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Old 01-30-2019, 11:34 AM   #41
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Name: Dave
Trailer: 2012 Lil Snoozy w Forester
Illinois
Posts: 54
I’ve been raving with my LilSnoozy for years. I’ve been pulling it with a 4 cyl Forrester over mountains for years. I suggest checking it out
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Old 01-30-2019, 12:03 PM   #42
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Name: Jack
Trailer: Casita
Washington
Posts: 4
We have a 2007 13' Casita that has a bath and AC which is a terrific light weight trailer running about 1800 lbs empty. Let me know if interested
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Old 01-30-2019, 12:29 PM   #43
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Name: Sherri
Trailer: in the market
TX
Posts: 8
I have a 13 ft Casita

Have you found what you are looking for?
I have a 13 ft Casita I pull with a Hyundai Santa fe.
Due to unfortunate financial conditions I am considering selling it. 2010 with wet bath.
I still have 5 years before I can go fulltime.
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Old 01-30-2019, 12:55 PM   #44
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Name: Carl
Trailer: LiL Hauley
Syracuse, NY
Posts: 656
Amber,


The way to approach this adventure is to spend time surfing, inspecting, etc. to find the trailer that meets your requirements.


1. THEN buy a tow vehicle with some reserve capacity. Don't buy a 2500 pound loaded trailer then buy a tow vehicle (TV) with a 2500 pound tow capacity. Try to have a 30% margin or more if you can. You can adjust this value as you see fit. You want the TV to be in charge not the trailer.



2. Remember there are also hills in this country, and you will have to climb and descend them, so make sure you have enough engine for the job and brakes on the trailer.


3. Get a TV with a factory tow package. Some trailers have weight distribution hitches which puts stress on the TV frame, make sure the TV can handle it.


I am biased towards a Lil Snoozy. I recently purchased a shell, probably the most advanced in the industry, and am outfitting it myself. Not a project for the fainthearted! It requires no weight distribution hitch, surge brakes, simple to couple up to, is very aerodynamic, and stable towing. They only build about 40 a year and have very long lead times.


Good luck
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Your heirs will inherit money and stuff when you are gone. You can only save or spend money, but you can do things with stuff, so they are going to inherit stuff!
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Old 01-30-2019, 02:40 PM   #45
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Name: John
Trailer: Oliver Legacy Elite II
Hawaii
Posts: 84
@Amber:
Welcome to the forum!

I've been towing for over 50 years and have seen many accidents that involved Tow Vehicles (TV) that were not suited to tow the trailer they were asked to tow. Each of the above posts relay good information, but without having tow experience it may be difficult to really understand what is being conveyed.

Bottom line is that your TV must have both the power, weight, chassis (Frame, tires, wheel base, etc) and very importantly the stopping power to deal with conditions unique to towing.

POWER: If your TV is under-powered, you will quickly grow to dislike hills and hate mountains. More importantly, you will destroy your vehicle's power trane in short order usually due to overheating.

WEIGHT: If your TV is too light, it is MUCH easier for your trailer to take control of your life. Often ending up in a tragic accident. You need the weight of your TV to help keep your rig going in the proper direction every time a truck passes you or a wind gust broadsides your rig.

CHASSIS: If your TV is not designed for the load your are trying to pull, then you will find yourself on the side of the highway a lot. Problems will be with blown shocks, rear wheel bearings, leaf/coil springs, and front end components. Most often will be with tires that all of a sudden catastrophically fail. Failure of chassis components almost always leads to a "Hair Raising Ride".

BRAKES: The brakes on overloaded TV's will first talk to you by shaking the steering wheel when applied. This is from being overheated and the result is warping of the rotors/drums. I am sure you have smelled the acrid smell of overheated brakes from a vehicle ahead of you on a down mountain run. Most parking brakes will pretty much be useless when you lose brakes on a down hill run with an over loaded TV.

For your vehicle, I would not recommend much more than a trailer of 1,000 pounds. This will leave you with some capability for a driver and a passenger and some gear as well. With this load limit recommendation, a small pop-up camper would likely be your best choice.

In summary, as a rule of thumb, for your safety, and of those with you or around you, please do not exceed the 50% to 70% rating recommended above. As a first time TV/Trailer owner, personally I recommend that you not go over 60% of the max for your TV max rating.

We all wish you well.
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Old 01-30-2019, 04:32 PM   #46
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Name: Larry
Trailer: Casita
Oklahoma
Posts: 27
As "Mary and Bob" mentioned, you may consider a van as a compromise for purchasing a vehicle plus a trailer. There are lots of options with the Ram Promaster or Sprinter vans with room for bed, galley, bath, and workspace as illustrated by the many class B campers being built. Also preowned class B campers are available on good ole' Ford and Chevy chassis's.
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Old 01-30-2019, 06:00 PM   #47
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Trailer: Miti Lite 1987
Posts: 86
Definately check out Mity-Lite as seen in our archives. 1000lbs and easily towed with normally aspirated 2003 Subaru AWD Forester 2.5. We added heavy duty front brake pads along with drilled and slotted brake dics to aid stopping power for those long steep downhills comming out of the mountains in California and Montana. We'd part with our 1987 for $11,000. We are moving on to one of those overweight gas guzzling class B travel vans from the late 90's thru 2006 .......probably a big mistake.
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Old 01-30-2019, 06:32 PM   #48
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Name: Stephen
Trailer: Casita
Tennessee
Posts: 220
Amber,

The decision you make between 3-4 season is the most important for long term comfort and viability. If you don't mind being barred from the northern half of the country for 3 months out of the year then also consider there are cold snaps and heat spells everywhere. Are you willing to suffer through them or would you like to be comfortable and not have to worry about extremes?

While the vast majority of manufacturers limit themselves to 3 season units, a few specialty manufacturers do produce more robust 4 season offerings. In the small trailer category a worthy contender for your consideration is:
http://gobecampers.com/
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Old 01-30-2019, 09:11 PM   #49
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Name: Keith
Trailer: 2016 Casita Freedom Deluxe
New York
Posts: 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve L. View Post
My inclination is to be conservative.
No pile on. I agree 100% Tow any trailer that weighs the maximum allow rating for any vehicle and that vehicle will not last. So If you like repairs and break downs...

My '17 Ridgeline is rated at 5000lb towing. I am about 3000-3200 with my 17' Casita. That is perfect for a long lasting tow vehicle.
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Old 01-30-2019, 09:14 PM   #50
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Name: Keith
Trailer: 2016 Casita Freedom Deluxe
New York
Posts: 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by amberbradberry View Post
Thanks Dave, Glad I posted here, I may need to upgrade my tow vehicle, will bring to my mechanic and get advise. Don't think I want to live full time in a smaller trailer.
no need for a mechanic. Those on the road with the trailer and tow vehicle will not lie about what is needed. You need a smaller trailer, or bigger tow vehicle.
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Old 01-31-2019, 12:12 AM   #51
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Name: Kim
Trailer: Shopping
Texas
Posts: 3
17 Ft Casita Liberty 4 Sale

2004 Liberty model, always stored under cover, very well maintained, very clean. Has almost every factory option, including awning. New tires plus 2 new spares July 2018. Includes Teconsha brake controller. Email me at kimbo2@yahoo.com if interested. (Jan 31, 2019 )
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