Hi I'm Kathleen - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-26-2013, 11:17 AM   #15
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Name: Kathleen
Trailer: Trying to decide
Minnesota
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Carl- That is a beautiful trailer. I really like the kitchen and the bed area. Any idea on the total weight?

Gene - Great minds think alike. I had emailed Scamp on Saturday to see about setting up a tour shortly. Thank you for the checklist. That will be very helpful. There seem to be a fair number of used Scamps within 200-300 miles. I'm thinking my budget should be able to get me one in pretty good condition. The 13' seem to run anywhere from about $4000 to $7500 depending on the age, condition and features.
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Old 08-26-2013, 11:40 AM   #16
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Trailer: 2013 Lil Snoozy #161 (SOLD)/2010 Tacoma
NE Oklahoma
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Supposedly 1950# dry weight.
But with all the options, I'm sure mine weighs more.
I haven't been to a scale as yet.
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Old 08-26-2013, 11:42 AM   #17
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Name: Debbie
Trailer: Casita
Missouri
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Sharing my camper choice. . .

I opted for a Casita, myself, due to its resaleability, quality, and longevity of the company. I previously had a popup trailer and emptying the porta-potty got old. I went for the 17' and absolutely love my bathroom. When traveling alone, being able to pull in, connect the hookups, go inside my trailer and not come back out until morning is wonderful--and safe. I added an electronic water heater after sale because the wind kept blowing out the pilot light. The inside burners make it possible to cook inside in bad weather. I sleep on a modified side dinette which I use as a sofa during the day and leave my back table set up for company, eating, using the computer, or even watching tv. I also have the option of using the side dinette with the table and having a full bed in the back. In addition, I added a furnace aftermarket. I've had my Casita since 2010 and am more than happy with it. I have not had the need to drive back to Rice, TX to the Casita factory--there are RV service places much nearer for any needs I have experienced. Whatever brand you choose to go with, I'm sure you will enjoy. Best wishes and Happy Camping!
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Old 08-26-2013, 11:50 AM   #18
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Name: Cathy
Trailer: 1973 Love Bug '13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kathleen M View Post
Thank you Kathy for the detailed response. That definitely gives me a lot to think about.

I was looking at used Scamps like this one: 2002 Scamp 13' Custom Deluxe Trailer

I'm guessing this one might need a little work. It has the layout I like though.

fusedlight- I sent you a message. Thanks.
Kathleen,

Looks nice..just a few things that should be considered.

I can't emphasize enough the importance of having someone knowledgeable inspect before you make a purchase.

That trailer could be a good value but many things to investigate before you drive several hours to see it. I would ask for more pics. Lots of pics! There is a lot of fraud so check all your facts...if it sounds too good to be true, it probably is.

Clear title...I think title regs vary from state to state. Make sure you understand the laws in the state where you reside and in the state where you would purchase the trailer.

Weight - Which is the first thing I thought when I saw the wood cabinets. other things can cause additional weight too. One reason (for some of us) that FG trailers are so desirable is their light weight.

The weight... The only way to know the true weight is to have it weighed. There are others here who could tell you other places to do this. We have a rock company near by with a scale. On the tongue of our trailer it says the weight is 930 lbs. That was put on at the factory 40 years ago. Many things have been changed since then.... by putting the beautiful wood cabinets in the prospective camper, the weight has changed. Originally the furniture was mostly fiberglass which weighs much less than wood.

The tow rating on your vehicle includes every single thing that you put in it (Including people and pets!) plus the actual weight of the trailer plus every single thing you put in it as well. pounds add up FAST!

Dont underestimate the expense of what you must do to make it safe and usable for you. SAFETY FIRST!

The trailer axle...there are others better equipped to address this.....I do know that axles have weight ratings. If the modifications added to a trailer + what you carry exceeds the axle rating, the trailer is not safe to pull. I think that axles with higher weight ratings can be installed but I am not certain.

Make sure that there is a place in the cabin to stow the potty. Not much floor space inside, you may not want to lift it to use it (the bucket type wouldn't be as bad to lift).

The condition of the battery.
The exterior can represent the care that the whole camper has received.
Tire condition, sometimes when they sit for a period of time it takes its toll...is there a usable spare.

I think there is a buyers check list in the document center that will be more comprehensive.

We have removed the little dinette that a PO put in the front of our trailer, and installed a sofa sort of thing. I also have back problems, will likely camp alone and want a place to recline inside without getting in bed. Will use the bench to sit with TV tray to eat inside.

we have decided to leave our bed set up, but can access the under storage by moving the matress. Remember there is valuable storage space under those benches. Some people install outside hatches for easier access to those areas.

Lay on the bed, sit in every seat, make sure that furniture is solidly attached and doesn't move more than it should.

DON'T FORGET TO CHECK THE DOOR! Lol

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Old 08-26-2013, 08:22 PM   #19
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Kathleen,

Those of us with the 13 who have no front bath generally would not have one with, and those with the bathroom would not want one without.

We removed the top bunk to make a wider bottom bunk. We are not tall and either of us can sleep on that size area. Talked to my husband once and we both agreed that if we were solo campers we would sleep on the front bunk and leave the dinette for use, him computers/camera work, me doing jig saw puzzles. The dinette should still be put down during travel though to save wear and tear while giggling down the road. Some people leave it up, but I would think that would put strain on the back hinge area.

We will be in site 7 at Taylor's Falls. We have no bath. There should also be a Scamp 13 with front bath. Corky and Darlene do not use their front bath, they just might be happier if they had the no bath model.

do you need a tent for Taylor's Falls? I could bring one for you.

Nancy
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Old 08-27-2013, 09:55 AM   #20
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Name: Kathleen
Trailer: Trying to decide
Minnesota
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Thanks for the offer Nancy. Depending on where my son's move is at, I may do a day trip on Saturday. If he's already in his new place, I could overnight in a tent with the dog.

My older son is autistic and is preparing to move into an apartment with support staff onsite (sort of like assisted living), and that's supposed to hopefully happen before the end of September.

I do like the idea of making the front bed into a permanent bed and leaving the back as the dinette.
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Old 08-27-2013, 11:15 AM   #21
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Name: Tyler
Trailer: 72 Cloud
Wisconsin
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Kathleen, Welcome to the site. Glad to see you are seriously looking to become FGRV owner, I don't think you will regret the decision. I have a 13' Cloud and love it to death, best thing I have ever purchased.
I have used my camper in several different ways and I think they are pretty versatile as long as you have an open mind and are not super picky about certain things. Such as the bathroom, you can solve that issue simply by using a porta potty which is what I do and I think it works great. The nice thing about that is you can slide it out of the way and under the front bunk of most of the 13' campers (unless it is one that actually has a bathroom already in it which would then eliminate the need anyway), I have slept on the bunk bed/couch area in the front of my camper on several occasions and find it very comfortable. If you think this would be enough room you could then leave your table a table all of the time. I have also made my table into the bed in the back and have just left it like that and used my fold up table outside as my eating area.
I think you would find having a two burner stove a nice option especially if you enjoy cooking but a lot of people have solved this problem by just buying a really nice propane stove that can be used inside or outside which then frees up your counter space in your camper when you don't need to be cooking or when you just want to be cooking outside. I too live in the north and have had need of a good furnace. If you purchase a newer camper there is good chance it will come with a furnace, mine is older but did have a furnace in it but I found it wasn't up to par for keeping my camper very warm come November and December so I purchased a Buddy Heater (you can get them at Menards) and it works wonderfully. The nice thing about the buddy heater in my eyes is in the summer when I don't need it I can store it out of the way as they aren't that bulky and the space where you would put a permanent furnace which a lot of the time is under the closet by the door can then be used for storage.
I can't really chime in on the refrigerator as mine came with an ice box and I now use it as a cupboard and bought a good cooler. I would like to have a refrigerator but don't want to cut any more holes in the side of my camper for venting it.
Feel free to contact me if you have any questions at all, I am in the Duluth area so not to far out of the way.
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Old 08-27-2013, 11:38 AM   #22
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Name: Judi
Trailer: 16' scamp standard side diner
Indiana
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Thought I'd jump in here although not sure how old Kathleen's post was. I am pulling a 16' scamp with a 2009 4wd manual trans Forrester and so far it's great. I'm a woman on my own sans dog. I've gotten 21mpg with Subaru tow. So no problems with that year/. model and my -6' weighs a bit more.
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Old 08-27-2013, 11:41 AM   #23
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Trailer: 22' Airstream Formerly 16' Scamp
British Columbia
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Great resource we have here regarding trailer weights is the thread called Trailer Weights in the Real World. Most of the trailers on the list were weighed on arrival at a fiberglass trailer meet loaded up for camping. As the campground has serves it would be a good bet that not many of the trailers were traveling with much if any water in their tanks.
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Old 08-27-2013, 11:49 AM   #24
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Name: Judi
Trailer: 16' scamp standard side diner
Indiana
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Wondering myself if ALL water needs to be dumped before towing or just gray water tank (per scamp video suggestion)?
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Old 08-27-2013, 12:08 PM   #25
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Name: Wayne
Trailer: Nest fan, Airstream Sold
Ontario
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kathleen M View Post
I would feel a bit more comfortable though if I could find something with a tow rating in the 3000 - 3500 range.
There are many vehicles out there with very high tow rating that are actually very poor tow vehicles. In contrast there are many tow vehicles with very low tow ratings that make great tow vehicles.

Realize a vehicle's "tow rating" may or may not have much to do with how well the vehicle can tow a trailer, how long or will last towing a trailer, or how reliable it will be towing a trailer.

Whether your Forester has a 500lb tow rating or a 5,000lb tow rating it has a good reputation from users for the size of trailer you are considering.

Also pay close attention to the way it is connected. The correct hitch and sway control will make all the difference in how well the rig performs as a unit.

Best of luck with your venture. Let us know how it all works out.
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Old 08-27-2013, 12:55 PM   #26
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Name: Kathleen
Trailer: Trying to decide
Minnesota
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Thanks all for the advice so far. I'm feeling better about using the Forester as my TV. For the hitch, am I better to take it in to the dealer to get it installed? Otherwise, I'm sure my brother would have someone he uses (he's a excavating and concrete contractor so he tows equipment a lot, plus their camper).
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Old 08-27-2013, 12:59 PM   #27
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Name: Judi
Trailer: 16' scamp standard side diner
Indiana
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I had my hitch put on by Ziebart. Recommend dealer instead. Forrester was apparently hard to hitch. Took them four hours and had to take it back after first tow to lower bar and raise connector.
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Old 08-27-2013, 01:05 PM   #28
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Name: Glenn ( second 'n' is silent )
Trailer: 2009 Escape 17B '08 RAV4 SPORT V6
British Columbia
Posts: 4,369
Well, the Toyota factory hitch was only class II and cost more than $900.
The dealer brought in an after-market installer ( Hidden Hitch ) and he put in a Class III and installed the Prodigy brake controller, and ran a #10 ground wire for me for $650. The work was done in the Toyota shop.
So, I suggest you shop around.
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