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Old 10-27-2016, 05:48 AM   #15
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Name: Janice & Rick
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Thanks again, Dave. One more question! Can this repair be done without the body being removed from the frame? I am determined to have our trailer in good shape and safe - trying to get most things done for next summer.
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Old 10-27-2016, 03:34 PM   #16
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Can this repair be done without the body being removed from the frame?
Janice 'n Rick: Merely replacing the axle does not require removing the Boler shell from the trailer frame. However, we decided to sand-blast the frame, attach four 'angle iron' pieces for additional bolted support, and have the entire frame structure repainted, before remounting the shell. Others, have also welded in additional cross braces or reinforcing plates. If you are intending to remove the shell, in the future, perhaps removal, at this time, facilitates other renovations: perhaps rewiring, plumbing, or gas-lines ? - - - (just my '2-cents' worth, for consideration, IMHO !)
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Old 10-28-2016, 05:21 AM   #17
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Annnnnnd, one more thing!! I read somewhere on this forum it is important to place the jack in a specific area on the frame so as not to damage it?

Thank you for all this info!
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Old 10-28-2016, 07:12 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by JRTrillium View Post
Annnnnnd, one more thing!! I read somewhere on this forum it is important to place the jack in a specific area on the frame so as not to damage it?
You don't want to jack from the corners. That puts a lot of twisting force on the frame which, in most eggs, is lightweight and not very rigid.

Best practice is to jack on the main frame rail behind the wheel and as close to the axle as practical.

I'd venture to say that goes for any travel trailer. Even those with stouter frames are designed to carry 90% of their weight going down the road on the center of the frame where the axle(s) are attached. Of course, consult the owner's manual if you have one.
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