New 2012 Scamp 13' owner - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 11-02-2011, 12:26 AM   #15
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Name: John
Trailer: 13' 2012 Scamp
Wisconsin
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Thanks Adrian!

Why are you concerned about not getting the toilet wet during a shower? We thought one of the advantages of the shower was the easy spray down cleaning of the entire toilet, figuring any extra would just run down the sides and into the drain area. Is there some potential problem I'm naive to in this area?

Dang - I meant to ask for a scrap of carpet at the factory for your shower floor and forgot amongst all my other reminder notes. We bought a little step stool and set that on top of one of those non-slip rubbery things you put under rugs. Makes a firm standing point, but it is a little small. I like your solution and will have to make something like that over winter.
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Old 11-02-2011, 12:35 AM   #16
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Trailer: 13' 2012 Scamp
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Originally Posted by floyd View Post
Here is our solution for longer slinky storage...The end plugs were the most expensive part at $5 a piece....
What is that? It looks fancier than just a vinyl fence post w/ a couple of large hose clamps? Is that custom welded onto the existing bumper?

I'm going to try this container before pursuing heavier mods. The dimensions fit easily through the lower closet door in the front by the bathroom.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00..._ya_os_product
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Old 11-02-2011, 07:36 AM   #17
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Name: Norm and Ginny
Trailer: Scamp 16
Florida
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Sewer Hose Container

This is our sewer hose container. It's a light, white plastic, 5x5" inch post liner available at Lowes or Home Depot and probably most lumber yards or plastic fence distributors.

We screwed the Post to the existing Bumper. Neither the sewer hose or post liner are heavy. The dimensions of the post liner is adequate to hold the sewer hose's rubber donut as well.

My memory says the liner was about $20. The plastic end caps were extra. The caps are held on by a screw (not too clever) and a bungee cord in case I lose the screw.

We now have about 1000 miles on the setup without any issues.

Unfortunately these are not the best pictures; they were not take to highlight the sewer pipe holder. It is the white box under the bumper box.
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Rear Bumper Storage.jpg   Rear Bumper 3.jpg  

Clothes Line Storage.jpg  
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Old 11-02-2011, 09:55 AM   #18
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Trailer: 2004 13 ft Scamp Custom Deluxe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnF View Post
What is that? It looks fancier than just a vinyl fence post w/ a couple of large hose clamps? Is that custom welded onto the existing bumper?

I'm going to try this container before pursuing heavier mods. The dimensions fit easily through the lower closet door in the front by the bathroom.
Amazon.com: CHARCOAL DISPENSER [Misc.]: Home & Garden
I went to the scrap yard and bought a length of thin guage square steel tubing, which was the appropriate size for the standard RV bumper plugs. Then I placed it against the bumper aligned with the top and welded it in place.
The top is covered with rubber runner from the hardware store and the bumperguards were fabbed from a piece of unistrut along with the feet from an old weight bench.
I felt that there should be a bumper which extended at least beyond the spare tire to protect against some minor impact.
If you look at the orientation of the plastic fence post approach that Norm and Ginny have above, it is the same location as my bumper.
That's a stick-on reflector below, not a light.
Don't forget to click on the pictures for a better view.
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Old 11-02-2011, 01:18 PM   #19
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Name: Adrian
Trailer: Lance 1985~'Casita de Campo' ~23' 4"~Dinette Slide Previously: Scamp 16 ft Side Dinette, Front Bath
New Mexico
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnF View Post
Why are you concerned about not getting the toilet wet during a shower? We thought one of the advantages of the shower was the easy spray down cleaning of the entire toilet, figuring any extra would just run down the sides and into the drain area. Is there some potential problem I'm naive to in this area?
For the small size, if wanting to get it keep dry after showering, the area is pretty large with a lot of nooks & crannies as well as water lines & vent tubes (at least in ours & I assume in yours) with a lot of hard to get to spots behind & to the sides of the toilet. Why would we want to have to wipe down more area. We do not like to just let it stay wet & air dry (even here in super dry New Mexico). The top of the tank which the toilet sets upon is very flat, not much change for all the water into the drain area. We are use to hard water as well, which doesn't do well air drying (leaves spots).

We do it to save on labor. Besides the TP is behind the toilet in a open container & it stays dry as can be, protected by the extended shower curtain. As well as cleaning supplies for the toilet.

"Potential problem", might be mold, or soap scum build up.....hadn't given it much thought....didn't want the added labor. Much easier to wipe off the curtain. Mold isn't as large a concern in our lack of humidity, but in a tight trailer it could happen, even out here. And we often travel to other areas with the Scamp.

My son has a cloth shower curtain in his Lance TC, which seems to dry very quickly. We have a 'plastic' curtain which has to be wiped down. May try going with a cloth one next.....much lighter weight...dry fast...no need to be wipe it dry, I assume. Need to ask him if they wipe the curtain. We have used one of those synthetic shames use to dry autos, it works well.

With not having matching carpet for the shower subfloor, you can add 'a touch of colour' to the bath area.

Another mod, we added, a Corian Stove top cover which gives some working space in the kitchen. We had a piece of Corian left after having a counter top put in our home. I cut it to size & had a high school shop router the edges. Works well. But do not travel with it on the stove top. Toss it on the bed.


Floyd, are the stabilizers jack standard equipment or they a mod? Ours are the tug & pull, flop & drop style. I like the look of yours.

I see JohnF's new Scamp has the same ones as ours have.

The Bal-jacks I welded onto the front for stablization, were a good price, but are really over kill for a Scamp.

But work very well.
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Old 11-02-2011, 04:47 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adrian W View Post
For the small size, if wanting to get it keep dry after showering, the area is pretty large with a lot of nooks & crannies as well as water lines & vent tubes (at least in ours & I assume in yours) with a lot of hard to get to spots behind & to the sides of the toilet. Why would we want to have to wipe down more area. We do not like to just let it stay wet & air dry (even here in super dry New Mexico). The top of the tank which the toilet sets upon is very flat, not much change for all the water into the drain area. We are use to hard water as well, which doesn't do well air drying (leaves spots).

We do it to save on labor. Besides the TP is behind the toilet in a open container & it stays dry as can be, protected by the extended shower curtain. As well as cleaning supplies for the toilet.

"Potential problem", might be mold, or soap scum build up.....hadn't given it much thought....didn't want the added labor. Much easier to wipe off the curtain. Mold isn't as large a concern in our lack of humidity, but in a tight trailer it could happen, even out here. And we often travel to other areas with the Scamp.

My son has a cloth shower curtain in his Lance TC, which seems to dry very quickly. We have a 'plastic' curtain which has to be wiped down. May try going with a cloth one next.....much lighter weight...dry fast...no need to be wipe it dry, I assume. Need to ask him if they wipe the curtain. We have used one of those synthetic shames use to dry autos, it works well.

With not having matching carpet for the shower subfloor, you can add 'a touch of colour' to the bath area.

Another mod, we added, a Corian Stove top cover which gives some working space in the kitchen. We had a piece of Corian left after having a counter top put in our home. I cut it to size & had a high school shop router the edges. Works well. But do not travel with it on the stove top. Toss it on the bed.
But work very well.
The Bal stabilizers on my camper are a modification which I installed...LOVE'EM
look here and be sure and read my review...

BAL Deluxe Telescopic Stabilizing Jacks - JCWhitney


We have used our shower for 7-1/2 years now(500+ showers) with no difficulty and without trying to shield the toilet.It is easily made dry and ready to use just minutes after a shower. We also made our shower curtain from 1/2 of a clear curtain attached to a cafe rod with stainless key rings, this really increases the space and prevents "shower curtain cling".
Also we found that the use of an empty "wipe&dipe" container works great to keep the TP dry.... Simply remove the core from the role and insert the TP into the can. Then dispense it through the top of the can from the center of the role!
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Old 11-02-2011, 06:04 PM   #21
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Name: John
Trailer: 13' 2012 Scamp
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Love that solution for the toilet paper - will have to try that!

Currently have a dual suction cup mounted toiletries basket with the roll just sort of resting across the top. The basket works great (hasn't fallen down yet even after driving), but the roll takes up a lot of space.

I'll get some pictures of the complete interior with a few of my mods this weekend when it is sunnier (currently pouring rain and dark by the time I get home after work).

Hunted around a lot for a suitable mirror for the bathroom door; went with one of those 12" square mirror tiles from Home Depot mounted with edge clips. Looks pretty clean, but tricky to get mounted straight and solid; took me awhile last night.

The stock shower curtain "rod" out of plastic pipe is hard to use. I swapped the cheapo stock curtain rod hangars to the ones with nice little balls/rollers on them for easier sliding, but the true problem is the diameter of the pipe is just too big for standard curtain rod hangars. I'm going to swap that out tonight for a smaller diameter.

The amber LED exterior porch light works great in the driveway. Just enough light to easily find the trailer door at night. Can't really test the bug-proof ness of the amber vs. bright white this time of year, but I'm hopeful this avoids gathering a mosquito swarm which then follows you right into the trailer at night.

The green cushions are growing on me the more time I spend out there in the driveway.
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Old 11-02-2011, 06:08 PM   #22
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How do the Bal-Jacks on the front tongue help things?

The standard tongue jack seems like it would work just as well to me. Is this just an issue of having 2 stabilizing points in the front of the trailer vs. 1 so that it eliminates potential side to side motion in the front?

Are the Bal-Jacks individually controllable for height? Looks like they are uniform in your picture or is that just the picture angle?
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Old 11-02-2011, 08:20 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnF View Post
Love that solution for the toilet paper - will have to try that!

Currently have a dual suction cup mounted toiletries basket with the roll just sort of resting across the top. The basket works great (hasn't fallen down yet even after driving), but the roll takes up a lot of space.

I'll get some pictures of the complete interior with a few of my mods this weekend when it is sunnier (currently pouring rain and dark by the time I get home after work).

Hunted around a lot for a suitable mirror for the bathroom door; went with one of those 12" square mirror tiles from Home Depot mounted with edge clips. Looks pretty clean, but tricky to get mounted straight and solid; took me awhile last night.

The stock shower curtain "rod" out of plastic pipe is hard to use. I swapped the cheapo stock curtain rod hangars to the ones with nice little balls/rollers on them for easier sliding, but the true problem is the diameter of the pipe is just too big for standard curtain rod hangars. I'm going to swap that out tonight for a smaller diameter.

The amber LED exterior porch light works great in the driveway. Just enough light to easily find the trailer door at night. Can't really test the bug-proof ness of the amber vs. bright white this time of year, but I'm hopeful this avoids gathering a mosquito swarm which then follows you right into the trailer at night.

The green cushions are growing on me the more time I spend out there in the driveway.
We found this mirror at Walmart it has an oak frame which is mounted through the door with screws and snap caps...
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Old 11-02-2011, 08:46 PM   #24
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Trailer: 2012 Scamp 13 DLX
Florida
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Floyd, I love seeing pix of the inside of your little egg. It looks so cozy and homey. The wood really gives it such a warm feel.
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Old 11-02-2011, 09:34 PM   #25
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Floyd, I love seeing pix of the inside of your little egg. It looks so cozy and homey. The wood really gives it such a warm feel.
Your kind words are appreciated, thank you
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Old 11-02-2011, 09:43 PM   #26
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Name: Adrian
Trailer: Lance 1985~'Casita de Campo' ~23' 4"~Dinette Slide Previously: Scamp 16 ft Side Dinette, Front Bath
New Mexico
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnF View Post
How do the Bal-Jacks on the front tongue help things?
Yes.

The standard tongue jack seems like it would work just as well to me. Is this just an issue of having 2 stabilizing points in the front of the trailer vs. 1 so that it eliminates potential side to side motion in the front?
Yes. But seems to help with front to back movement as well.

Are the Bal-Jacks individually controllable for height? Looks like they are uniform in your picture or is that just the picture angle? Yes, on what I have. Our parking spot is pretty level.
Makes the 16' Rock Solid without any Rock n' Roll. But perhaps less of a need for a 13'. Not really a need in the 16', more a want to have.
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Old 11-03-2011, 03:15 AM   #27
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Trailer: 2009 Trillium 1300 "Homelet"/2014 Subaru Outback "Rosie"
Washington
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Cool Water Carrying

Our Trill has a 12 Gallon fresh water tank under the rear dinette which we have used once.* We have used the shore utility water more often then that, but now we carry drinking water from home in two one gallon jugs. Never felt the need to lug around water at 8 lbs/gal. So we lug 16 lbs instead of 80+lbs.

Water for the porta potti is gotten from where we camp with a 1/2 gal juice jug which stores nicely under the seat by the door with the pp.

When we want to wash dishes, we use potable water from our campsite. I fetch it with my biggest pot, heat it on the stove, pour some into the sink with detergent, and use the pot for rinsing. Since we aren't drinking it, the taste/salt content doesn't matter. When we need more drinking water, we go to a filtered water dispenser for about 15-25 per gal.

Our gray water tank is a five gallon bucket with a lid and a hole drilled in the top to accept an old hose from an automatic washing machine with one fitting cut off. I just empty that into any convenient toilet like the porta potti, although I have poured both down a sewer fitting at campsites that have them. For some reasons some campsites frown on pouring into their toilets. I am always very careful not to spill, but I guess they don't know that.

*Actually, there is a gallon of RV antifreeze in the water tank. I could probably drain that out now.
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Old 11-03-2011, 11:04 PM   #28
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Congratulations John, she looks great!
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