The tongue broke off my 77' 13' Trillium yesterday (while pulling it on the Interstate -no damage, no one hurt) . So, I'll be one of those people in here urging people to really give the frame a good going over!

AND -
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Old 08-23-2013, 08:09 AM   #8
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I have to replace the wood floor and do some frame welding.
Quote:
Originally Posted by natem View Post
Why will I have to drop the frame ?
It makes the top 2 items easier and you will end up with better results. Some key search terms are "body off" and "drop frame" or "frame removal".
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Old 08-23-2013, 12:23 PM   #9
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Name: Nathan
Trailer: 1980 Scamp
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Originally Posted by Roy in TO View Post
to FGRV Nathan,

You will be better off if you slow down and come up with a game plan. Replace one section of floor at a time. You should eventually have to drop the frame, so plan that into your schedule. How is your axle?

The elephant skin is called ensolite. You will use latex caulking and seam tape, possibly paint if needed.

It is best to search each item separately and come up with your own ideas. Tom will pipe in and tell you how to search. It looks as though you have a good grasp on what needs to be done.

I was told when I bought the camper that the axle was aligned last year when the new tires were installed. I know its not a factory axle as it is a 4 bolt with electric brakes. How would I tell if the axle was bad ?

Thanks for the help
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Old 08-23-2013, 03:45 PM   #10
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Pretty sure 4 bolt is the standard axle configuration. Others with wider experience may know specifics of your year.

Post #16 of this page Scamp 13 Axle describes how to figure out the "orginal" up or down angle of the axle arm. Compare original angle to current angle of arm.

If it started life with arm at 10 degree down angle and now arm is above frame it's getting worn. It's the rubber inside the axle that the arm twists against that provides a suspension. Rubber wears out arm gets pushed higher by weight of trailer.

If sitting on the ground with weight of trailer on wheels your wheel well cuts across the middle of the top half of the rim rather than the rubber of the tire I would suspect it's worn.

Worn out is more relative. Lot of worn axles on the road, if the tires are not hitting the top of the wheel well going over bumps or tires are not wearing really fast it's not a crisis.

Not sure how one aligns axle? Bracket welded to frame, axle bolted to bracket. Unless there are slots or something instead of holes?
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Old 08-23-2013, 04:27 PM   #11
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OMG: In the pic of it up in the air, the wheels are well up into the wheel wells, indicating a sagging axle. I imagine on the ground, unless they are limited by mechanical stops already, that they will go up even further.

As mentioned, there are no "Alignment" adjustments as everything is usually welded in place.

But all bets would be that, if it's an original axle (some had brakes, some had the brakes added afterwards), it will have sagged (as shown) until the wheels are well up in the wheel wells.

In that case the only possible "adjustment" is a new axle as the rubber torsion pieces inside the axle tube are compressed due to age.

The good news, it's a lot easier (and cheaper) to fix with the coach off the frame.
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Old 08-23-2013, 04:59 PM   #12
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OMG: In the pic of it up in the air, the wheels are well up into the wheel wells, indicating a sagging axle. I imagine on the ground, unless they are limited by mechanical stops already, that they will go up even further.....
I also wondered about that, as it presents in the picture it's up in the well a bit but not as bad as some... does the rubber hold the wheel up under no load as well down under load? Or does compression act to allow more "sag" in either situation?

Only mechanical stop on a Scamp axle that I have heard of is the tire hitting the wheel well.

That tire is showing about as much (no load) as I was told to expect from a new 22.5 degree down angle axle on my 13 foot sitting on the ground. About 2 inch difference between no load and load for a new axle.

I guess the real question for the OP is how much higher does the tire move up in the wheel well when sitting on the ground?

Oh and one important thing, much easier to replace axle with coach off but whatever you do don't weld the axle or brackets from above, really hard to grind those welds off with coach and floor back on to replace axle if bracket or axle is ever damaged.
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Old 08-23-2013, 06:13 PM   #13
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Name: Nathan
Trailer: 1980 Scamp
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I took a picture of the axle. I am going to replace it.
I have not had any luck in locating one yet.

Bah my phone put the image upside down.
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Old 08-23-2013, 06:59 PM   #14
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Scamp can provide you exactly what you need. OR, you can try Red Neck Trailer Supplies, BUT YOU have to supply ALL the measurements because the axle will be built to YOUR specs: Redneck Trailer Supplies - 20 National Branch Locations

You can also buy direct from Dexter (they'll give you a local vendor), but there again YOU have to supply the specs.

Good luck!
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