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Old 04-20-2013, 09:02 AM   #43
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I think we have been down this road in the past.

Except for rolled up diapers (infant, not adult size) dumping human waste into trash cans is generally a no-no. That bag of waste can be ruptured by what's dropped in on top of it and the contents then leaks out to the ground where you, me and someones kid(s) walk in it. (Yuk)

Although "Some" baggers use peat-moss or other absorbants to contain the contents, I sill don't think that trash cans or dumpsters are the apprpriate place for human waste. I have seen signs indicating this in a number of Campgrounds.
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Old 04-20-2013, 09:04 AM   #44
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Don't know if I have ever seen an FGRV with a shower and a porta-potty. Unless someone took out the original loo, by the time they get a shower they usually have on board black & gray water holding tanks.
I have seen pop-up tent trailers with showers and cassette loo's though.
Don't most of the Park-liners come with showers and porta potties?
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Old 04-20-2013, 10:08 AM   #45
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I don't know about "Most" Parkliners. The one I looked at had a SeaLand loo and a holding tank. But I see that it is an option and the porta potty is standard.
Funny thing though, the shower is standard, but a water heater is an option.....
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Old 04-21-2013, 12:55 PM   #46
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I don't know about "Most" Parkliners. The one I looked at had a SeaLand loo and a holding tank. But I see that it is an option and the porta potty is standard.
Funny thing though, the shower is standard, but a water heater is an option.....
Mmmmm.... cold shower! How invigorating.
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Old 04-29-2013, 12:16 AM   #47
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Welcome Mitchell.
Welcome to FGRV.
I found this thread after sending you a PM about the Garage door. Is your garage wood framed with a brick veneer? I'm raising my door from 7' to 8' or maybe a bit more. Depending on how your loft is configured you might be able to go with either a high lift or roll up door to keep your loft. One factor might be your roof. I'm replacing my wood framed loft with warehouse racking for a variety of reasons. I see you are in Toronto, maybe we can get together.
I don't know what your washroom needs are but for the most part we get away with a "yellow water" bottle at night and walk to the facilities for the uhm ... loads. Some use Wag Bags. You can search for a number of threads on both.
Roy
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Old 04-29-2013, 02:16 AM   #48
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garage

My garage is 100% brick except for the roof. That's what I want to do is raise opening from 7 to 8 feet. I would have to place the metal lentil higher. I have to decide how many rows of bricks to remove. The whole garage is block with regular bricks. But the front of garage is just regular bricks. I can remove 5 rows of bricks for extra 11" or better still I prefer to remove 6 rows of brick for 13.75" more. That with 84" gives me 97.75". That should be enough so I don't have to play games with golf cart wheels or deflating tires. I want to retain the loft because it is a good place for storage.

I prefer to get a egg that has shower and toilet. I have many projects to do at home 1st before I can get an egg. But I can at least decide on what to buy when ready.
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Old 04-29-2013, 10:40 AM   #49
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... The whole garage is block with regular bricks. But the front of garage is just regular bricks. I can remove 5 rows of bricks for extra 11" or better still I prefer to remove 6 rows of brick for 13.75" more.
Boy, you must have skinny bricks. I get those #'s with 4 and 5 rows respectfully.

That indicates your front (door) wall is non load bearing. I am surprised that there is not a wooden substructure on the inside. A facing of a single thickness of bricks on their own is not sturdy at all.
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Old 04-29-2013, 10:07 PM   #50
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Garage door opening

My garage is made from concrete (cinder) blocks with bricks all around. The front of garage does not have blocks, only bricks. The brick size is 4" W by 8" L and is 3.25" thick. These are full size bricks as compared to new homes that use veneer bricks. The whole front of garage is mostly roll up door. It is load bearing because only bricks are above door to roof and at top of door is a lentil (heavy metal L bar to support and stop the bricks from coming down). The only wood is the roof.
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Old 04-30-2013, 01:23 AM   #51
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The brick size is 4" W by 8" L and is 3.25" thick.
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I can remove 5 rows of bricks for extra 11" or better still I prefer to remove 6 rows of brick for 13.75" more.
To me, these numbers don't equate. 5 x 3.25 = 16.25 not 11.
What am I missing?

Which type of roll up door you are speaking of? When I hear roll up I think of the style on the left below:



ENVIROroll is a brand name from:
Roll Up Doors | Davis Roll Up Solutions
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Old 04-30-2013, 02:29 AM   #52
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standard door

Hi
From your pics I have a standard door. Sorry I meant 2.25". The brick is 2.25" but add to that the mortar of 0.5". So that is now 2.75" 4 rows I get 11". I will go for 5 rows for 13.75" I go to 13.25" because I can get a kit (extra rail and new longer chain) to make door open to a standard 8' with a extension (1 foot) of chain for motor. And I see that these opener allow for a max of about 8' 6".

This sounds as clear as mud...sorry.
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Old 04-30-2013, 10:59 PM   #53
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Sounds clear to me now too. You've got skinny bricks and I've got fat ones. I was hoping I could do a high lift of a standard door like you, yet my roof style does not allow it. Currently my "standard" door track is below the loft aka mezzanine. A roll up is my best option to maximize both clearance for the trailer and storage space.
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Old 05-01-2013, 11:07 AM   #54
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Steve, David, and Bob

Re the Parkliner options, we hope to stop into their place in NC on our current holiday next Monday - I'll ask the why the shower is standard but hot water heater not! If you notice on their site their basic egg is pretty basic - guess that's why the price looks pretty cheap until you start adding up all the options you'll need (or want).

Adrian
"still looking but leaning towards an Escape"
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Old 05-01-2013, 12:57 PM   #55
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Could be higher...but

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Originally Posted by Roy in TO View Post
Sounds clear to me now too. You've got skinny bricks and I've got fat ones. I was hoping I could do a high lift of a standard door like you, yet my roof style does not allow it. Currently my "standard" door track is below the loft aka mezzanine. A roll up is my best option to maximize both clearance for the trailer and storage space.
I have a standard door that slides/opens below the loft. Garage door openers come in 7 (standard size I believe), 8 and 10 feet . I seen that I can put in a 8 footer. A 10 footer would just kill my loft to zero and would be forced to go to a door opening to about 9 feet. I prefer/want to have a 8 foot door so I can have a loft for some storage.

I seen some neighbours have a 7 foot door with windows (16-18" high my guess) above the garage door. Wish I had that. It would make the transformation from 7 to 8' a lot easier and cheaper.
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Old 05-01-2013, 01:13 PM   #56
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Cold showers...burrrr.

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Steve, David, and Bob

Re the Parkliner options, we hope to stop into their place in NC on our current holiday next Monday - I'll ask the why the shower is standard but hot water heater not! If you notice on their site their basic egg is pretty basic - guess that's why the price looks pretty cheap until you start adding up all the options you'll need (or want).

Adrian
"still looking but leaning towards an Escape"
No thanks for cold showers. Hot water heater should always come with a shower.. I am a newbie, I seen many layouts and when you add the options it is a extra $2000. Personally I insist on shower and toilet. Prefer to have a furnace with dual propane tanks on cold nights. I want my fridge to run on propane and every thing else that can. Using battery as little as possible. Air conditioning is a luxury unless you have lung/health problems. Air conditioning is nice if you have 120 volt hookup.

Take your time looking as looking costs you nothing.
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