Hi I am cactus-terry, I am new here from Arizona - Fiberglass RV


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Old 03-30-2018, 09:05 PM   #1
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Name: Terrill
Trailer: SCAMP
AZ
Posts: 8
Hi I am cactus-terry, I am new here from Arizona

After searching and being continually late trying to get a Scamp for about 6 months, I finally was able to buy a 1989 Scamp 16 #4. Iím retired and was looking forward to many days boon docking in Arizona and the SW.
The PO said he placed a plate over the flooring to further protect the floor under the rear table. Sounded reasonable. After I purchased it in Texas and returned to Arizona, I decided to remove the micro wave and the fridge from the cabinet next to the side door for more storage. What I found was mold and then after removing the wooden plate under the bottom shelf, I saw daylight, and the road beneath the RV. About a 4 x 7 inch hole. There was a metal plate with undercoating so I couldnít see in on inspection.
After flushing the water tanks I noticed the water leaking from the floor under the RV. So I removed both rear seats and the table. Then I removed the metal plate and no wonder the PO placed a metal plate on it. The floor is so rotted, I about fell through.
I feel I bought a lemon. There are other issues, but Iíll not mention them right now.

So my question, how can I replace the flooring on the drivers side and also in the rear below the seats and the table? I live in a 55+ community so I cannot do a cabin off frame removal.

Anyone in the Mesa/ Phoenix area solved this problem? Anywhere actually.
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Old 03-31-2018, 04:39 AM   #2
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Name: Kevin
Trailer: 28' Bigfoot Silver Cloud
Woodstock, IL
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I won't be able to help with the floor repair, but many folks here can offer what they have done. It does sound, though, like you need to address the water leak first. That has most likely led to the mold and rot you found. You could have a cracked tank or broken piping. These are fixable and Scamp can offer help, too. Best of luck. With fiberglass trailers, almost everything can be repaired.
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Old 03-31-2018, 06:09 AM   #3
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Name: Eddie
Trailer: 2014 Escape 21
Virginia
Posts: 1,595
With a Scamp floor you do not do a frame off repair unless you have frame issues. The scamp upper floor consist of four sections. You need to repair one section at a time. Floor repair is not very expensive, usually about $200. for materials. It can be messy and takes several days per section due to waiting for paint to dry and resin to cure. Once complete you will be really happy with the results. There are several threads here on how the process goes. A multi-tool, drill and 4" grinder are the main power tools required. Not too bad a job after you get started, just be prepared to get dirty.
Eddie
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Old 03-31-2018, 07:13 AM   #4
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Name: Jon
Trailer: 2008 Scamp 13 S1
Arizona
Posts: 6,709
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Eddie, I agree with your assessment, but your "several days" would be my "several months"... LOL! You are skilled and experienced- for a newbie, this is a pretty fair-sized project that involves disconnecting and reinstalling plumbing and appliances, maybe some wiring, as well as R&Ring the fiberglass cabinetry and fiberglass work. I believe the weather in Mesa is already headed into the 90's- won't be long before it's too hot to work in the driveway.

I'm confused on one small point, Terry. You mentioned the "microwave and the fridge from the cabinet next to the side door" and later said "driver's side." Did you mean "curb side"?

I'd also inspect the frame very closely. Older Scamp 16's are subject to structural rust and cracking, especially just under the front cabin near where the main frame rails bend to form the A-frame. Don't want to put a brand new floor onto a bad frame. Even then, there's a good chance it can be repaired & reinforced without removing the shell.

Terry, you didn't get a lemon, you got a project, and that seller probably knew it. Time to take a realistic look at your skills, time, space, and budget and make a hard decision- is this project for you or for someone else? If it's for someone else, it's better to sell it before it's in pieces.

But if it's for you, I wish you the best. There is lots of help on this forum. As Kevin says, there's not much that can't be fixed, and as Eddie says, when you're done it will be better than new. Maybe you could just use it this summer with a little patch-up to get out of the heat and tackle the major work starting in the fall. Do check the frame, though- a broken frame on the way to Payson would not be fun.

I'll add a belated welcome to the forum, Terry. Sorry it is under bad circumstances. We're up in the White Mountains near Pinetop. Afraid I'm not much help with actual restoration work, as our trailer is fairly new. There is at least one experienced Scamp renovator active on the forum who lives in the east valley. Hoping he will chime in.
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Old 03-31-2018, 08:35 AM   #5
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Name: bob
Trailer: Was A-Liner now 13f Scamp
Missouri
Posts: 2,739
my opinion

its too bad the p/o was a liar he allowed a plumbing line to leak and leak now more serious problems. but maybe it made no difference to him!

you say you are retired I am retired I would sell it take the loss and move on but I am 76 maybe you are 60 big difference. as has been said you will be moving cabinents and digging out the old plywood may be a big deal for you or a small one depending on your age and knowledge!

I just finished a small wiring job 3 outlets one light took me 2 weeks between a little work and pain pills. climbing ladders stooping over messes me up!

good luck whatever you decide and welcome there are some real pros on rebuilding our fiberglass trailers here!

bob
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Old 03-31-2018, 10:46 AM   #6
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Name: Kathleen
Trailer: Amerigo FG-16 1973 "Peanut"
Washington
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cactus-terry, having been through a similar experience ourselves, I send you my sympathy and encouragement. If you're resolved to fix it all, you can, one way or another. It took us 9 months (10 hours a day, 7 days a week!) to completely gut and redo the inside of our amerigo...but amerigos have an inner wall so it was in some ways more extensive to repair. entire floor had to be replaced. Most inner walls were rotted at the bottom and delaminating halfway or more up. Over 82 holes in the outer fiberglass shell. We learned a lot, worked a lot, planned a lot, paid a lot...for the original purchase and then for the extensive repairs. BUT when we finished (and we did) we had a trailer that suited us and we know every inch of the thing now.

Our very best wishes to you! and welcome to FGRV and fiberglass trailering.

Good repairing...and then happy trails! (happy trials and trails, maybe)

Kai & Paul
and the two pug girls
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Old 03-31-2018, 10:14 PM   #7
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Name: Peter
Trailer: G30 Elite Class C
British Columbia
Posts: 1,276
Quote:
Originally Posted by cactus-terry View Post
After searching and being continually late trying to get a Scamp for about 6 months, I finally was able to buy a 1989 Scamp 16 #4. Iím retired and was looking forward to many days boon docking in Arizona and the SW.
The PO said he placed a plate over the flooring to further protect the floor under the rear table. Sounded reasonable. After I purchased it in Texas and returned to Arizona, I decided to remove the micro wave and the fridge from the cabinet next to the side door for more storage. What I found was mold and then after removing the wooden plate under the bottom shelf, I saw daylight, and the road beneath the RV. About a 4 x 7 inch hole. There was a metal plate with undercoating so I couldnít see in on inspection.
After flushing the water tanks I noticed the water leaking from the floor under the RV. So I removed both rear seats and the table. Then I removed the metal plate and no wonder the PO placed a metal plate on it. The floor is so rotted, I about fell through.
I feel I bought a lemon. There are other issues, but Iíll not mention them right now.

So my question, how can I replace the flooring on the drivers side and also in the rear below the seats and the table? I live in a 55+ community so I cannot do a cabin off frame removal.

Anyone in the Mesa/ Phoenix area solved this problem? Anywhere actually.
:you got any friends where you can put the trailer and work on it so you can then enjoy those planned trips you want to make.,
Stude
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Old 04-01-2018, 04:31 AM   #8
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Name: Terrill
Trailer: SCAMP
AZ
Posts: 8
Hi all, and I'm trying to answer your replies at once. But this Easter weekend is very busy, so this 71 YO is a little late with replies.
I am doing an inspection of the frame, as it had been repainted, and I was hoping this meant regular maintenance to restrict rust, not covering up rust.

I'm going over some options you've mentioned and will reply soon.
I thank you all in advance for your replies.
Terry
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Old 04-01-2018, 10:25 AM   #9
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Name: Vivienne
Trailer: Sun Trek 1998 "Wannabe"
Michigan
Posts: 46
Scamp Issues

In my searching for a reliable RV I have read sales brochures from 3 different American made campers.

Being in the Upper Peninsula of Mi, we know winter, salt, rust, potholes.
Scamp is low on my list, heard too much on this site and here from two owners locally on the rust/cracking issue. One would think that a Minnesota manufacturer would have a better product due to our weather issues.

I have been bent on finding a used Casita, maybe keeping on that track is prudent.

My BIL is checking out a Casita today even as we speak. I want to hedge all bets that I can.
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Old 04-01-2018, 11:05 AM   #10
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Name: Terrill
Trailer: SCAMP
AZ
Posts: 8
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ladyofthelakes View Post
In my searching for a reliable RV I have read sales brochures from 3 different American made campers.

Being in the Upper Peninsula of Mi, we know winter, salt, rust, potholes.
Scamp is low on my list, heard too much on this site and here from two owners locally on the rust/cracking issue. One would think that a Minnesota manufacturer would have a better product due to our weather issues.

I have been bent on finding a used Casita, maybe keeping on that track is prudent.

My BIL is checking out a Casita today even as we speak. I want to hedge all bets that I can.
Hi Ladyofthe lakes,
I too looked at various eggs, and the only one that satisfied my height requirement, 6'1" was the Scamp. There are a lot of really nice Fiberglass eggs, but I think I just happened to have found more of a project than a ready-to-go-camping rv. Good luck on your search and happy camping.
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Old 04-01-2018, 11:09 AM   #11
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Name: Terrill
Trailer: SCAMP
AZ
Posts: 8
Quote:
Originally Posted by stude View Post
:you got any friends where you can put the trailer and work on it so you can then enjoy those planned trips you want to make.,
Stude
Hi Stude, Most of my friends are in the situation as I, 55+ community. I have a 72 hour window for having this in my driveway, so I'll have to plan my repairs accordingly. Plus we, I, will have HOA noise levels to contend with as well. Thanks for your reply however.
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Old 04-01-2018, 11:20 AM   #12
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Name: Dave & Paula Brown
Trailer: Lil Snoozy
Arizona
Posts: 1,903
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I had a Scamp that had developed a frame crack, but it was over 15 years old, and probably my fault, as I used to level it (not just stabilize it) with the stabilizing jacks mounted on the rear bumper, and have six people in for visiting etc. After the frame repair I added lifting scissor jacks to the frame right after the axle, and still used the stabilizer jacks to keep the trailer stable.
The only trailers that I know of that would be resistant to rusting would be an Oliver with itís aluminum frame, or the Lil Snoozy with itís galvanized frame. You can add rust inhibiting products to any frames used, so you donít have to rule out Scamp, as it is no different then a Casita or most others.
Dave & Paula
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Old 04-01-2018, 11:40 AM   #13
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Name: Terrill
Trailer: SCAMP
AZ
Posts: 8
Hi Kevin. I've pulled the tank and it is good and original. There is new water hosing throughout, so I suspect PO took care of at least one of the water leaks problems. The water heater, AC only, looks horrible, so it may have to go if I can get a 15 inch diameter container out a 12 inch cabinet door opening. LOL. The air release hose didn't protrude entirely below the bottom of the trailer, so any water splashing around could have leaked onto the flooring. As did the manual drain hose for the water tank. The dance floor area of rot is primarily in the middle, but does extend to the curb side. I would expect this to come from the ceiling area. I removed the massive AC unit and suspect this was at least a partial source of the leak. Bowed roof line and fair, but not great, sealant around the AC is also a potential leak.

Hi Jon, and thanks for the info. A senior moment, the msg should have said curb side, not drivers side. I hadn't planned on a project, but I have one now. I inspected the frame, but it had been repainted. (Upkeep maintenance?). I'll chip away at it where you mentioned, before I really dig into this, project, however.

And Hi Eddie, when you said 'The scamp upper floor consist of four sections', are you referring to the rear dance floor or the entire RV floor, front to back? It appears the entire dance floor will need replacing. I can visualize 3 sections on the dance floor, 1 on each side and one in the middle. Are there 2 sections in the middle? 4 sections would ease the lap joinery process in replacement.

While pulling away the rat fur from the edges of the walls on the bottom next to the floor edges to see how it was attached, I found hidden electrical wiring. (factory installed), so I need to be careful on cutting this away. The water lines were not behind the rat fur, but secured to the top of the wood flooring. So my question is 'Do I manually pull RF away all the way around the dance floor to remove the floor? Or do I cut/trim the RF with a carpet knife? Or a Rotorazer kind of saw as advertised on TV. Or does the wood flooring not go that far‘. I'm assuming the RF and the wood flooring are fiber glassed together. I’m still searching for pictures of the Scamp frame without the floor in past forum post. That’ll be a Godsend.

I'm now noticing a lingering odor now that I've exposed the flooring. I'm hoping this is just the rotting wood and not mold.

And thanks Dave for the phone call. It was encouraging and informative.

To the moderators, should I continue this posting on my ‘Hi I am... ‘ community forum, or should I start a new post? I’m not sure where my post go when I reply or enter something like this post. I think this will go onto the ‘QUOTE’ link, while a ‘Quick Reply’, or 'Post Quick Reply' is attached to the end of all postings.

I thank you in advance.
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Old 04-01-2018, 11:47 AM   #14
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Name: Terrill
Trailer: SCAMP
AZ
Posts: 8
Quote:
Originally Posted by David B. View Post
I had a Scamp that had developed a frame crack, but it was over 15 years old, and probably my fault, as I used to level it (not just stabilize it) with the stabilizing jacks mounted on the rear bumper, and have six people in for visiting etc. After the frame repair I added lifting scissor jacks to the frame right after the axle, and still used the stabilizer jacks to keep the trailer stable.
The only trailers that I know of that would be resistant to rusting would be an Oliver with itís aluminum frame, or the Lil Snoozy with itís galvanized frame. You can add rust inhibiting products to any frames used, so you donít have to rule out Scamp, as it is no different then a Casita or most others.
Dave & Paula
I'll probably have to do an elbow grease wire brush inspection in the critical areas, before I continue. Thanks
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